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Thread: Replace fuel filter now no start

  1. #1
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    Default Replace fuel filter now no start

    Our '02 2500HD started surging a bit at idle, and taking just a bit more time to start. Nothing bad, but it's one of those 'hmm, that took two more turns of the crank than usual' sort of thing. Based on searches here, the place to start was a new fuel filter. It had been a while, so I figured why not? Got the filter, WIF eliminator kit and aluminum bleeder cap from KD, and finally got time to work on it. What a PITA. I now remember why I don't like doing these things! I seem to remember going in over the fender with the last change. This time, I had to pull the inner fender liner, as I was just about to drive a screwdriver into the filter just as my wife managed to pop it loose.

    New filter on, and started pumping the primer. I probably pumped the thing 10+ minutes, in 95-degree heat, I might add. Never saw fuel in the bleeder hole. I had my wife turn the key on a couple of times, to see if we could get some help from the pump, but nothing. After another 5, or so minutes of pumping, I had her start the truck. Started, ran for 15 seconds, then died. Opened the bleeder screw and still no fuel. I then remembered that the WIF eliminator had a drain on it. Opened it and... nothing. I'm not getting ANY fuel in the filter. Reading other similar posts, I removed the fuel cap to make sure no vacuum. Nothing, no sound of sucking air, or anything. With the cap off, I tried pumping again to no avail.

    What's next? I'm at a loss for a solution, other than dropping the tank and checking the fuel pump.
    Gene Beaird
    Pearland, Texas
    '02 2500HD D/A - Race Car hauler

  2. #2
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    Unless you added one, it has NO fuel lift pump, in the tank or elsewhere. The primer pump you were pumping is it until it's running (the high pressure pump draws fuel, all the way from the tank, but will not self-prime).

    It can take 100-200+ primer pump strokes to get fuel after a filter change, and can be worse if the truck is parked nose-uphill (more fuel drains back to the tank), or if it takes a long time during the filter R/R.

    The hand primer pump draws fuel. It isn't positive, and must be able to draw air until fuel is present. They can fail, and not pump at all, but they usually leak and cause other issues long before that. Repair kits are available.

    It sounds like the filter canister isn't sealed. Most often, the large top O-ring gets out of place during installation, which prevents vacuum, and the ability to draw fuel, either with the hand pump or high pressure pump. You'll have to R/R it again, making sure the seal is fully engaged. Other possibilities are, the WIF eliminator isn't sealed, or the center seal is either missing, or the old one wasn't removed (now with 2 of them stacked). Look at the old filter and make sure BOTH top seals came out with the old filter, and the WIF sensor O-ring is in place, tight, and the drain is sealed. When I replace the filter, I pack the large O-ring groove with grease and push the O-ring into it. The grease keeps it in place.

    Another possibility is a cracked fuel filter assy. Some can be repaired (J-B Weld), and some can't, due to the crack location and severity. Replacement assemblies are available, OEM and aftermarket. If you use aftermarket, make sure it has a primer pump, or add an electric lift pump that can be used for priming. Remember, the engine-driven high pressure pump will not prime itself.

    If you are sure everything is sealed up and still not getting it to prime, you can use low-pressure shop air at the fuel filler to push fuel up to the filter. Remove the bleed screw and add air pressure to the tank (about 5 PSI) until fuel is at the bleeder. Close the bleed screw and pump. It should be able to prime high pressure pump, now. Add a primer pump repair kit to your short list.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  3. #3
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    Thank you. Truck is sitting perfectly level. It o-ring for the filter was a bit dodgy, but it looked sealed all the way around. I'll get a light and mirror on it in the morning. The old o-ring is with the old filter. I cleaned the mounting surface after pulling the old filter off, to wipe off any oxidation.

    I used oil for the o-ring, and watched as the filter was lifted into place to make sure it wasn't disturbed, although it was a real PITA to get the filter to start threading onto the housing. I did watch the mounting surface of the filter as it got spun onto the housing to make sure the o-ring wasn't sitting up, or out of place.

    I didn't have this much trouble with the last filter change.
    Gene Beaird
    Pearland, Texas
    '02 2500HD D/A - Race Car hauler

  4. #4
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    First, is this a plastic canister filter? If so, I highly recommend replacing it with the metal filter. Lots of issues with the plastics, sooner or later.

    If it was REALLY hard to start threading, suspect the old inner seal (grommet) may still be on the nipple. When removing the old filter, the seal will sometimes stick onto the nipple. It should remain with the old filter, but they often don't. The filter will spin on with both in place (with difficult threading), but will make it difficult for the outer O-ring to get full engagement and seal.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  5. #5
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    Not really hard, it was just awkward, and I have a bad shoulder, so installing the filter was a one-hand operation, which I couldn't push up and turn at the same time. My wife had to do that job. Once it threaded, it was a breeze to tighten. It's the Baldwin spin on filter that Kennedy Diesel sells.
    Gene Beaird
    Pearland, Texas
    '02 2500HD D/A - Race Car hauler

  6. #6
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    Back to basics, then. Either it isn't sealed (for whatever reason), or the primer pump isn't moving air/fuel. Not discounting other possibilities, the most common issue, by far, is an improperly sealed filter canister.

  7. #7
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    I plan to remove and reinstall the filter today. Thanks.
    Gene Beaird
    Pearland, Texas
    '02 2500HD D/A - Race Car hauler

  8. #8
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    This thing is kicking my butt! After several off and on episodes, I replaced the filter with a WIX and reinstalled the WIF. I figured I'd see if just throwing more parts at it would help. Still could not fill the filter with the priming pump. I could press the plunger down, cover the bleeder hole with my finger, let off, and could feel the vacuum when pulling my finger off the hole.

    Using a vacuum tester, I pulled a vacuum on the filter assembly until I got fuel in the filter (actually got fuel in the tester, but it was VERY old and beat up anyway, I needed to replace it). With that, I could press the priming pump and get fuel in the bleeder hole. So, I capped off the bleeder hole and pumped, and pumped, and pumped. I remember counting at least 500 pumps with the bleeder cap on and the pumping never got hard.

    Frustrated, we tried to start the truck. Nope! So, I started looking for a fuel pump. The FSM says it's mounted on the frame rail, but where? I crawled under the truck, and looked around and there's nothing between the fuel cooler and the engine, but the ABS pump. WTF is the thing? Did GM STILL make a frame-mounted pump that you have to drop the fuel tank to get to?!? Shame on GM if they did.

    I'm seeing nothing in the FSM regarding dropping the fuel tank to R&R the pump, so do not know for certain. Where is the thing, and should I at least hear it spin up with KO if I'm under the truck?!? Thanks.
    Gene Beaird
    Pearland, Texas
    '02 2500HD D/A - Race Car hauler

  9. #9
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    It DOES NOT have an OEM fuel lift pump, electric or otherwise. Some later model van and chassis models have one for priming only, but your LB7 truck does not. Previous 6.5L Diesels had one on the frame rail below the driver's seat. Your FSM is either not for your model and year, or is only suitable for privy duty.

    It sounds like your primer pump has quit. Repair kits are inexpensive and easy to install. A failed pump can also allow air to leak in, causing the high pressure pump to lose prime.

    Once you get the truck primed and running, it will stay that way until enough air leaks in to lose prime. If you can't wait for the primer repair, try using low pressure shop air (~5 PSI) at the fuel filler to push fuel to the HP pump, while someone cranks it. Don't crank more than about 20 seconds before allowing the starter to cool for a few minutes. Once it starts, let it run long enough to clear out any remaining air. As long as you don't open the filter assy to air, it will continue to start and run. If it loses prime again (before repairing the primer pump), suspect an air leak, probably the primer pump.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  10. #10
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    HUH. 2002 Service Manual Silverado/Sierra, page 6-3191 shows a frame-mounted fuel pump fr the 6.6. This FSM seems to be pretty content-free for usable information, though, so I guess it's possible. With the fuel filter full, I'll try the pressurize the tank and crank method.

    This thing has been 100% trouble free until now.
    Gene Beaird
    Pearland, Texas
    '02 2500HD D/A - Race Car hauler

  11. #11
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    Primer pump rebuild kit has been ordered.
    Gene Beaird
    Pearland, Texas
    '02 2500HD D/A - Race Car hauler

  12. #12
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    Were you able to start it, and keep it running? The reason I ask is, if the filter assy has a crack, or is otherwise unable to maintain a vacuum (poor line connection or other damage), the primer condition won't matter. If it loses prime due to the primer, it can be sealed once the engine runs, to eliminate or confirm it. There are simply too many possibilities.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  13. #13
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    I would think pressure in the fuel tank would disclose any fuel leaks.
    "The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government."
    -Patrick Henry


    A5150nut
    2006 K3500 D/A
    94 6.5 4x4 5spd Sold

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by a5150nut View Post
    I would think pressure in the fuel tank would disclose any fuel leaks.
    Probably, maybe. Leaks aren't always 2-way and, depending on the leak, can suck air in and not leak fuel out. A failed primer pump will often show a bit of fuel leakage, but not every time, or immediately.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  15. #15
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    I haven't gotten it started yet. I figured I'd just go ahead and R&R the primer pump, in hopes that I can use it to get the system primed properly. Note that I'm seeing no evidence of any cracks on the filter housing, nor is there any seepage anywhere on it. While depressing the primer pump, I can put a finger on the bleeder hole and feel/hear vacuum when releasing the pump. I would assume that's an indication that the primer is working, but I guess there could be some bypass on the downstroke preventing fuel from being moved downstream of the primer pump. That's just a guess, though.
    Gene Beaird
    Pearland, Texas
    '02 2500HD D/A - Race Car hauler

  16. #16
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    When I have had to prime mine I leave the bleed screw closed while pumping. Once pump starts to get firm I crack the screw and release the air till I get fuel squirting out.
    "The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government."
    -Patrick Henry


    A5150nut
    2006 K3500 D/A
    94 6.5 4x4 5spd Sold

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by a5150nut View Post
    When I have had to prime mine I leave the bleed screw closed while pumping. Once pump starts to get firm I crack the screw and release the air till I get fuel squirting out.
    Normally, that's how it should work. But, that assumes something isn't broken. OP said continued pumping didn't bring up fuel, but he could when using a hand vacuum pump (essentially the same as using the primer pump), then couldn't get the primer pump to push fuel to the HP pump. Something is broken, and I hope it's as simple as the primer pump. It could certainly be something else, but the pump is the most simple and least expensive starting point.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by a5150nut View Post
    When I have had to prime mine I leave the bleed screw closed while pumping. Once pump starts to get firm I crack the screw and release the air till I get fuel squirting out.

    And that's how it worked the last time I did it. Fingers crossed it's just a dead seal in the priming pump. Luckily, it looks like filter assemblies are still available new. Hoping I don't have to go that route.

    Now waiting for the priming pump rebuild kit to arrive.... and my hand to heal some from all the pumping I did to get the thing to prime. 1000-or so pumps, and the hand got tender to the touch.
    Gene Beaird
    Pearland, Texas
    '02 2500HD D/A - Race Car hauler

  19. #19
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    Gene I thought you said you were pumping with screw open. My mmistake.
    "The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government."
    -Patrick Henry


    A5150nut
    2006 K3500 D/A
    94 6.5 4x4 5spd Sold

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by a5150nut View Post
    Gene I thought you said you were pumping with screw open. My mmistake.
    Heh, desperate times call for desperate measures. I tried both. Nothing worked, except pulling a vaccuum on the assembly via the bleeder screw.
    Gene Beaird
    Pearland, Texas
    '02 2500HD D/A - Race Car hauler

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