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Thread: "free" 599

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    Default "free" 599

    Last week i got a free 599 block 6.5 for asking about it laying by the dumpster
    My summers priority has been cleaning out my back yard which used to be the parts yard when i had a mechanic and apprentice working in the shop.Since i have closed the shop and don't have anyone working for me,plus there will be a fee charged before long to dump vehicles at the dump.
    So i set a target goal of ridding myself of 22 vehicles in 2022,#19 is on the hoist.I think i will blow by 22 and end up in the thirties.
    So i decided that i should try and salvage what i could from the 599 block as a change of pace this weekend.
    Was told it was running good when removed,clear water was leaking out as i winched it out of the dirt and onto my rollback.
    I didn't hold out much hope for a good engine,but hopefully a crack free block and maybe a decent crank,besides the injection system.
    The injection system was full of diesel so that was a good sign,no lines got damaged getting it on my deck in a hurry,the guy was locking up.
    A few pic's of what i found.599 b.jpg599c.jpg599d.jpg599.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  2. #2
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    Default

    The chafed oil cooler line may tell the story. It certainly didn't "run" with that.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  3. #3
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    Default

    Haven't made it to the getting the crank out yet...
    A few pictures of what i found once the heads were off
    Will try to free up the pistons somehow to lessen the chances of hurting the crank if it hasn't been run out of oil from the oil line.
    Used a zip wheel to knock off the heavy rust then a wire wheel,with some rust killer sprayed in the holes.
    599 bugger 4.jpg599 bugger 5.jpg599 bugger 3.jpg599 bugger.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
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    12,283

    Default

    A little Orange for sure......DEEP CREEP PENETRANT WILL HELP....

    THEN.... AFTER SOAKING FOR A WEEK....A good solid block of wood and a 5 pound hammer to try and jar the slugs loose...

    Definitely be a .030" overbore or more depending...
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  5. #5
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    Jul 2020
    Location
    Montana
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    Default

    On a positive note, you have at least $100-$200 of good useable parts. The plenums, serpentine set, ip, exhaust manifolds, etc.

  6. #6
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    Yes the positive note...
    Complete fuel injection system with a 4911 pump
    One head with no visible cracks,complete set of precups with no cracks,and exhaust manifolds.No serpentine stuff or top plenum.
    And hopefully a good crank and rods.
    I expected some backlash with my rust removal method with the zip wheel.
    I kept one picture out of the thread but here it is.
    The block is toast.
    The rust probably toasted it as well,not sure if it could have been sleeved for deep rust pits...
    But i doubt it can be sleeved599 bugger 2.jpg for cylinder wall punchout.
    My luck,finally get a 599 block and it's worse than the cracked blocks i already have.
    I plan on a trip to a buddies wrecking yard to see what is laying around there for 6.5 stuff to try and save.
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  7. #7
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    Jul 2020
    Location
    Montana
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Yukon6.2 View Post
    Yes the positive note...
    Complete fuel injection system with a 4911 pump
    One head with no visible cracks,complete set of precups with no cracks,and exhaust manifolds.No serpentine stuff or top plenum.
    And hopefully a good crank and rods.
    I expected some backlash with my rust removal method with the zip wheel.
    I kept one picture out of the thread but here it is.
    The block is toast.
    The rust probably toasted it as well,not sure if it could have been sleeved for deep rust pits...
    But i doubt it can be sleeved599 bugger 2.jpg for cylinder wall punchout.
    My luck,finally get a 599 block and it's worse than the cracked blocks i already have.
    I plan on a trip to a buddies wrecking yard to see what is laying around there for 6.5 stuff to try and save.
    Does that crack extend all the way from one of the webs? I bet it was from a toasted Harmonic Balancer?

  8. #8
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    Apr 2001
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    Newberg Oregon
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    That hole looks pretty sad....Is that a break through the cylinder wall ????
    WATER THAT FROZE OR OTHER ISSUE ????
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2INSANE View Post
    Does that crack extend all the way from one of the webs? I bet it was from a toasted Harmonic Balancer?
    I wouldn't take that bet. Those cracks, if they are cracks, happened long after it quit running. Robyn likely has it right. This was a block, on the ground, in Alaska, full of water, for years. The climate killed it. There's probably not a single crack in any of the webs. Go figure, but that's how luck runs and, what may have been a fine specimen was claimed by nature.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  10. #10
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    Default

    Harmonic balancer is in OK condition.
    I think a cylinder full of water and freezing took it out.
    Hopefully the hole in the oil line dosn't lead to a buggered crank.
    I will be pulling the 94 in the back yard before winter to see if there is anything salvageable from it.I was looking at it for parts in the spring for the Burb,but found water in it at the time.
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  11. #11
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    Dec 2003
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    Yukon Canada
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    After sitting in the shop for the summer it's time to reclaim inside working space.
    I pulled a rod cap and it had a spun bearing.So the hole in what was left of the oil line tells the story on the 599 block
    Is there any reason at all to save the scored crank for a regrind?
    Is anything else worth saving? Anyone need it cut open for ?? any reason before it takes its ride to the scrap pile.
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  12. #12
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    Newberg Oregon
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    If the mainline and cylinders are good....Should be rebuildable
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  13. #13
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    There is a side of a cylinder busted out.
    so is the crank worth keeping if it has spun the bearings?
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  14. #14
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    A door stop.....

    With that kind of damage...Lots of far better iron out there to build on......

    A crank that has already been beat hard.... Phhhhhht waste of time.
    A fresh Scat crank has zero time on it's clock and they are a nice piece....I have used one.....

    A broken block.....Too much work and $$$$ to fool with it.....
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  15. #15
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    I agree. Usually little usefulness other than a doorstop (or boat anchor, ballast, mailbox post, etc.). The OEM cranks are cast iron with a shallow surface hardening treatment. Any physical or heat damage condemns them. If (big if), the crank came through with no more damage that can't be cleaned up with a light polishing, and there's no indication of overheat (color change), it may be useful again. I'm a fan of "experienced" crankshafts, in that, work-hardening and seasoning lends to a solid piece. These cranks do occasionally break, but in my experience, are almost always due to other issues (main web cracks, etc.). There are some that have broken for no reason, with no indication of any previous issues, but the same can be said for any engine design. That said, I know of a bunch of them that have been turned and used with oversize bearings that lived a long life.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

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