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Thread: 6.2 Motor Mounts - Best Choice for Replacement

  1. #1
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    Aug 2021
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    Default 6.2 Motor Mounts - Best Choice for Replacement

    I have done a fair amount of research on motor mounts. The consensus has been that the two best options are (i) the original GM part (GM 22188497) - currently about $100/ea, and (ii) the Energy Suspension polyurethane insert - currently about $46/ea. From what I have read, it sounds like most people believe that the original mounts are durable, will last a fairly long time and transmit less vibration compared to the polyurethane style, and that the Energy Suspension mounts are very durable, will last a very long time and often lead to more vibration.

    Any thoughts/comments on what is the best choice? I certainly appreciate a smooth ride and would prefer less vibration. However, I also appreciate having a long-lasting repair.

    Also, I am still not sure what the correct part number is for my vehicle for the Energy Suspension part. I have gone to their site and have found that when I use my own vehicle info to search for a part, it suggests the Prothane 7507 (for the motor) and Prothane 71604 (for the transmission.) I have also seen the Energy Suspension 3.1152 (for the motor) part suggested for the 6.2 diesel. Can someone confirm what the correct part number is?
    1992 Chevy G20, 6.2 NA

  2. #2
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    CA
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    Your first paragraph is about accurate. While it may seem like a personal preference, keep in mind, more vibration breaks more stuff. If it's a daily driver, it matters. As far as longevity goes, your van is already 30+ years old.

    I agree, that OEM is higher quality and may last longer, aftermarket mounts may last slightly less, at a fraction of the cost. A $50-100 difference for what will likely be the last time you will visit this, on this vehicle, no matter which way you go, may or may not matter.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  3. #3
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    Good points. Yeah, I don't mind spending the extra money in this case if the OEM part is better. I was under the impression that the polyurethane part would outlast the original, but if not, then I am not sure that there is any benefit to the polyurethane part other than it being cheaper (in the short run.) Thank you.
    1992 Chevy G20, 6.2 NA

  4. #4
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    How old are you? (don't answer if you don't want)

    I recall the days, before polyurethane, engine mounts were always a problem in performance rigs. I have some history with the go-fast stuff. In racing boats, it was solid mounts. No isolation. Solid steel or aluminum (or magnesium, if you could afford it), bolted straight from the block to the hull. Street cars and trucks, mounts failed often, so we chained the block to the frame, to limit the torque on the mounts (and boy did they rattle!!). These days, the materials are much improved and last longer. The old-school trade off was horrific vibration, and other stuff breaking at a much higher rate. Not a little thing, but it's annoying to have the rear view mirror just fall off at the way wrong time, or a fiberglass hull crack up at ludicrous speed. Of course, polyurethane isn't quite that bad, but it's much less nice than what the engineers originally intended. Comparing a lifespan of 15 years vs. 20 is a small consideration. I can equate the term polyurethane with "billet", which is nothing more than the latest buzzword. Not necessarily better, just newer.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  5. #5
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    I can't imagine the vibration from a solid mount... I'm 45 years old. Thanks again.
    1992 Chevy G20, 6.2 NA

  6. #6
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    Montana
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    I personally like Offroaddesign’s motor mounts. I’ve installed 3 sets so far and think they are great!

  7. #7
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    2Insane, thank you for the comments! I appreciate it!
    1992 Chevy G20, 6.2 NA

  8. #8
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    I ended up installing the original GM motor mounts. The engine sits perfectly steady during idle, which it didn't before. I have very little vibration inside the van. The new mounts caused the engine to sit about 1/2" higher than the old, saggy mounts. I had wondered why the bottom piece of my fan housing had been damaged from the fan blades...now I know why. It's been a month and I am happy with the repair. Thanks again for the help.
    1992 Chevy G20, 6.2 NA

  9. #9
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    Granby, Missouri, USA
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    Good choice! I've used both OEM rubber and aftermarket Poly mounts on these diesels; I've decided I prefer the OEM rubber mounts due to their lower vibration and longer lifespan. In my experience, the poly mounts don't seem to last that long, so they really don't have any benefit!

    Casey
    1995 K1500 Tahoe 2 door, 6.5LTD, 4L80E, NP241, 3.42's, 285/75R16 BFG K02's; 1997 506 block; Kennedy OPS harness, gauges, Quick Heat plugs, and TD-Max chip; Dtech FSD on FSD Cooler; vacuum pump deleted, HX35 turbo, Turbo Master, 3.5" Kennedy exhaust, F code intake; dual t/stats, HO water pump, Champion radiator; Racor fuel filter

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