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Thread: Best way to approach a 6.2L head replacement & general questions

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2023
    Location
    United States, Oregon
    Posts
    5

    Default Best way to approach a 6.2L head replacement & general questions

    I am getting ready to pull my heads on my 6.2L 1989 K2500. I was wondering if someone with experience had developed a "procedure" for performing this process. The engine is still in the truck, I know with a 6.5L there is a few more things going on - so removing the heads requires removing accessories. What is the best way to tackle a 6.2L head replacement?

    I have some 6.5L spare heads I am hoping to install on my car. Originally I purchased a head gasket for 6.2L heads, should I install a 6.5L head gasket? (I assume 6.5L head gaskets are different just based on the difference of NA vs TC).

    I plan to use some new studs for the install, not ARP brand. I have purchased 8 new glow plugs.

    The person I bought my 6.5L heads suggested I hone the cylinders with the pistons installed and just rotate the engine manually for each cylinder. Has anyone else ever done this? I have mixed feelings about doing, as the process leaves behind debris that has to be cleaned out. I would think it would be difficult to clean the cylinder sufficiently with the engine assembled.

    I am a little short on time but need my truck running. Like most working people I only have the weekends to get everything done.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Granby, Missouri, USA
    Posts
    3,084

    Default

    Welcome!

    First off, I would recommend purchasing this guide:

    https://www.thedieselpage.com/t&rguide.htm

    It has step by step instructions on head replacement, among other repairs, and is very valuable.

    Yes, purchase the FelPro 6.5L head gaskets. They are the latest design and work best on all applications, including 6.2L versions.

    Did you purchase head bolts or studs? The factory style head bolts are TTY (Torque To Yield) and cannot be reused. Studs are popular, but require finnicky install procedures to keep them from leaking coolant. If this simply a stock engine with no huge power upgrades, I would recommend going back with factory style bolts instead of studs.

    I would not hone the cylinders. There is no need to unless you install new piston rings. Like you said, that would just be introducing more contaminants into the engine.

    Casey
    1995 K1500 Tahoe 2 door, 6.5LTD, 4L80E, NP241, 3.42's, 285/75R16 BFG K02's; 1997 506 block; Kennedy OPS harness, gauges, Quick Heat plugs, and TD-Max chip; Dtech FSD on FSD Cooler; vacuum pump deleted, HX35 turbo, Turbo Master, 3.5" Kennedy exhaust, F code intake; dual t/stats, HO water pump, Champion radiator; Racor fuel filter

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Yukon Canada
    Posts
    1,621

    Default

    The heads are heavy...
    I got some pipe that fit the saddles for the rocker arms and drilled holes to match,then used those bolted on as handles.
    He need to be careful installing then heads,so i had them supported of a lift and slowly lowered them in place carefully to not disturb the gaskets
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

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