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Thread: 83 chevy c-10 won't crank

  1. #1
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    Default 83 chevy c-10 won't crank

    I was working on my C-10 and left the key on for a couple of weeks. When I went to start it I realized what I had done. I put the charger on it and let it charge for a couple of days. When I went and tried to start it it wouldn't do anything. It had power to everything else but would not turn over. The weather got bad so had to stop working on it. I'm just wondering first, what is wrong, then what would have happened when the glow plugs kept cycling. The batteries were brand new, so I'm worried about about them also. Does anyone have any ideas where to start? Any help is appreciated. RudyJ

  2. #2
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    If you discharged the batteries flat, they're very likely toast. Leaving the ignition on for a couple weeks will do that. A day or two with new, fully charged batteries will kill them. Charging them may have brought up the surface voltage enough to operate lights and some instrumentation, but they would have no amperage for a glow cycle or cranking. Monitor battery voltage at key-on and a start attempt.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by DmaxMaverick View Post
    If you discharged the batteries flat, they're very likely toast. Leaving the ignition on for a couple weeks will do that. A day or two with new, fully charged batteries will kill them. Charging them may have brought up the surface voltage enough to operate lights and some instrumentation, but they would have no amperage for a glow cycle or cranking. Monitor battery voltage at key-on and a start attempt.
    Thanks for the quick reply DmaxMaerick! I had thought of that just hoping it wasn't the problem. I'm going to try and get them warrantied. Just hope it works out. Thanks for your advice it is appreciated. RudyJ

  4. #4
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    There are new "smart chargers" that have a repair mode on them.
    I have been getting about 50% of the batteries that would not take a full charge to work after a run through the repair mode.
    Something to try if you don't get warranty on them.
    The one i bought is a Norco Genius 10
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yukon6.2 View Post
    There are new "smart chargers" that have a repair mode on them.
    I have been getting about 50% of the batteries that would not take a full charge to work after a run through the repair mode.
    Something to try if you don't get warranty on them.
    The one i bought is a Norco Genius 10
    Thanks for the heads up Yukon! I was able to get the batteries warrantied. When the weather clears I'll get them installed and let you know what happened. RudyJ

  6. #6
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    replaced the batteries, bypassed the neutral safety switch chased down wires, still have the same problem. Wires to solenoid on starter look ok , has power. Wondering where to look next. Any Ides? RudyJ

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by RudyJ View Post
    Wires to solenoid on starter look ok , has power.
    Do you mean the solenoid has power when you turn the key to start? If so, check the big battery cable connection at the starter and the grounds from the battery to the engine. If all is good, sounds like the solenoid or starter are bad.
    The Constitution needs to be re-read, not re-written!

    If you can't handle Dr. Seuss, how will you handle real life?

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  8. #8
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    If there's power to the starter solenoid and it doesn't engage (even if the starter doesn't turn), then it's bad. If it engages (clunk) and the starter doesn't turn, either it or the starter is bad, or it isn't getting full power, by whatever means (usually a repeated clicking).
    1985 Blazer 6.2
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnC View Post
    Do you mean the solenoid has power when you turn the key to start? If so, check the big battery cable connection at the starter and the grounds from the battery to the engine. If all is good, sounds like the solenoid or starter are bad.
    Proud Deplorable,
    Weather turned off cold, had to quit working on it. I think your right on the solenoid or starter. I was looking in a shop manual and I have a wire on the R side of the solenoid that shouldn't be there. I'm going to move it to the battery cable. I haven't checked to see if the S side wire is broken or melted off or something . Hopefully when it warms back up I'll have a chance to do more with it. Thanks for the reply, it is appreciated. RudyJ

  10. #10
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    I had to chuckle at your comment "the weather turned cold" when i looked at your location.
    My comment would be for summer "the weather got to hot to work outside"
    Here i would think nothing of dropping a starter at -20 C which i believe is -4 F
    But when it gets hot like 35 C or 95 F i am inside trying to stay cool somehow, and working is the furthest thing from my mind
    Plus put me in the proud deplorable camp.Here we were called the fringe minority by our Blackfaced "leader"
    You can try to carefully short out the starter by applying power to the small terminal from the big one with a screwdriver or similar just remember the carefully part as you can melt things if the screwdriver touches ground.
    I have used that trick many times to get something running
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yukon6.2 View Post
    I had to chuckle at your comment "the weather turned cold" when i looked at your location.
    My comment would be for summer "the weather got to hot to work outside"
    Here i would think nothing of dropping a starter at -20 C which i believe is -4 F
    But when it gets hot like 35 C or 95 F i am inside trying to stay cool somehow, and working is the furthest thing from my mind
    Plus put me in the proud deplorable camp.Here we were called the fringe minority by our Blackfaced "leader"
    You can try to carefully short out the starter by applying power to the small terminal from the big one with a screwdriver or similar just remember the carefully part as you can melt things if the screwdriver touches ground.
    I have used that trick many times to get something running

    Weather warmed back up so I pulled the starter, tested the solenoid, then the starter motor. Solenoid hummed when I put power to it, then I had to push the solenoid rod to make it work, it did stay in but was already getting warm, so it was shot. Starter motor ran fine.Put it all back together with new solenoid and it cranked right up. The wire I thought was on the R terminal was actually on the S terminal, there was no R terminal. Everything is good to go now. Thank you everyone that responded, the information was appreciated.
    RudyJ
    Waco, Tx

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