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Thread: Weird.....Is this normal????

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Falls City, NE
    Posts
    16

    Post

    Okay, I've only had this suburban for 3 weeks so I am still trying to figure out what is normal and what is not.

    I was cruisin down the interstate at 70 mph with the cruise set, and I turned on my blinker to pass someone. The cruise shut itself off? I repeated this scenario a couple of times to prove to myself what was happening.

    Then later with the cuise OFF I was driving 70 mph and turned on the blinker to pass someone and the torque convertor unlocked itself (engine rpms raised alittle). I repeated this a couple of times to prove to myself it was really happening.

    Now that I am back from vacation, I've tried to duplicate these things and I cannot. The blinker doesn't turn off the cruise control or unlock the torque convertor.

    The only difference between now and then is that the suburban is now empty and I am not pulling my jetski (maybe connecting the trailer wiring affects it???)

    Does anyone know whats going on???
    95 K2500 Suburban, 6.5TD, 150,000 miles, K&N, Bilsteins, H2 wheels (on the way), Isspro Guages (on backorder)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Richmond, VA
    Posts
    78

    Post

    Electrical "gremlins" are a pretty common topic, general consensus seems to be that they are often a result of bad grounds. It would make sense that a ground fault could be worsened with trailer wiring plugged in. A usual symptom of bad ground connections is gauge needles that 'bounce' when the turn signals are on. You could probably start there.

    good luck
    94 3500 Dually Ext. Cab 6.5TD<br />Exiss 3-horse Gooseneck with tie-downs for the bike

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    67

    Talking

    Vacation alcohol will give the same results also...Just kidding. I have had a few strange electrical things on my truck also.
    1998 Chevrolet Suburban 2500 with 6.5 tdsl,4:10 rear,Heath exhaust system and Heath Fan and Fan clutch. 2003 Fleetwood Wilderness 31G Travel Trailer<br />sfd4@aol.com

  4. #4
    rjschoolcraft Guest

    Post

    Hey SFD: How do you like that 31G trailer? I have a 99 Wilderness 31G and really like it. I've been looking at the newer ones and see some nice new features, but I've modified mine and can't see myself trading any time soon.

  5. #5
    diesel65 Guest

    Post

    Check the ground wire in the trailer wiring. Make sure you have a good ground to the chassis of the truck.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    67

    Post

    Ron I used it this weekend 1st time and well satisfied. I have a list of things I will do; such as add 2nd door under other dinette, move the awning forward to cover bedroom window area. I have the rear bath and have already added a cabinet style door to match the wardrobe. This door now covers the open shelves behind the head. Otherwise happy. What modifications did you do? You may e-mail me at sfd4@aol.com if you like
    1998 Chevrolet Suburban 2500 with 6.5 tdsl,4:10 rear,Heath exhaust system and Heath Fan and Fan clutch. 2003 Fleetwood Wilderness 31G Travel Trailer<br />sfd4@aol.com

  7. #7
    catmandoo Guest

    Post

    does that use the adapter for the trailer harness if so i'd double check the wiring on the trailer maybe ya got some wires crossed. somedays wiring can be the biggest pain in the butt.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Auburn, CA
    Posts
    231

    Post

    I vote bad ground also, and the potential-bad-ground in trailer is a good checking point also. In the rig many have found that engine-to-chassis grounds have gone bad over time, perhaps a bit more where salt on roads is common, and under the dash where dash components get their ground. In the trailer practically anything could have been wired w/ground to a circuit or w/leakage to ground, so connecting to your on-rig system connects that bad wiring into your rig.
    If you are redoing the chassis grounds, try adding some Kopper-Shield or similar no-ox grease to the polished strap ends before reconnecting to assure good ground over time.
    \'95 P30 Motorhome 16,500gvwr, 26,500mi<br />New Ipump @ 25k, boost, EGT, homemade remote FSD cooler

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    gonzales,tx, USA
    Posts
    58

    Post

    Seems to be the same problem I have with my 96 PSD. On my truck I have learned that when I hit the blinker the computer thhinks the brakes are being applied therefore it unlocks the torque converter. Bad ground or a bulb out?
    99 k2500 sub LS. Banks DP. Isspro boost and Pyro on the pillar.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Falls City, NE
    Posts
    16

    Post

    I bought one of those trailer wiring kits which did not require any splicing. However I did have to find a ground connection, which I wasn't to happy with the overall connection. Maybe I will redo that connection tonight.

    I did clean all the battery connections yesterday, which never hurts.

    Does anyone know where the dash guages get their ground connection at? I've noticed the volt. guage reads low ~12V when running, however I've checked the batteries and the alt. output when running and it has just over 14V. I would like to ensure this connection is clean too.
    95 K2500 Suburban, 6.5TD, 150,000 miles, K&N, Bilsteins, H2 wheels (on the way), Isspro Guages (on backorder)

  11. #11
    rjschoolcraft Guest

    Post

    SFD:

    I built a steel frame at the back so that I could mount a receiver style hitch platform on the trailer. I use this hitch to mount a home-made rack for six bikes or a home-made platform for a generator. I've installed tail light assemblies with reverse lights plus separate halogen reverse lights as well. I hate trying to back into a campsite at night without being able to see. I've added a second deep cycle marine battery plus installed a heavier power converter. The original one failed and was replaced under warranty, then the second one just failed last month. Turns out the company that made them went out of business just after I got my replacement...too many warranty claims!

    I have purchased tank heaters for the gray and black water tanks, but haven't installed them yet. I also plan to enclose and insulate that section of frame around the tanks to make the trailer fully winter functional.

    I've also purchased lights to install in the exterior storage compartments...not yet completed.

    I'm in the process of adding a couple more electrical outlets and switches for controlling the tank heaters.

    I had to install stronger support for the shelves in the main closet. These both began to break and pull loose from the walls during use.

    I have also upgraded to load range D tires.

    My trailer doesn't have the exterior access to the dinette seat area. I've wondered about installing a door myself. What is your plan for that mod? Also, I was afraid that a door on the storage area next to the toilet would interfere with the toilet. Does yours clear adequately?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Falls City, NE
    Posts
    16

    Cool

    Problem solved!!! It was a bad ground connection for the trailer wiring. I drilled a hole in the hitch mount and grounded the wire using a 1/4" bolt. The problem no longer exist (I took the trailer out for a spin last night to verify this). I also noticed the trailer lights were much brighter than before.

    Thanks for the help...
    95 K2500 Suburban, 6.5TD, 150,000 miles, K&N, Bilsteins, H2 wheels (on the way), Isspro Guages (on backorder)

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