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Thread: Steering shaft/coupler questions

  1. #1
    Randee of the Redwoods Guest

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    Still working on my steering woes but getting soooooo close to the solution.
    Idrive a 2003 Chevy 3500 cab/chassis as my work truck. Today I decided to check out it's steering setup to see if it would give some inroads as how to solve my wander. The new truck has a similar styled steering gearbox but the intermediate steering shaft(connects the column shaft to the steering gear) had no ragjoint. Instead, it was the two piece sliding shaft style setup with a standard style steering u-joint at the steering gear. The connection at the column shaft looked just like mine(1994) and the u-joint clamped to the steering gear same as mine. So question: Would this late model shaft fit my previous body style truck???? I can see eliminating the rag joint will fix 99% of my current steering problems and Irealize that there will be a few small measurement deviations between model years. But it would be so nice if this would work. The main thing I don't know is whether or not the 2003 intermediate shaft would fit my 1994 steering column output shaft. But boy does it at least LOOK like it sure as heck would!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,575

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    Is your rag joint shot?

    Easy solution, if you don't want to pay the bux to the dealer for one. Are there any produce packing plants in your area? If so, drop by and talk to their maintenance people and get yourself a chunk of conveyor belt material and make one. You will probably need to double-layer it, but it will work as good as a brand new OEM replacement. I've done this a dozen times. I've seen one use tire carcas material (sidewall, I think) with similar results.

    I don't know if the steering components are compatible. Never tried that with the years you're talking about. If the parts fit, they should work fine. I really wouldn't say the later components are any better than the older ones, though.

    Good luck!
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Davenport Florida
    Posts
    268

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    I just replaced the rag joint on my 83 k2500. I got it thru Advance Auto Parts website (not at the store). It cost 29.95 i think. It was hard to find a listing for that joint. Mine was a Lares 200. Thats the # the store finally came up with too, but of course they didnt have one, so I ordered online. The ujont style shafts are better because they allow shaft misalignment on one plane without wearing out like the rag in the ragjoint does. LMC truck sells a ujoint style shaft but it is over 200.00 . Replacing the ragjoint made a HUGE difference in my 2500, especially since the truck sits on 44" swampers. Driving on the road is much more controlled now. Let me know if you find a cheaper way to convert to ujoint style.
    email rfkjr@juno.com
    07 2500HD C/C LBZ 248k
    83 K2500 X 6.2, now 390 Stroker,18.5 & 19.5x 44 TSL\'s & Boggers,5.13w/Det.Lkrs. Mud Toy
    90 ISUZU, 350 eng, 350 trans, Double xfer cases, 2.5 Military Axles, Tractor tires

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Davenport Florida
    Posts
    268

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    Randee- I just looked up your truck on partsamerica.com, and it takes the same ragjoint my 83k2500 does. It is a Lares 200, sells for 29.88 . Look under steering, miscellaneous parts.
    email rfkjr@juno.com
    07 2500HD C/C LBZ 248k
    83 K2500 X 6.2, now 390 Stroker,18.5 & 19.5x 44 TSL\'s & Boggers,5.13w/Det.Lkrs. Mud Toy
    90 ISUZU, 350 eng, 350 trans, Double xfer cases, 2.5 Military Axles, Tractor tires

  5. #5
    Randee of the Redwoods Guest

    Post

    Yep. That's the part number I got as well but the part physically will not fit the shaft. It's too large in diameter by about a half inch. It will not fit. Trust me, I tried. I don't know why my particular joint is actually smaller. Maybe this is an anomoly of some sort. Maybe this is a Friday@4:55pm truck. I haven't a clue.
    I considered cutting an aluminum plate to replace the joint but realize that it may not be a good idea eliminating the misalignment capability. Yes, the shaft is in two pieces but it's a tight fit not meant to freely slip. I'll figure out something. I'm usually good at that.
    Thanks greatly for the info. It has helped a lot. I'm at a fever pitch working on this so I should have something figured out soon.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,575

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    ....I considered cutting an aluminum plate to replace the joint but....
    Not a good idea. The rag joint has several funtions. One is to insulate chassis vibrations from transmitting through to column, and another is to accomodate for slight misallignments of the shaft. A solid aluminum plate will not allow the function of either, and probably fail due to both.

    Is is possible the joint you got was the wrong one in the box? Did you try another one of the same part number, or another manufacturer?

  7. #7
    Randee of the Redwoods Guest

    Post

    There was no other manufacturer. There was only one listing and one part number for all the years and models I looked up. As for wrong part in the box, couldn't tell you. I didn't think of asking for another.
    I know about the rag joint thing, that's why I didn't remove it. But, oh, I was soooooooo tempted........

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    33

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    Hi, i have made some work with that saft in my earlier truck 1988 k1500, it has smaller rag then 1987 and older ones, couldn't find right rag from anywhere so i took hole saft from my sparepart 1982 c10 truck, it was little too long but after pushing slide in part of it, it would fit perfectly and steering was better than ever.
    1995 Suburban K2500

  9. #9
    Randee of the Redwoods Guest

    Post

    thanks for that info kojo. You've given me something to look for now.

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