Results 1 to 4 of 4

Thread: How to turn down Injection Pump off engine, & TURBO ?'s

  1. #1
    john8662 Guest

    Post

    The Story:

    I have acquired a 6.2 engine for parts. I didn't give much for it, considering is supposed to be a running engine and it was complete. The injection pump on this engine has recently been rebuilt. The engine was also at one time equipped with a Banks turbo kit. The owner of the engine pulled this engine from his truck and installed a gasser in its place, because it had lots of leaks (boy did it).I was also told the engine would start and run good, but just left puddles of oil everywhere. The leaks from my perspective were due to the turbo install and various other rigging (oil pan had 2 oil drains tapped into place, all leaking, and valve covers leaked badly, front main, rear main, timing cover, etc.). So I purchased the engine and got some other goodies with it, it'll be a easy fix for me to have a spare engine. The turbo was removed prior to me obtaining the engine. The kit is incomplete in that I didn't get the turbo because it was ruined and the owner threw it away (broken in half as I was told). I was able to get all the rest of the under hood banks equipment (pressure chamber, air cleaner box, tubing, gauges, banks ex-manifold, oil line and misc other parts).

    Now the Questions:

    Since this engine had a banks turbo on it I am concerned about the injection pump. During a banks turbo install the injection pump has the fuel metering screw adjusted to allow more fuel to be injected. The pump was recently rebuilt and I am interested in using it again on this or another engine but probably without the turbo. The question is, how do I determine if this pump was ever turned up and is so how much? Is there a way to turn the pump back down without being installed on a running engine? I just need a way to adjust the pump back down to a stock fuel rate suitable for a J series 6.2L. Is this possible without taking it to a stanadyne diesel shop and have it put on the bench?

    Another question is about the banks turbo kit. Since I have most of the kit, where can I obtain a used turbo. I have a project truck with a N/A 6.2 in it that I am going to turbo and want some great HP out of. I am considering the MHI turbo that has been talked about here in the forums. I have seen a few 6.9/7.3 banks kits on ebay, but most are too complete to be cheap. I just want the turbo.

    And finally, talking about turbos, since I have the banks turbo manifold. Will a 6.5TD turbo charger (GM5-8) work or be adapted to work? I looked at the turbo off a 6.5 (looked at mine on the suburban) and the exaust side of the turbo points down. I don't know if I can route the exaust downward and use a 90 degree turn from then on. Has anyone tried this? Also, this install will be in an 86 4x4 suburban, Just curious.

    Thanks for your advice!
    sorry for the long story!

  2. #2
    britannic Guest

    Post

    You'll be a lot happier with the turbo. New ones occasionally can be had from eBay for as little as $400.00.

    Banks' can supply a .pdf or hard copy of the manual upon request. A brand new turbo can be as much as $1150.00, although when I last checked Banks' was prepared to discount it by around a $100.00.

    If you don't end up installing a turbo, you'll be better off testing the engine with the current IP setting and then turning it down if necessary afterward. It's easy to turn it down too much and then you'd have to work on it installed anyway.

  3. #3
    john8662 Guest

    Post

    So to determine fuel rate I am going to have to hand adjust it on an engine. So another question pops to mind, how much fuel is too much and how much fuel is too lean? I don't have a pyrometer on my naturally aspirated 6.2's, so it would be hard to determine if the fueling is too much to generate high EGT's. So do I just go by the smoke output at like full throttle without a load?

  4. #4
    britannic Guest

    Post

    You could get the pump recalibrated to stock at a Stanadyne shop or one of the DP advertisers, to save having to adjust in situ.

    In any case, before adjusting the pump, I'd recommend first setting the IP timing.

    Then install an EGT gauge and adjust the pump to not exceed 950-1050F under heavy WOT load (approach 1100F with extreme caution and then only for very brief periods).

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •