Glow System Contoller Location

[Stage1]

1986 one ton M1008 truck, new to me, Glow system dash indicator Glow "Wait" light does not come on when ignition key is turned on. Using the Diesel page trouble guide to check-out Glow system. However have a couple of questions?
1. Where is Glow system controller located?

2. Is there a fuse for the glow system? and if so where is it located, along with label name.

3. Are their any typical problem area(s) I should be looking at?

4. Good place to get a glow plug circuit diagram, I can not read the one from the diesel page.

thanks,
Les

[waorth]

Les,

unfortunately the CUCV glow system is different from the civilian ones.

In your M1008 the glow plug controller normally is located in a black box under the dash, between fuse box and steering (don't know the exact place, removed the stuff long ago).

1. Here in germany only very few of the military trucks are still equipped with the controler when sold by the US forces. Either there's a big demand of these parts in the army or the surplus dealers collect them.
Don't know about that thing in the US . . .

2. no fuse in glow system

3. aside from the controler, you should test your glow plugs. The military wiring system often leads to burnt plugs because of the 24v system (converted to 12v via a resistor bank on the firewall).
Also your relay may be dead.

4. here's the diagram from the DP


There's also a good place here for downloading all of the mil manuals for our trucks.
For the wiring diagrams you should look at TM 9-2320-289-20 or TM 9-2320-289-34

Hope this will help a little.

Walter

[Stage1]

Waorth,

Thanks for the information.

Les

[Stage1]

Waorth,

Did a little more investigation on the engine and confirmed what you said that the military 6.2 has a different "Glow" system then civilian trucks. Truck was built 3-86, and looks like it has a seperate relay from the controller. Found a relay next to the brake master cylinder on the engine side firewall that looks like it is part of th eGlow system. It has a large red wire that is from the batteries on top post; two large orange wires on the bottom post, which I assume go to the right and left bank glow plugs, along w/small orange wire; and a smaller red wire along w/blue wire on two post in the center of the relay. Can you test the glow plugs by jumping the relay wo/damage say for 1-2 seconds? Do you know which of the center posts to jump( red or blue wire) and w/what voltage 12 or 24 volts.

Looked in cab under dash and did not see Glow controller, however do not know what it looks like.
thanks for the help,
Les

[Stage1]

Walter,

After looking at the Glow system wire diagram in your post again, I noticed that I was not looking for a box as described in the diagram w/several wires connected to it via a single connector, therefor will need to look under the dash for the controller again.

[waorth]

Hi Les,

you can jump the red (pink?) wire. USE ONLY 12v!!

Do you mean the large red cable is directly routed from the batteries? If yes the system has already been "modified".
Now there are some possibilities:
1.
Glow system had been converted to 24volts using glow plugs (and 24v relay) from the mil Humvee.
Check voltage at relay (large red cable).

2.
Glow system had been rerouted, eliminating the resistors on the firewall. Still 12volts.
No other modifications.

3.
As outlined in 2. plus eliminating the controller and installing a button/switch for manual glow control. This could be done with the "wait" light as a control unit or without it.
Did you ever start the truck? Maybe a previous owner has already changed to a manual glow system. Look in the cab for an unusual button or switch.

Good luck [img]smile.gif[/img] .Walter

[Stage1]

Hi Walter,

I have case #2 you described, batteries through resistors on firewall, Therfore I will jump w/ 12 volts. I did try to start wo/glow system working. Would not start, but I did have diesel smoke out the exhaust pipes. at least it smelled like a diesel!

I Will now manually turn on Glow plugs for 3-4 seconds and then try to start engine again.

How is your timing gear change going?

thanks,
Les

[waorth]

Hi Les,

don't know about the temps in Kentucky, but maybe you should feed the plugs at least 5 to max 10 sec.
Best thing if you try it with the help of an assistent.

How is your timing gear change going?

Things are much better today. Gear drive and new pump (4911) are installed. I hope the new damper will arrive on wednesday. In the meantime change of power steering pump can be done.
Oh yes and I will try to put both batteries on the back tray. This setting will help to gain more air through the opening in the radiator support.
Regards.Walter

[britannic]

I made a new battery hold down out of bar and placed both my batteries on the rear tray (the monster military one for the old 80lb? battery). YMMV, but the suspension is pretty hard on the M10xx series and I couldn't find a conventional battery that wouldn't leak acid when jolted, until I switched to twin Optimas.

Originally posted by waorth:
Hi Les,

don't know about the temps in Kentucky, but maybe you should feed the plugs at least 5 to max 10 sec.
Best thing if you try it with the help of an assistent.


</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr /> How is your timing gear change going?

Things are much better today. Gear drive and new pump (4911) are installed. I hope the new damper will arrive on wednesday. In the meantime change of power steering pump can be done.
Oh yes and I will try to put both batteries on the back tray. This setting will help to gain more air through the opening in the radiator support.
Regards.Walter </font>[/QUOTE]

[waorth]

YMMV, but the suspension is pretty hard on the M10xx series and I couldn't find a conventional battery that wouldn't leak acid when jolted, until I switched to twin Optimas.

Me in your shoes Britannic.
I'm using 2 small plastic hoses (extra stiff). One end I inserted in the vent hole(?) of the batts, the other one in a plastic bottle. This didn't stop the leaking but at least my inner fender should survive another year or two

I've seen the Optimas mounted on the upper tray of a M1009. They're about half the size of the standard batteries an fit very nice.
And they're vibration resistant.
What kind of optimas do you have, yellow or red?


Btw, they send me the wrong damper today (one for serpentine belt systems).
It turned out that they only keep that style in store.
So I'can't test my gear drive today.

Hope the other dealer (USD 152) will send it until tomorrow (cross referenced the part number with GM # this time).

Walter

[ 02-25-2004, 06:18 AM: Message edited by: waorth ]

[britannic]

waorth: I found 2 "blemished" orange top Optimas on eBay for the price of one, they were bought back stock that Optima had to dump for tax reasons.

BTW, I got a new OEM balancer from www.gmpartsdirect.com for under $100.00 plus shipping, I used the part number from the military parts book. You may want to check them out for future price comparisons - FYI always doublecheck their shipping charges as they can sometimes sting you.

[Stage1]

Hi Walter,

Big smile today, I jumped the "Glow" relay for 4-5 secs. and my new to me truck started right up instantly. Ran it for about 3 secs and turned it off. Very happy that it started and has a good rattle. Now I will start to replace the parts that are missing radiator, right front caliper, along w/rear window glass.

thanks to you and others for your help,
Les

[waorth]

Les,

good to hear that you're engine is running

I read your idea about the 4L80E. Do you plan using the truck mostly for offroad? Man, that would give you an awsome crawler!
I kind of recoil from putting a computer into the old beast although.
Up to now I'm more than satisfied with the gearing. The 37" tires help keeping the rpms a little lower on the highway, where the 2.61:1 of the NP208 takes care of the needed torque when 4wheeling.


Britannic,

I'm already using gmparts.com mostly for price comparisons (they do not send overseas yet). Maybe I shouldn't do that any longer - it's too frustrating.
Had to pay 140 Euros (about $172) plus shipping at a american parts dealer here in germany.

Walter