Rotella and Dello synthetic

**Tractorhauler** · 12-13-2002, 00:51

I was under the impression that Rotella and Dello synthetics were merely blends and not true synthetics. The man at my local oil distributer where I bought my Mobil 1 said that they are both true synthetics.

I was wondering, does anyone know the truth about these oils.........dino or syn?

Mark

**george morrison** · 12-13-2002, 15:28

Both the Shell and Chevron 'synthetic' oils are really Dino, Group III oils. They are not true synthetic Group IV oils as is Delvac 1. When Castrol quietly switched its Syntec from Group IV to Group III, they broke the dam and now everyone is calling their Group III mineral based oils "synthetic" when in fact they are mineral based oils. The group III mineral based oils do perform better than the Group I and II mineral based oils but do not have nearly the performance capabilities of the true Group IV and Group V synthetic oils. Mobil Delvac 1 is the only true synthetic diesel engine oil produced by the major oil companies. Delvac 1 also has a proven 25+ year operational history..
George Morrison, STLE CLS

**Colorado Kid** · 12-13-2002, 15:34

Now where else are you going to get information like that? Somebody should give George a lifetime membership to the page. [img]smile.gif[/img]

**Tractorhauler** · 12-13-2002, 15:58

I couldn't agree more..... The man at our local bulk plant said "they must be synthetic because they say "synthetic"

Mark

**svpdiesel** · 12-13-2002, 16:37

Thanks, George! Come to find out TranSynd is also a Gr III mineral oil. So all of us who thought TranSynd was synthetic, have been getting fooled. It is still a good product, but way overpriced.
Thanks again!
Steve

**rrocket** · 12-13-2002, 21:57

George;
I thought The Amsol Diesel oil was also a true synthetic??

GT · 12-13-2002, 22:22

Is the Castro Trysynd we put in the allison a true synthetic or a base 3 oil? Would we be better off with mobil 1 atf? Thanks Cranky

**george morrison** · 12-14-2002, 13:16

I apologize, yes, Amsoil is a true Group IV synthetic also; however, in my post I indicated the "Major" oil producers, i.e. the Shells, Chevrons, Texacos, Pennzoils of the world..
Amsoil not being considered one of the "majors" but is indeed full synthetic just like Mobil Delvac 1 diesel and Mobil 1 for autos..
George

**TraceF** · 12-20-2002, 18:14

Use premium quality 15w40 and change it at the proper interval and you don't need to go the expense of synthetic crankcase lube. I am 20 years in the lubricants industry and have seen every kind of research done. Today's lubes are so far ahead of what was available even 10 years ago most people can't comprehend the difference as it relates to performance now vs. then. Conversely, don't change the crankcase lube too often, it's a valuable and diminishing commodity and today's add packs make the lube hold up very very well. My work car has 170,000 plus on it, a GM 3.1 and still runs fine. I have seen HD otr diesel tractors go 1.2 mm miles without an in-frame changing crankcase lube only when oil analysis said it was needed. Needed! This is getting the most out of the lube and the $.

**hogbody** · 12-20-2002, 22:51

My question is....what are the proper intervals. The Book says 15,000 normal duty, 7,500 for severe duty. The dealer says 3,000 because GM wants to sell you parts.

Does this automatic oil changing system worth anything???

Newbie with a diesel.

**a bear** · 12-21-2002, 00:28

I agree with Trace F 100%. I've been running GM products for over 20 years with good old dino oil and regular maintenance. Knock on wood - I have never replaced a engine,trans.,or rear end. Sold my last Chevy W/ over 260,000 miles on it about 2 years ago. Inside of the valve cover looked clean as new. Still see it on the road. Use a good oil filter. Stay away from fram filters. But thats another story.

**TraceF** · 12-21-2002, 06:47

If you are running a Duramax engine my opinion (opinion) is that a 6k change interval is very safe. Mine has onboard computer that will take the truck to around 10k but I would consider this under ideal conditions only. I will run the pee out of mine and it will soot, get acidic, etc sooner.

Use good oil. The diesel spec is the "C" spec on the bottle or jug. A CG is better (more current spec) than a CF. Similarly, a CI is more current than CG.

Was in Wal-Mart yesterday and they had Rotella T quarts with 2 spec's where they hadn't properly rotated the stock on the shelves. Get the most current spec possible.

Additive technology is advancing every year. Point is to use premium oil.

**Nels** · 12-21-2002, 07:51

I use the dino oil also and I change more often than most of you from what I've read here. I am still stuck in the every 3000 mile routine. I simply cannot stomach leaving the oil in the pan much longer than that. This may be 'oldthink' (Orwell) due to my earlier experience with many tired old used trucks before buying my first new one. The last of these used trucks ('81 K2500 w/400 ci) I sold with 244,000 miles on it in 1995, and the guy who bought it from me is still driving it daily (although he changes the oil about every 1500 miles now as a precaution -- She's tired, but still dependable). I'm going on the "better safe than sorry" principal. I just think that regardless of the quality of the lubricant, additives, etc., I still feel better about removing the contaminants that inherently end up in the pan due to normal operation (regardless of what engine you are running). There is still no better way to remove the contaminants than to change out the oil. The frequent changes are also the reason I have not considered a synthetic oil. Someone will have to change my thinking about lubricants in order to 'convert' me to synthetics. At least for the engine. I am due for a transmission fluid change, and I will probably use synthetic for that, and there is already synthetic in the rear end, but I can't bring myself to use it in the engine.

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