Newbie With a 1983 G Series Van & 6.2

[Bigshankhank]

Only confusing part of removing the IP, how do I place a timing mark on the pump prior to removal? Assuming I do not need to replace it with new, is there a pulley on the face of it with a timing mark somewhere? I can just mark the body to match that so when I get it back it should align close enough to get down the road, correct? Once I pull it off, I won't rotate the engine any further so I am not too terribly concerned with lining up the engine timing marks in any orientation, just resetting the IP position to match it when it was removed.

Thanks again for the help.

[DmaxMaverick]

The pump timing, initially, should be a walk in the park. It should already have timing marks on the pump mounting flange top, and on the timing cover top. The marks should line up, or be close (if timing has been adjusted, which is normal for higher mileage engines to compensate for timing parts wear). If you don't find timing marks on both, scribe a mark on the pump flange that lines up with the mark on the timing cover. If you find marks and they are more than 1/8" apart, make a scribe mark on the IP flange that lines up with the mark on the timing cover. If you install a different pump, it should have a timing mark you can line up with the mark on the timing cover (line it up approximate to the current pump timing marks). Timing may not be ideal, but it's close enough for a start and run. Correct on not turning the engine with the IP removed. It won't mess with the pump timing, but the pump drive gear can become off-timed with the cam gear (it just sits on top of the cam gear with no pump installed). When installing, the indexing pin on the pump drive flange will reset the correct timing (it will only install correctly one way. so make SURE the pin lines up with the hole in the gear). If for any reason the gear timing seem off, confirm it by lining up the gear timing marks. It's a good idea to rotate the engine so the marks can be seen (through the oil fill hole) lined up, before removing the pump. I've never had one move on me, but it can happen.

If you make timing adjustments, remember, the pump rotates opposite the crank, and at 1/2 speed of the crank (IP timing degrees will be exaggerated at 2X that of the crank, so it doesn't take much movement to mean a lot).

[Bigshankhank]

The pump timing, initially, should be a walk in the park. It should already have timing marks on the pump mounting flange top, and on the timing cover top. The marks should line up, or be close (if timing has been adjusted, which is normal for higher mileage engines to compensate for timing parts wear). If you don't find timing marks on both, scribe a mark on the pump flange that lines up with the mark on the timing cover. If you find marks and they are more than 1/8" apart, make a scribe mark on the IP flange that lines up with the mark on the timing cover. If you install a different pump, it should have a timing mark you can line up with the mark on the timing cover (line it up approximate to the current pump timing marks). Timing may not be ideal, but it's close enough for a start and run. Correct on not turning the engine with the IP removed. It won't mess with the pump timing, but the pump drive gear can become off-timed with the cam gear (it just sits on top of the cam gear with no pump installed). When installing, the indexing pin on the pump drive flange will reset the correct timing (it will only install correctly one way. so make SURE the pin lines up with the hole in the gear). If for any reason the gear timing seem off, confirm it by lining up the gear timing marks. It's a good idea to rotate the engine so the marks can be seen (through the oil fill hole) lined up, before removing the pump. I've never had one move on me, but it can happen.

If you make timing adjustments, remember, the pump rotates opposite the crank, and at 1/2 speed of the crank (IP timing degrees will be exaggerated at 2X that of the crank, so it doesn't take much movement to mean a lot).

Got it, I am not intending to change or adjust timing at this point, I would hope with only 62K miles this engine isn't "worn" enough to necessitate adjustment yet.

From reading the book, isn't it necessary to rotate the crank in order to access the mounting bolts for the pump? I don't have the book in front of me right now, but I understand removing the oil fill tube from the plate is necessary to access those bolts, and rotating the crank allows access to all three of them.

[DmaxMaverick]

Yes. You will need to rotate the engine to access all the bolts. I was referring to rotation once the pump is removed. If you line up the timing marks on the gears once all the bolts are removed, it will be more simple to line up the pilot/index pin during reinstall. It isn't complicated, and there's no reason to complicate it.

[Bigshankhank]

OK, just wanted to make sure I understood what you were saying.

edit: Called that shop and they are closed on the weekend, did you just google Stanadyne repair shops or how did you find them?

edit #2: Nevermind, I searched both Google and Stanadyne's homepage and that is the nearest shop to me. Monday it shall be, and hopefully it will be a simple fix that I can get it moving by Tuesday.

[DmaxMaverick]

Google search for Sarasota and Stanadyne, and Stanadyne's page. Good luck with your HOA!

[Dvldog8793]

FYI-
When you are removing the injection pump bolts, Put a shop rag in the bottom of the hole to prevent any stuff, like the bolt, from dropping into the cover. I also put a dab of heavy grease on the socket to make sure the bolt doesn't drop out of the socket.
If you remove as many glow plugs as you can, turning the engine will be MUCH easier. It will be VERY helpful to have at least some extra eyes to watch for the bolt to come into view while you are turn the engine.
Have good weekend!

[Bigshankhank]

Oh my, I may have found my problem. I hope and pray that I found my problem. Will report back in the AM.

[Bigshankhank]

Possible air leak at the secondary filter. Fixed, re-bled all eight injectors. Now it will start and blow a ton of white smoke, then will stall.
Dies almost immediately upon startup, I can get to about 1/2 throttle and it will hang in for a second or two longer then it stalls.
Quick help anyone who is out there.

[DmaxMaverick]

Keep looking for leaks. Test for air in the system. You should have the clear line installed on the fuel return outlet until this is completely behind you. As long as air is getting into the system, starting attempts will result the same (fruitless).