Excessive smoke 6.5

[sctrailrider]

And yes, if it dies when you open the t valve the lift pump is not working well, get another, the one for a 93 is the best one as far as psi it puts out...


At some point the lift pump harness would be a good investment...

[Swatravels]

i would disconnect the rod and continue to spray the lube, check the rod and see how much it moves in the canister part, it might need some lube also..


The arm the rod connects to on the housing should move easy by itself, if it's tight some lube might help, if it doesn't it's time to consider a turbo rebuild... While your their, remove the rubber hose on the turbo inlet and see how the blades spin, they also should spin easy, if it doesn't the turbo is ready for a rebuild as it's coked up, the older ones are good at that due to their age...

I was trying to show how much the rod can travel

[attach]C638844D-B0CD-4B71-AC15-6E9DF2746871.jpg

821CBBC9-BC67-4AF3-B848-5C326A57F811.jpg[/attach]

[sctrailrider]

Looks strange from here...



Might disconnect the front canister that the rod is in and move the entire rod and see how easy the flapper moves and also the front portion of the arm... The assembly should move easy but when connected be harder to move, the front of the rod is spring loaded to keep the flapper closed until a certain boost psi is reached then the flap moves...

[JohnC]

The arm on the wastegate doesn't move more than 90 degrees. Better if you can measure the manifold pressure, to be sure.

If the lift pump runs when you jump it, then it's probably OK. The lift pump is powered two ways: when the starter is energized and when the engine has oil pressure. If it stalls when you open the "T" valve, try jumping the pump on and repeating the test. If it doesn't stall then, the pump is OK and the oil pressure switch (also the gauge sensor) is not powering the pump. Don't be deceived if there's nothing wrong with the gauge. They're separate circuits in the same sensor.

The black smoke in the photo: was that with no load on the engine?Have you changed the air filter yet? Black smoke means too much fuel for the available air.

No harm in changing all the glow plugs, but some of them can be a real PITA, so you might want to test them before you replace them.

[Swatravels]

The arm on the wastegate doesn't move more than 90 degrees. Better if you can measure the manifold pressure, to be sure.

If the lift pump runs when you jump it, then it's probably OK. The lift pump is powered two ways: when the starter is energized and when the engine has oil pressure. If it stalls when you open the "T" valve, try jumping the pump on and repeating the test. If it doesn't stall then, the pump is OK and the oil pressure switch (also the gauge sensor) is not powering the pump. Don't be deceived if there's nothing wrong with the gauge. They're separate circuits in the same sensor.

The black smoke in the photo: was that with no load on the engine?Have you changed the air filter yet? Black smoke means too much fuel for the available air.

No harm in changing all the glow plugs, but some of them can be a real PITA, so you might want to test them before you replace them.

On the picture the truck was running. If I step on it it produces a lot of black smoke.
I’m trying to get it working so I can take it over two mountains passes so for now it’s not going anywhere.
The drive it’s pretty intense for a vehicle that it’s not working well
I’ll try testing the pump function tomorrow. Thank you

[JohnC]

On the picture the truck was running. If I step on it it produces a lot of black smoke.

OK. sounds like that's no load. The turbo can't produce much boost with no load, so I'd hold off worrying about that until you get everything else taken care of. Do you know if the previous owner tried to make any performance enhancements?

[Swatravels]

OK. sounds like that's no load. The turbo can't produce much boost with no load, so I'd hold off worrying about that until you get everything else taken care of. Do you know if the previous owner tried to make any performance enhancements?

The truck shows about 084000 miles. The story is that the engine was replace at one point but I have no paperwork of that
The air box it’s stock and somewhat damage where it attaches to the fender. The filter was dirty when I got it. A new filter was install last week,new fuel filter
I’ll say no to the performance enhancements
Engine was pretty dirty since this vehicle used to be driven in country roads. I have cleaned most of the top end using very little solution to avoid damaging
electrical components . When I jumped the pump I was able to hear it running. I’m not sure I have heard the pump run when the truck it’s on. How can I test to see if the pump it’s being activated when the vehicle it’s running? 940DC30D-57B2-4043-B0EA-E10BD8E5A94D.jpg

[DmaxMaverick]

Is this a P-Chassis, Chassis/Cab, or a pickup conversion (noticed a "box" van in your exhaust pics), and what is the GVWR (sticker on door/post, VIN, and/or RPO code in glove box)? There are subtle differences between them. It won't make much of a difference with the diagnostics, but may help with some component locations, access, and operation, including emission controls if present.

[Swatravels]

Is this a P-Chassis, Chassis/Cab, or a pickup conversion (noticed a "box" van in your exhaust pics), and what is the GVWR (sticker on door/post, VIN, and/or RPO code in glove box)? There are subtle differences between them. It won't make much of a difference with the diagnostics, but may help with some component locations, access, and operation, including emission controls if present.

This vehicle used to be a rural ambulance then passed on to a swat team to be used for transport

[Swatravels]

DD8E8921-5BE2-4591-8F2D-FAE0252E09CF.jpg
When we first start it.

[JohnC]

How can I test to see if the pump it’s being activated when the vehicle it’s running?

You already did. When you open the "T" valve fuel should come out and the engine should keep running. Since it stalled, that indicates the pump is not running. Most likely, the oil pressure switch is bad.

When we first start it.

Take the leads off the glow plugs and test from the terminal (on the plug) to ground with an Ohm meter. Expect a reading around 0.8 Ohms for a good plug.

[Swatravels]

You already did. When you open the "T" valve fuel should come out and the engine should keep running. Since it stalled, that indicates the pump is not running. Most likely, the oil pressure switch is bad.


Take the leads off the glow plugs and test from the terminal (on the plug) to ground with an Ohm meter. Expect a reading around 0.8 Ohms for a good plug.

Ok. Thank you for all this information,it’s very helpful to me as I’m trying to learn as much as possible
The ironic thing is that my father was in master diesel mechanic of 30+ years and I know nothing about Diesel. Here I’m trying to learn now that he’s not longer with us
Thanks again I’ll check the glow plugs and oil pressure switch

[DmaxMaverick]

This vehicle used to be a rural ambulance then passed on to a swat team to be used for transport

OK. Can't tell by the pics, but if it has a pickup cab, it's a Cab/Chassis. If it has a van cab, it's a P-chassis. Either way, it's a 3500, NOT a 3500HD, according to the declaration placard. The engine VIN code (8th digit, F) indicates Federal HD emission equipment, which means, no emission equipment (a good thing, unless you're a granola-eater).

[Swatravels]

New oil pressure sensor install. I was removing the connector and the sensor cap came off so I install a new sensor. Drove it around but still leaves smoke behind when pressing hard on the pedal

[Swatravels]

89E2D642-D413-49C3-B963-A8A8C0EB37CC.jpg

OK. Can't tell by the pics, but if it has a pickup cab, it's a Cab/Chassis. If it has a van cab, it's a P-chassis. Either way, it's a 3500, NOT a 3500HD, according to the declaration placard. The engine VIN code (8th digit, F) indicates Federal HD emission equipment, which means, no emission equipment (a good thing, unless you're a granola-eater).

Here is the ride

[Swatravels]

New oil pressure sensor install. I was removing the connector and the sensor cap came off so I install a new sensor. Drove it around but still leaves smoke behind when pressing hard on the pedal

Just order a new LP harness

[JohnC]

It would be helpful to know what you're getting for manifold pressure.

If you're flooring the pedal in neutral, the governor should limit the fuel and prevent smoking.

If the engine is under load, the turbo should be building boost and eliminating most, if not all, of the black smoke.

[Kennedy]

Lots to read and lots to digest. I just skimmed.

Arveetek just posted about glow plugs.

On the smoke deal those DB2 pumps did tend to get tired/worn and sticky in the advance bore. The tendency was more toward a blue/white smoke coming off idle. Getting the lift pump working is an important first step.

Wastegates on these models tend to stick closed if anything. The fact that it moves at all is a sign that all is well. Boost gauge mandatory for diagnosis.

[Yukon6.2]

Ok. Thank you for all this information,it’s very helpful to me as I’m trying to learn as much as possible
The ironic thing is that my father was in master diesel mechanic of 30+ years and I know nothing about Diesel. Here I’m trying to learn now that he’s not longer with us
Thanks again I’ll check the glow plugs and oil pressure switch

Not an isolated experience
My Dad baked awesome bread,but would not share the recipe
Now i am trying to recreate it,since he said he would take it to the grave.

[Swatravels]

It would be helpful to know what you're getting for manifold pressure.

If you're flooring the pedal in neutral, the governor should limit the fuel and prevent smoking.

If the engine is under load, the turbo should be building boost and eliminating most, if not all, of the black smoke.

I’ll search how to check the manifold pressure and report back.