Has to be the pressure fuel line coming up the rear of the engine (Across the top of the bell housing) and to the filter housing.
That line from the filter is metal part of the way and then rubber to the filter.
These can and do go bad.
Missy Good Wench ( Moderator)
Has to be the pressure fuel line coming up the rear of the engine (Across the top of the bell housing) and to the filter housing.
That line from the filter is metal part of the way and then rubber to the filter.
These can and do go bad.
(1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
(1) 1997 Astro
(1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY
Enthusiast
I just replaced these lines (supply and return) last year from the fuel manager back to the tank on my '93. Pulling them out, I'm surprised that I was getting any fuel at all for as long as I did - the literally crumbled in my hands.
The downside is getting to them. I did it without dropping the transmission, but it was a bear and a half!
'94 GMC 6.5TD K1500 4L80E 2-Door Yukon SLE 221K
'93 Chevrolet 6.5TD K2500HD NV4500 Std. Cab Longbed 187K
'85 Toyota 22R RN60 4x4 Std. Cab Shortbed 178K (Currently retired for rebuild)
Diesel Page Member #2423
Missy Good Wench ( Moderator)
The last one I did I replaced the lines from the electric pump up to the engine bay.
I rerouted the lines forward on the frame rail (Drivers side) and up into the engine bay.
I installed the aforementioned RACOR FILTER up by the ABS module and ran the fuel lines along the inner fender behind the ABS
The return line I ran across the firewall and to the engines return line. (Hard line on RH side that terminates by the factory filter.
The factory lines have a clamp that holds them to one of the stud top bolts in the top of the bell housing.
On that rig getting the lines out were a beotch... but after getting the old filter out I was able to remove the nut holding the clamp and then with some brute force, rip the old lines out.
I used the old metal portion of the line near the pump and added a ferrule fitting to it to provide a good retainer for the heavy duty fuel line and clamped the hose behind the ferrule.
Just leave the ferrule nut after tightening it to crimp... remove the fitting and your golden.
Be sure to fasten the new hose well along the frame rail and in the engine bay.
Jump the fuel feed hose across from the new filter to the Inlet on the IP
All the other old hoses are no longer needed (Ones in the valley)
A good fix..
The engineers gave zero thought to the PITA that replacing the lines is after the body is on the truck.
(1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
(1) 1997 Astro
(1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY
Enthusiast
So I have rerouted the fuel lines, changed out the fuel manager, and I still have a leak! It is still coming down the passenger side down the starter. I am about to just throw this truck out in the yard with a for sale sign on it. Any other ideas?
Missy Good Wench ( Moderator)
Hi
YOU LIKELY have a leak at the rear injector on the little rubber plug that caps the rear injectors rear most nipple...
Or one of the rubber lines that daisychains the injectors together to feed return fuel back up the the return line up top.
Not at all a biggy.
You can get a complete hose kit for the injector return lines...
Not at all a spendy item.
ebay has the kits..."6.5 diesel injector fuel return hose kits"
(1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
(1) 1997 Astro
(1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY
Enthusiast
Thank you! I will take a look when I get out of work and let you know!
Administrator
Once again, great minds......Originally Posted by Robyn
Missy Good Wench ( Moderator)
Been there DONE THAT.
What sucks is when the plug leaks enough to catch fire..
THE FAN HOWLING AWAY MAKES FOR A VERY VERY INTERESTING TIME AND HOT DOG ROAST
Get in there and remove the sheet metal cover over the injectors.
Start the engine and my bet is it will be very obvious whats leaking.
one of the hoses or the rear injector nipple cap.
JUST AN FYI
Jack up the rig
Remove RIGHT FRONT TIRE/WHEEL
Block rig
Remove inner rubber fender splash shield
All the glow plugs accept #8 are easily accessed
Starter support hook and wires are easily accessed to.
Sit on your butt on a bucket and work on the stuff.
(1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
(1) 1997 Astro
(1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY
Administrator
It has to be something simple you're missing. The only thing (in OEM trim) that can leak fuel down the block and onto the starter, is the rear injector(s). If it isn't missing, it isn't likely a fuel injector line. That leaves the return lines, and the termination cap on the rear injector. The location of the turbo and heat shield makes the area one of the most neglected on the truck. Oftentimes, a glow plug service will omit #6 and #8, just to save time and knuckle hide. It's also possible a return line under there was dislodged or damaged during the turbo replacement. It wouldn't be a first.
Stupid question, but are you SURE it is fuel that's leaking? The tranny dipstick tube is right there, and it wouldn't be the first time if ATF were to leak from it. Perhaps a pinhole near the mounting tab weld or corrosion? A minor leak of ATF along the block is almost indistinguishable from fuel. Catch some drops on a white paper towel and check the color. If you're running red or off-highway fuel, or blue ATF, only a smell or lab test may show the difference.
Lastly, and certainly the most common, may be valve cover leakage at the rear corner. Again, be absolutely sure of the fluid leaking. Get that wrong, and you'll be talking to the wrong end of the horse all day.
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