My Suburban blew the gasket on the front of number 2 cylinder (Where I was talking about) and it filled the engine chuck full of Glycol)

The close proximity of coolant that just lays on the deck and eventually soaks into the gasket causes erosion of the fire ring area and over time the block deck etches out and leaves an actual little divit in the deck...

Once this happens the gasket fails.

With the amount of coolant we are talking....this is my best guess...

When our Burb did it I hit the starter and the engine hydro locked and the starter fell off.

Bolts broke...block was fine...lucky shot...

Get it out and then you can do the post mortem easily..

Myself I like to yank the turbo and manifolds off the engine as this makes getting the engine out easier.

Get the RH front tire off and the rubber inner flap off....This gives gobs of room to get in and remove the exhaust manifolds, the turbo drain pipe, the starter electrical connections and the front starter support ....all this stuff with far less fight and busted knuckles.......

Get the fuel manager off the rear of the engine to gain access to electrical plugs and the bell housing bolts.

GET A 9/16" FLEX HEAD GEAR WRENCH.....TO DO THE UPPER TRANNY BOLTS.

Your rig should have SAE bolts....96 and later used metric in this location.....

A totally factory install has stud top bolts with lock nuts to secure the fuel feed and return pipe bracket to the top two bolts on the tranny.... (If the bolt comes loose while removing the nuts holding the fuel pipe brackets it can require grinding down an open end wrench to hold the bolt head at the block)

This lash up with the fuel pipes is a POS and can be a PITA

The other tranny bolts are easily accessed from under the rig while getting the bottom bell housing cover off....and the starter....


Just an FYI
My rig was down for some time while I did the rebuild....The Glycol had caused the turbo to stick.

To stop this issue ....Flush the turbo oil passage out with solvent or gasoline...both the oil feed passage and the exhaust passage through the hot side.....Dry and then add oil to the oil feed line and store the turbo until you need it...

Remember....the engine oil cooler is likely contaminated too......Remove the radiator (Usual thing when getting the engine out) flush the radiator and the oil cooler.

I used GUNK foam engine cleaner in the oil cooler...then water to wash it out.

Then solvent or gasoline to finish it off..
Blow out the lines and let dry.

I like to leave the AC system intact.....just tie off to the inner fender with bungy strap or ????

Stick a piece of plywood or??? in the protect the condenser core.

All the wiring is pretty much ...such the the plugs are not interchangeable.. Mark them if you wish....

The oil cooler lines at the engine are a "Snap in lock type fitting" You can wrench the block fittings off and fight the lock rings later.

Unless the oil lines are recently new....Replace these with either a new factory type or a set of braided type lines with JIC fittings.....

These are not pleasant to replace with the engine in the truck.

I usually unhook the oil lines at the radiator and leave them on the engine.....Install new on the engine and then it's easy to reconnect later.

Fighting things is something I avoid at all cost....Because if it's a PITA to get to or work on....it just might leak or ????? later.

The inner fender access point on the RH side will allow you very easy access to the glow plug tubes and wires and manifold bolts.

Installing the manifolds after the engine is set makes life easy.

Remove the lower RH motor mount from the frame pad before you lift.

Easy to do and this allows the engine to be shifted slightly to the RH side and then barely off the frame and its out.

Otherwise some rigs have settled enough (Body mount sag) the the rear of the engine will hit the firewall before the motor mounts clear the frame brackets.....and life gets ugly.

Just reverse the procedure going back.

Remove the six nuts on the converter to flex plate and shove the converter back into the tranny a bit....Good to go.

Ply wood chunk across a floor jack under the tranny pan before you lift the engine..

A couple long 3/8 bolts into a couple tranny bolt holes and stick a piece of 2 x 2 wood (Twig) across the fame and set the tranny down on them.

All snug as a bug in a rug until its time to replace the engine.

Now this is me (Very anal) I grab a box of Sandwich bags and "Tag and bag" all groups of bolts as I go and label them.

This makes the return far easier and the right bolts go back where they came from.

It is nice to be able grab a bag of bolts/nuts and have what you need for the area you are working on..

Really a pain when you toss everything into a bucket and then try to sort it out weeks or months later.

I put all my bags of bolts and such in a box in sort of the order I will need them going back.

Bags and a sharpie pen.... yessssssssssss....

I have done several of these rigs and done it with the tag and bag program ....never ended up short or long on parts.

And things look like Ma General had it .

TAG'EM AND BAGE'M ..

Good luck......