Glycol coolant will ruin the bearings fairly quick.
If there is coolant in the oil it has gone through the entire engine.....
May be a great idea to lower the coolant level.....Drain the oil (Get a sample tested) replace the filter....Add a full charge of ATF to the pan and run the engine at idle for a very short time to purge out the Glycol.....Drain the pan....
Get the engine out and on a stand.
When the heads are off check the block deck for erosion at the fire ring...(If the deck has a groove worn in it then the job gets tougher)
The front and rear cylinder deck area next to the coolant passage can and do erode .
Flip the engine upside down and get the pan off.....
The rods are not numbered.....Stamp the part line on each rod before removing.
Driver side 1-3-5-7 Pass 2-4-6-8
Stamp the rod and the cap......Then you can remove them and examine the bearings .....Caps must go back on the one it came off.
The bearing shells have sizes on them.....GM used "Select fit" bearings to allow for minor differences in sizes of rod bore and crank diameter.
You will be hard pressed to find the select fit bearings......But Standards and other under sizes are available.....If you see std that's easy....These are metric engines so all specs will be in mm.....
Main bearings can be checked as well and new shells rolled in....Be sure and mark the main caps.......
A fresh rear main seal is a good idea.....
Keep us in the loop.....Lots of pictures helps
Just heads up
The push rods on these engines can not be reversed.....Mark the end that is in the rocker arm....This end must always go in the rocker
Some push rids have a copper colored ball at the rocker...Some have a paint stripe at the rocker end ....Just be sure they do not get mixed up....
The ball at the rocker is hard....The other end is not...
If the head gaskets do not present as bad.....Check the number 8 cylinder at the rear top just down from the deck surface about 5/8"
These have been known to crack.
A cracked cylinder will show a strange colored area on this area....
Also.
Before (IF) you remove the injection pump ....Make a clean sharp scribe mark across the pump flange and the timing cover (Use a straight edge and a scribe) ...Line this up at reassembly and timing will be good
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