01 Duramax CKP sensor came apart

[BruceFritts]

Working on a customers 01 Sierra with the dmax 6.6... Had a code lost comms with inj mod. Mod checks ok. So went to replace CKP sensor . It fell apart when I took the mtg bolt out. Unfortunately the round part is way stuck in the mounting port .. btw I Did not pry on it Tried nearly everything to extract it. Wondering if removing the 2 bolts holding the mtg port to the cover will allow me to remove the whole port. Or will that open up a big can of worms and cause me to have to pull the entire front cover. Customer is elderly on limited funds or I would have already done that. Anybody have any input.
Thanks

[DmaxMaverick]

What part of it separated from what part? Is it just the plastic that separated from the brass, or did the brass break below the port (like at the O-ring groove)? If the brass broke, leaving the tip of the sensor inside the port, maybe try a spiral EZ-Out or lag bolt to get it to turn and gently pull on it. If only the plastic separated from the brass, you should be able to use the EZ-Out or lag bolt method, or pry it with a thin screwdriver. The brass is a cup shape with a mushroom head on it the plastic fits into. Look at your replacement part for a better picture of what you're working with. In any case, the sensor tip is very close the the steel reluctor wheel inside, so it won't go far if pushed inward.

As far as removing the port assy and your customer's financial position, I can't say. I don't believe it would be a can of worms, but I've never removed that part. Maybe a good topic to search on YouTube. I don't see how it could be any more simple than it appears. My concern would be more in the line of getting it sealed afterward. Perhaps RTV, if a gasket isn't available for it. My diagrams don't show it in detail, so it's hard to say. It may be a rubber-type gasket or an O-ring, which would surely simplify things.

[BruceFritts]

All that is left in the port is the brass housing.i tried to pry it out with a pick and a small screwdriver but it didn't budge. I was going to try an EZ out next but I was worried about the reluctor whell getting damaged.. Will try and let you know .Your prompt reply is greatly appreciated...Thanks agsinQUOTE=DmaxMaverick;338312]What part of it separated from what part? Is it just the plastic that separated from the brass, or did the brass break below the port (like at the O-ring groove)? If the brass broke, leaving the tip of the sensor inside the port, maybe try a spiral EZ-Out or lag bolt to get it to turn and gently pull on it. If only the plastic separated from the brass, you should be able to use the EZ-Out or lag bolt method, or pry it with a thin screwdriver. The brass is a cup shape with a mushroom head on it the plastic fits into. Look at your replacement part for a better picture of what you're working with. In any case, the sensor tip is very close the the steel reluctor wheel inside, so it won't go far if pushed inward.

As far as removing the port assy and your customer's financial position, I can't say. I don't believe it would be a can of worms, but I've never removed that part. Maybe a good topic to search on YouTube. I don't see how it could be any more simple than it appears. My concern would be more in the line of getting it sealed afterward. Perhaps RTV, if a gasket isn't available for it. My diagrams don't show it in detail, so it's hard to say. It may be a rubber-type gasket or an O-ring, which would surely simplify things.[/QUOTE]

[DmaxMaverick]

If the brass cup is all that's left in there, rotating it won't hurt anything. It doesn't contact or surround the reluctor wheel, it's merely positioned close to it, so the sensor can detect the "teeth" passing. Even if you bumped it slightly, well, it's brass vs. hardened steel. The EZ-Out is up/down situation. While engaging the brass by twisting, it may twist the brass in the bore, but too much force tries to expand it, worsening the problem. If there isn't any grease or vulnerable items nearby, I might try putting some heat on it. Maybe a solder iron in the cup could be enough. The brass will heat and expand in the bore, then contract as it cools, loosening it, perhaps as well as breaking any adhesive or corrosion bonds. An old trick that works on many things.

[BruceFritts]

Wow. What a novel idea. Thanks so much.. Gonna try it today. Thanks again

[More Power]

Have pics?