Heater hose "quick" disconnect....how to

[spongebob]

when putting on a new connector, is the "tool" used that took the connector off?

[DmaxMaverick]

No. The new connector should just "snap" on. The tool simply moves the pawls away from the swell for removal, like a shop air hose connector. Align the fitting squarely and push it on. If it seems to resist, twisting helps. It shouldn't take too much force, unless something isn't aligned or the seal has dislodged. You should feel it engage the lock. Tug back on it to check.

The quick connectors are used only to speed up factory assembly. I apply a swipe of dielectric grease to the fitting. It keeps the seal from gaining friction, which can damage or roll it. Repair procedures suggest lubing with coolant, which is probably OK. The Dielectric grease will (probably) still be effective if/when it has to come apart later.

[spongebob]

seems the "J" hose to the EGR came off...Its a new hose I replaced a year ago..any way I had both off the firewall when I pushed them back on there was no "click".. I'm running 100% water to see if it will continue to leak..it had for some time..a 1/4 cup of fluid at most.. $20 a gallon is steep for anti freeze.. when I replaced that "J" hose I replaced the thermostats...and the temp gauge has a wide swing now.. I used NAPA parts

[DmaxMaverick]

In my experience, the fittings rarely "click". They usually "snap" into lock, more like a detent falling into place, a slight feel, but rarely an audible click. I've never really liked the plastic connectors, but they aren't that bad, and last years. They can be eliminated, if you want. Traditional hose clamp connections have failings of their own.

Good idea running all water until you get it sorted out. As long as the weather allows it, you aren't wasting expensive coolant. I've done that a few times over the years. You don't want to do that for too long, as the system needs the coolant for lubrication and corrosion resistance.

[spongebob]

it's driving me nuts, the leak at the firewall seems to be intermittent.

[DmaxMaverick]

Where on or from the firewall are you seeing coolant? If it's just dripping from a location, it doesn't mean that's where the leak is. Your other post started at the driver side, then the heater connector, not on the drier side. I don't know what might be on the driver side firewall that could leak coolant, unless it's being sprayed/squirted, or running there from somewhere else. If you're just finding it on the ground, it could be almost anything. The most common coolant leak (on essentially every GM light Diesel, since forever), is the frost plug block heater. Incidentally, it's on the driver side.

[spongebob]

The only leak I can find so far is at the hvac heater connectors but not all the time, on the floor it's on the driver's side.
I was figuring it leaked down on the engine and dropped down on the driver's side...BUT im also hearing theres a rubber hose, maybe on a oil cooler. thats on the back side of the engine on the driver's side.. I'll check the block heater too.
thanks for your time on this..

[DmaxMaverick]

I'm not certain about the LBZ, but other models have coolant passages through the tranny adapter, and may also supply coolant to the cooler. Any connection should be suspect until eliminated. Intermittent leaks are usually related to plastic connectors, such as the heater core hoses, but I think the remain connectors are soft sealed metal (O-ring, etc.), like the fuel and ATF lines. They can leak, of course, but rarely intermittent. The coolant system pressure fluctuates regularly, and can contribute to an intermittent condition. If you can make a guess when the leaking is happening, try loosening the coolant cap, if high heat or overheating isn't an issue at the time. Taking away the pressure can help identify a cause of an intermittent leak.