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6.5L Turbo Diesel 1992-00 6.5TD - Discussion forum for the 6.5L engine.

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Old 10-31-2017, 12:58 PM
94 at Large's Avatar
94 at Large 94 at Large is offline
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Nashville, NC
Posts: 42
Question Harmonic Balancer

Assuming I have all the necessary tools, how much time and difficulty can I expect when pulling and replacing the harmonic balancer and crankshaft pulley on a 94? Anything else I should be looking at/for while doing the job? Asking this in the first person but will be having a local shop do the work. I realize they can probably quote me a price but having a little insight of what some of the members have run into will give me some idea of potential cost overall.

94 K2500, Ram Air, Banks 3" Exhaust, Soot Trap Delete, 3.73 Gears, OPS Bypass, Carter LP, Tank Sock Delete, Lift Pump Pre-filter
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Old 10-31-2017, 01:07 PM
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More Power More Power is offline
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Big Sky Country
Posts: 10,267

You'll need a damper puller (necessary) and installer (make it easier and safer for the related engine components).
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Old 10-31-2017, 01:39 PM
JeepSJ JeepSJ is online now
Jeep Freak
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Feeniks, Aridzona
Posts: 1,101

With all the proper tools, well under an hour. Change the belt. Inspect the rubber in the lower pulley - if the damper is shot, it is likely the rubber in the lower pulley isn't too far behind.
1987 Jeep Grand 6.5 in process...diamond block, 18:1's, other goodies...

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Old 10-31-2017, 02:32 PM
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DmaxMaverick DmaxMaverick is offline
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: CA
Posts: 11,881

Tools at the ready, the service manual shows 1.0 hrs. It also shows .75 hrs if it's warranty (apparently, the warranty tech's aren't afforded the requisite union break). This is for R/R of the starter (installation of the flywheel lock), belt, dampener, pulley, and front main seal (highly recommended, if original or 10+ yrs). I've done a few, and that sounds about right. Much easier on a lift, but it doesn't affect the time much, if at all, compared to a creeper. A new crank bolt is recommended, probably rightfully, but I've reused many without issue. Use blue Loc-Tite on a clean bolt (a new OEM bolt should have the thread locker already applied). Torque is ~200 ft/lb.
1985 Blazer 6.2
2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
2014 Chevy Cruze Diesel - Fabulous car, no problems at all, but sold Nov. 2016 @ 55K miles.
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Old 10-31-2017, 04:03 PM
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artfull dodger artfull dodger is offline
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Kokomo, Indiana
Posts: 8

Is there anybody near Kokomo with the tools and know how to do my damper and pulley on my '94? While it looks fine right now, she is due and I would feel better if both were brand new AC Delco parts. I think she is also getting due for a fresh starter. Cranking RPM isnt where I like it as it gets colder and yes all the grounds have been cleaned and so forth(batteries are both just over 1 year old). Thanks Mike and Michele T
Silly NT's....I have Asperger's!
1994 Chevy C2500 6.5td
SSDiesel Heatsync
4L80e built
150K miles and counting
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Old 11-15-2017, 01:44 PM
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94 at Large 94 at Large is offline
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Nashville, NC
Posts: 42
Default Update

FYI, took shop a bit longer than an hour to change out harmonic balancer. Everything came off OK but when it came time to put the Fluidampr on it would not go. Multiple attempts to ensure it started straight and it would go on a bit and stop. Even hammering on the darn thing wouldn't move it. (LOL, jk to see if you are actually reading this) Ended up having to call the company to find out the ID of the harmonic balancer to make sure we had the right part. ID was 1.5995 with a 10k +-. Crank was supposed to be 1.0602. Mic'ed ok but ended up using a barrel sander to take a little off the Fluidampr. Once that was done it slipped on easily. Don't know if there was some kind of coating on the balancer and it was on the small end of their tolerance to begin with or perhaps a slight taper. I am never surprised when stuff like this comes up when working on this truck. It's always something. Anyway, a heads up just in case anyone has the same issue.

On a side note, the OEM balancer and pulley were still good to go, IMO, but I felt justified, all the same, to replace with more durable parts. Age had me more concerned as my mileage is only 87k miles.
94 K2500, Ram Air, Banks 3" Exhaust, Soot Trap Delete, 3.73 Gears, OPS Bypass, Carter LP, Tank Sock Delete, Lift Pump Pre-filter
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Old 11-17-2017, 05:39 AM
Dvldog8793 Dvldog8793 is offline
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Grand Rapids MN 55744
Posts: 1,631

FYI- I had the same issue with both the fluidampers I installed. They both had to be debured and polished a bit. I think they make them a tight fit and expect 50% of us to have to polish them up to get a good fit. on my second one I considered warming up the damper in my rod oven and the cooling the crank nose...but I could feel machine marks in the damper so I just cleaned it up and it went on.
1996 Chvy 3500 CCDWLB 6.5 Heathed, NO vac, marine injctrs, ARB bumper, BIG pipe, 3" lift, bright lights, bypass oil system.
1986 Chvy 6.2 M1009 blazer RAM AIR, Headers, Custom interior
2001 Chinook RV, V10 gas
1974 John Deere 1530 diesel tractor
1993 John Deere 455 Diesel lawn mower
1967 GTO, 1989 Honda Transalp
2009 VW Jetta TDI, flashed and piped, 6speed, fun car!
1998 6.5 suburban, stock, daughter's
1993 6.5 3500 CCSWLB GM8, Heathed, big exhaust, gauges, Son's

1984 6.2 ATS turbo 3500, SCDWLB - Son's
3 kids, 1 wife, 1 dog
Gunsmith, Tactics Instructor, Fabricator USMC 87-93 Semper Fi!
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