Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: diesel to gas

  1. #1

    Default diesel to gas

    i know everyone is going gas to diesel, but i'm actually thinking about getting rid of my 6.5 td in my 95 3500, for a 454 gasser. i can't find any info on a diesel to gas swap. anyone done it or know where i can find info?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Yukon Canada
    Posts
    1,612

    Default

    Hi
    Going from diesel to gas is fairly simple.Why are you considering the switch?
    GM motor mounts are all the same when it comes to motors that were installed into gm trucks.If you use a tbi motor you will need the computer to go with it.carberated would be way easyer.
    Are you having problems with the diesel?93 is probley one of the most wanted year of the 6.5,no computer controls for the motor.Lots of info in other forums if you are having problems with the diesel
    Good Luck
    Thomas
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  3. #3

    Default

    thanks for the info. is the radiator the same? well i have heard alot of bad things about these 6.5's. i just picked up a 95 with a really clean body / frame. i plow with it and it runs really hot. i may need a new radaitor. i'll check out the other forums for help witht his motor. i was always a gasser guy. much easier to work on for me.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    South Central Pennsylvania, USA
    Posts
    2,697

    Default

    New radiator and the cooling upgrade are a heck of a lot easier than a motor swap!
    '94 GMC 6.5TD K1500 4L80E 2-Door Yukon SLE 221K
    '93 Chevrolet 6.5TD K2500HD NV4500 Std. Cab Longbed 187K
    '85 Toyota 22R RN60 4x4 Std. Cab Shortbed 178K (Currently retired for rebuild)
    Diesel Page Member #2423

  5. #5

    Default

    yeah, i put a 180 temp t-stat in it. ( it has a new water pump already) it helped but the truck still gets pretty hot under a load and with the plow on. next step is the rad. i think the upper part is clogged.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    ZEPHYRHILLS, FL
    Posts
    193

    Default

    Plowing trucks with 6.5's are known to run a bit hot. Make sure your plow isn't blocking your grille and the vents in the bumper. Next step is to run an OEM T-STAT ONLY! The aftermarket ones are known for all kinds of problems in the 6.5's as the bypass spring is the wrong tension in them. The 99+ water pump along with a good HD fan clutch and a DMAX fan blade should eliminate your overheating. If it doesn't then you've got some issues with the 6.5 that require attention.
    1995 GMC 2500 SUBURBAN powered by 01 DURAMAX/ALLISON, 3.42 gears, 261 T-case
    Trans has a mild build with ALOT of help from MIKE L. which included ALTO's for C1-C4 and a PI ML converter
    DIAMONDEYE 4" exhaust with a CORSA muffler, AFE stage 1 dry filter, EFILIVE, KENNEDY single pump and pump rub kit.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    South Central Pennsylvania, USA
    Posts
    2,697

    Default

    Even towing my Bobcat with my '93 I've never had overheating issues. Although, I cannot say that I've towed with the plow mounted as well. But it would seem that the combination of towing the Bobcat with the plow mounted would mean winter weather and low ambient temperatures vs. just towing the Bobcat which more often means summer weather and higher ambient temperatures.

    The cooling upgrade mentioned is like this one from Kennedy (others assemble similar kits). Basically, it converts the single thermostat setup of the earlier models over to the dual thermostat / high flow water pump setup of the later models.
    '94 GMC 6.5TD K1500 4L80E 2-Door Yukon SLE 221K
    '93 Chevrolet 6.5TD K2500HD NV4500 Std. Cab Longbed 187K
    '85 Toyota 22R RN60 4x4 Std. Cab Shortbed 178K (Currently retired for rebuild)
    Diesel Page Member #2423

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    ZEPHYRHILLS, FL
    Posts
    193

    Default

    It has been proven now that the 99+ with the spin-on fan clutch is a far better water pump. The 97-99 HO pump has a balance flow problem where only roughly 20% of the coolant will go to the passenger side where overheating is the biggest concern. The 99.5+ with the pin on fan clutch has proven to flow roughly 40-45% of the coolant down that side and has eliminated alot of overheating problems for many people now. The single T-stat housing is also reccomended now over the dual housing. The dual housing doesn't have the plunger on the T-stat to block the bypass when the stats open and this can cause reduced radiator flow. I know that there is a shop out there who has been published that has done extensive testing on this and has proven that the 99.5+ spin-on water pump with a single t-stat housing along with an OEM stat has dramatically helped in evening out the heating and virtually eliminating overheating in many a 6.5 that used to run hot.
    1995 GMC 2500 SUBURBAN powered by 01 DURAMAX/ALLISON, 3.42 gears, 261 T-case
    Trans has a mild build with ALOT of help from MIKE L. which included ALTO's for C1-C4 and a PI ML converter
    DIAMONDEYE 4" exhaust with a CORSA muffler, AFE stage 1 dry filter, EFILIVE, KENNEDY single pump and pump rub kit.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •