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Thread: Cutting off but will start back up

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Location
    Manassas va
    Posts
    8

    Default Cutting off but will start back up

    First question is, how long should I idle the vehicle before driving it?
    I ask because it seems once it warmed up it drives okay but I don't remember having this issue before.
    Appreciate any advice thanks.
    6.5L currently the weather is warm

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,292

    Default

    Welcome to TDP...

    A little more info would help.
    Year of the vehicle/model
    Stick shift or auto trans.

    Exactly what is happening ????

    Is this something new that has popped up or has it been going on for a while????
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    66

    Default

    Yea def need more details.. kinda sounds like your loosing prime. Does it fire up and run for a few minutes or less then just die? Then takes a bunch of cranking to get it back going again?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Location
    Manassas va
    Posts
    8

    Default

    You Guys are correct I need to provide more info and thank you for replying.
    So it"s a 2001 Workhorse 138k miles it's a food truck.
    The stalling started about 3 - 4 weeks ago at first it was stalling only at idle speed, but recently cursing about 30 mph she has quit on me. It always starts back up and will drive a few feet then cuts off again, but the last time it happened after shutting off 3 times it seem to have warmed up and I was able to drive home.
    Some history I've owned this truck for a year now, everything was going good with the engine until about 3 months ago when water got into my gas tank.
    I believe I got the water out and it's ran pretty good since, for periods of time like 2 - 3 weeks. I've changed about 6 fuel filters, bleed the system though the top of the filter with the fuel cap off. Kind of scared that my luck is going to run out and get stranded on the road.
    I do have a "service engine soon" light but that has always come on and off in the past.
    But I'm thinking it time to get a good download of codes and get my Idle speed check or adjusted because it's computerized on this model.
    Oh and it is an automatic transmission.
    Thanks

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,574

    Default

    Thank you for the update. Yes, it's time to pull the codes and see what the computer is complaining about. Pull a fuel sample and let it sit in a glass jar overnight. Post a pic of it. If you pumped water from a fuel supplier, it's possible you got more than just water (biological).
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Location
    Manassas va
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Got it!!
    Final fix R&R "The Fuel Module Driver" or FSD (Fuel Solenoid Driver) if you will.
    The reason I decided to change it without getting the codes from the Eng, Was a few reasons, in doing the research it seems that the codes are not too reliable and that's coming from someone that work on them (diesels) frequently and this person was the one that suggested that I change the module.
    Also trying to get someone (mobile mechanic) to come to the truck to get the codes is expensive and waiting time is about a week. Finally changing the Module was easy - yea I got lucky- some one already did a mod and the Driver Module is mounted on the front frame in front of the engine, easy access just four screws five minute job.
    So $490 including $20. for overnight shipping, swapped it out ops check good.
    Thanks guys really appreciate all your help

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Location
    Manassas va
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Okay thank you

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,574

    Default

    For some reason I'm not aware of, your posts have been moderated (hidden until approved by a mod/admin), and no notices were sent to me. I'm not sure what happened. If you post again and it doesn't show up immediately, send me an email or use the "Contact Us" link at the bottom of the pages, and I'll correct it. The issue should resolve itself, but let us know if it doesn't.

    Pulling codes is not complicated or expensive. Simple OBD II code readers are less than $20, and Bluetooth/WiFi/USB adapters are often less than that (pairs with a smartphone/tablet/PC/laptop, and is used with free app --look for ELM-327 at Amazon or Ebay and Torque at the app stores). Even if this issue is resolved, I highly recommend you get one or the other in any case.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,292

    Default

    What Maverick said

    Get a scanner that will read codes as well as erase them.

    THEN YOU CAN SEE IF ANY COMES BACK.

    The PMD/FSD Module or whatever nasty name you choose to call it will rarely leave a code.

    I have seen some indications on the OBD1 rigs....Usually they just quit or won't start....

    The full throttle failures are the exciting ones

    Seen a few rigs galloping across parking lots with tires screaming in protest.

    Glad you got it fixed.

    Get a spare PMD with the resistor and keep in the glove box.....just in case on a cold dark night...
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

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