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Thread: Dually SRW swap

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Nashville Tennessee!
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    Default Dually SRW swap

    so my brother has a 98 K3500 crewcab and i've got a 95 K2500


    he wants SRW and i want a dually.

    what is the easiest way to do this?


    i know there are adapters for my font end but what about his front?


    would it be easier to just change the whole hub?

    how much of this is interchangeable.
    95 Sierra, K2500, 4x4: $1,000.00................
    two new heads and headbolt sets: $951.00..
    Miscellanious gaskets parts etc: $1,000.00...

    Having a reliable truck that will get my
    camper, my jeep, my girlfriend, me,
    and some of our stuff, to Nashville to start
    my music career: Priceless.......................

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
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    CA
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    13,576

    Arrow

    It's hard to say, with a 95/98. Your 2500 must be an HD (8600 GVWR) to consider it. Measure and compare the components. You may luck out and have a direct swap of the control arms-out. The rear should be a no-brainer, for the most part. Steering and brake components (like the master cylinder) may or may not be an issue.

    What about the beds? Are they the same size? Are you planning a swap of those, as well? Duals under a fleetside bed won't work, and singles under a dually bed looks just plain silly.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    New Hampshire - Live Free or Die
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    6,058

    Default

    Swap trucks....

    The Constitution needs to be re-read, not re-written!

    If you can't handle Dr. Seuss, how will you handle real life?

    Current oil burners: MB GLK250 BlueTEC, John Deere X758
    New ride: MB GLS450 - most stately
    Gone but not forgotten: '87 F350 7.3, '93 C2500 6.5, '95 K2500 6.5, '06 K2500HD 6.6, '90 MB 350SDL, Kubota 7510

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    SE Wisconsin
    Posts
    488

    Default

    I think you can just remove the dually adapters in the front. Unbolt them, put on the single wheels and and see if the track is the same. The adapters are just bolted to the studs on the front rotor. What I am not sure is if you can bolt the adapter to the 2500 rotor.

    You may want to go to something like Rock Auto and do some part # comparisons.
    1993 K3500 - Peninsular 18:1 engine, marine injectors, high capacity cooling, AL Core Radiator, 3" DP and 4" exhaust, ISSPRO Gauges, Girdle, AMSOIL Dual Oil Filter System, 1997 Air Filter(trashed the K&N), 395K on Body, 165k on engine.
    1997 GMC Savana - 6.5 TD
    1966 CJ5 - V6 Gas - highly modified
    1967 Jeepster - Stock
    1986 Jeep CJ7 - Stock
    1993 Grand Cherokee - 6.2 diesel
    2007 Grand Cherokee - 3.0 diesel

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Nashville Tennessee!
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    Default

    lol, i would love a crew cab dually but his is kind of rough.

    dont get me wrong its got all the bells and whistles mine does but the engine is a 454 that is almost on its last leg.

    i tried getting him to buy that fubar'd duramax engine off ebay for 2k a while back but he didnt have the money.




    i'll definetely be looking into that front end spacer thing.

    i wasn't aware thats all they did.


    yes my truck is the 8600GV


    the only down side is i dont want 4.10's

    so i may make him keep his rear and i'll just get the spacers for the back.
    95 Sierra, K2500, 4x4: $1,000.00................
    two new heads and headbolt sets: $951.00..
    Miscellanious gaskets parts etc: $1,000.00...

    Having a reliable truck that will get my
    camper, my jeep, my girlfriend, me,
    and some of our stuff, to Nashville to start
    my music career: Priceless.......................

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    SE Wisconsin
    Posts
    488

    Default

    The dually rear is actually narrower than a single wheel truck, so you would need the dually rear end. The gears on a 14bolt are not that hard to change.
    1993 K3500 - Peninsular 18:1 engine, marine injectors, high capacity cooling, AL Core Radiator, 3" DP and 4" exhaust, ISSPRO Gauges, Girdle, AMSOIL Dual Oil Filter System, 1997 Air Filter(trashed the K&N), 395K on Body, 165k on engine.
    1997 GMC Savana - 6.5 TD
    1966 CJ5 - V6 Gas - highly modified
    1967 Jeepster - Stock
    1986 Jeep CJ7 - Stock
    1993 Grand Cherokee - 6.2 diesel
    2007 Grand Cherokee - 3.0 diesel

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Nashville Tennessee!
    Posts
    133

    Default

    dually rear ends are wider than SRW

    so the inside dual tracks in the same line as the front wheel.



    the kits come with a spacer to compensate for this.


    its about 1.5 inch thick.

    http://www.arrowcraft.com/arrowcraft...3&pagenumber=1
    95 Sierra, K2500, 4x4: $1,000.00................
    two new heads and headbolt sets: $951.00..
    Miscellanious gaskets parts etc: $1,000.00...

    Having a reliable truck that will get my
    camper, my jeep, my girlfriend, me,
    and some of our stuff, to Nashville to start
    my music career: Priceless.......................

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Yukon Canada
    Posts
    1,621

    Default

    Hi
    Daully rear ends trac both wider and narrower than the srw diffs.The wide ones are for trucks with pickup boxs,and the narrow ones are for cab and chassis.I happen to have both sitting in my parts pile.You can convert a srw diff to dauls by changing the backing plates and drums fror a daully diff.The daul wheels wouln't go over the srw drums.But if you change a pickup daully rear diff to srw the trac will be way off and will look odd.And if you change a srw to daulls you will have to cut out your wheel wells in a pickup box.I was going to put dauls on a srw diff on one of my trucks.Was going to cut the wheel wells out of the box,then it wouldn't be as wide as the dually trucks are,but i wouldn't be able to haul anything that was 4ft wide between the wheels,eg a camper.I think the look would be nice the duals would stick out a little,a flare would take care of that.
    Have fun
    Thomas
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Nashville Tennessee!
    Posts
    133

    Default

    so all else aside with the rear.

    i need some suggestions for the front or this isnt going to happen.
    95 Sierra, K2500, 4x4: $1,000.00................
    two new heads and headbolt sets: $951.00..
    Miscellanious gaskets parts etc: $1,000.00...

    Having a reliable truck that will get my
    camper, my jeep, my girlfriend, me,
    and some of our stuff, to Nashville to start
    my music career: Priceless.......................

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,576

    Arrow

    Quote Originally Posted by Wing Nut OOA View Post
    so all else aside with the rear.

    i need some suggestions for the front or this isnt going to happen.
    As I mentioned earlier, measure and compare front end components and the frame mounting points. If they match up, replace the fronts from the control arms-out, which will likely also include the torsion bars. Only 4 bolts, and the correct hub and brake components go where they need to.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Hancock MD
    Posts
    49

    Default

    why replace a arms and all? act like you are installing new rotors and wheel bearings strip each truck down one side at a time and switch them over only real difference up front is the dually adapter on the rotors (which you may be able to unbolt cant remember).. rears its really as easy as measuring drum to drum on both trucks and seeing how close they are.. I know of few guys running the narrow DRW axle with duals on a truck with normal bed... just use a small fender flare to cover the tires (since they dont stick out as far as normal duals)

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    West Virginia
    Posts
    299

    Default

    It's been a few years, but I remember looking at my friends '95 K-3500, and the front adaptors looked like they just bolt on over the hub assmby. As in, by the looks of it in my memory, you could in theory, un bolt the adaptor for duallys, and bolt on a reg single wheel rim, with the correct lug nuts.

    My guess is you could swap adaptors on the front, swap drums and backing plates on the rear, keep your own front rotors and calipers, and front and rear gears, and be good to go...

    But haveing both trucks side by side, on jack stands with the tires/rims off, and a tape measure and note pad in your hand, and your thinking cap on, you'd be able to tell the diffrences easy enough. Just compair one to the other very closely.

    Good luck... Duallys are nice... I've got a few... my chevy is a wanna be, still has single wheels on front, but I've run dual rears for a few years when it was a work truck.

    Greg
    '84 K-30 former CUCV 6.2L turbo/TH400/NP208, soon to be D60/Corp14FF, 35" radial mudders, or 39.5" boggers- Sweet soundnin' 3.5" exhaust, no muffler. Farm truck, play toy, water hauler.
    '86 K-30 dump truck project will have: 6.2L TD/4sp/NP205/4.10's dually flatbed dump
    Work trucks:
    '99 E-350 dually cut-away stahl utility box van. 7.3L Powerstoke/4R100 auto
    '00 F-350 Ext cab, 4x4, utility bed work truck. 7.3L Powerstoke/4R100 auto/NP271/D60/Sterling 10.5" 4.10 gears, DIY intake mod, muffler delete, and now DP-Tuner with stock/hi idle/40hp tow/decel/80hp econo settings.

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