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Thread: Remove engine/gearbox 1993 6.5 turbo diesel

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
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    Norway, Sortland
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    Default Remove engine/gearbox 1993 6.5 turbo diesel

    Hello

    I have recently started a project with a 1993 Chevrolet K2500, where the gearbox is done for, and the engine is in need of some tlc.
    (Automatic overdrive transmission)

    I have not removed this kind of engine before (lifted it out), only smaller V6, straight fours..

    So far i have only started to remove some of the salad on the engine, and unfortunately i dont have access to a car lift, so i have to it all standing firmly on terra nova..

    I will have access underneath the car, to be able to get of exhaust pipes, engine mounts and so on...

    But is it possible to pull the engine, with the transmission still attached, or do i have to split them to get them out ?

    Sorry for the dumb question...

    FastFWD

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Martinsville, IN
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    Default

    Hi,

    I suppose that it could be done as a unit, but you will need to be able to tilt the whole thing nose up to get it to clear. I only pulled an engine/transmission this way one time way back in the 80s on a Nova. With the extreme tilt angle, you will need a very high ceiling and a lift with the ability to lift the unit to clear the radiator support. I do not recommend this approach.

    It is far better to split the engine from the transmission. When I am removing both, I remove the transmission first, then the engine. When I install both, I install the engine first, then the transmission. It seems to work better that way. I've done this hundreds of times, so there is experience behind these recommendations.

  3. #3
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    Default

    Hello

    Thanx for the feedback, really appreciate it.

    Since the car is standing outside - ceiling clearing isn't any issue
    I have the possibility to lift very high with my tractor, and its lifting beam attachment on the front loader.

    I will remove the whole front (grille, radiator and so on) to get full clearance.

    Ideally i would like to drop the engine, but as it sits - i will not be able to split the gearbox from the engine (not enough ground clearance)

    I will probably muster a couple of my friends, and a couple of beers, and see if i cant shoehorn the sucker out of there

    Thanx again for your feedback

    FastFWD

    Quote Originally Posted by ronniejoe View Post
    Hi,

    I suppose that it could be done as a unit, but you will need to be able to tilt the whole thing nose up to get it to clear. I only pulled an engine/transmission this way one time way back in the 80s on a Nova. With the extreme tilt angle, you will need a very high ceiling and a lift with the ability to lift the unit to clear the radiator support. I do not recommend this approach.

    It is far better to split the engine from the transmission. When I am removing both, I remove the transmission first, then the engine. When I install both, I install the engine first, then the transmission. It seems to work better that way. I've done this hundreds of times, so there is experience behind these recommendations.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
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    13,573

    Arrow

    Welcome aboard!

    As RJ said, it is not easy, and not recommended.

    However, if you remove the front clip, it is much easier. You won't need the high angle. It will simply be lifted to clear the radiator support (if you haven't removed that) and roll out the front. Removing the fenders furthers the access and simplicity. If you have grill and body/fender work to do, do it all at the same time, then reinstall in the reverse order. The more that is removed, the easier it will be, overall.

    Also, if the engine and transmission must come out separately, support the engine with a lift, remove the engine mounts, and lower the engine for MUCH easier access to the bell housing bolts. The engine and tranny can then be separated and removed, separately.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  5. #5
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    Apr 2018
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    Norway, Sortland
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    Default

    I have talked with a friend of mine, and discussed the different ways of removing the engine/gearbox.

    We have concluded that we will try to remove it in one piece up front.

    I support ronniejoes concern in regards of lifting it up and out in one piece, and i am not looking forward to it - but hey, whats never done has to be tried to gain experience

    I will take some pictures before, during and after - and post them here on this forum.

    BTW
    I am using a program on my laptop "freedome VPN", it hides, or protetct my home ip address.
    But today when i rebooted, it was not turned on - and when trying to log into this forum, i got the flat nose - my ip address was banned ??
    When i turned on the freedome software, that currently tells everyone i am i oslo norway, everything was fine ?

    Has my 4 year old kid been an ******* on this forum without me knowing ??... i cant imagine its my wife.. That would be the day...

    Edit
    Sent a message to admin about the above mentioned issue..

    FastFWD

  6. #6
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    Default

    If you take the radiator support out, the job will be much easier, but I still don't recommend it. You will need some way to support the rear of the transmission with your lift. I have pulled engines using a tractor and loader before, so I've been there, done that. This picture is removing a Caterpillar C7 ACERT from a Freightliner M2 -- on the 31st of January 2017 when it was 20F outside.

    All you need to accomplish the split is a floor jack and some jackstands. I don't have a vehicle lift either.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Norway, Sortland
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    Default Transfer case linkage connectors/fasteners

    I have encountered a little snag in removing my engine on my K2500...
    The linkage arm on the transfer case (Engage/disengage) is fitted with a (for me) unknown type of press fitting ..
    Well it looks like a hard rubber pressed connector on each side on one of the linkage arms. Its is not threaded as far as i can see..

    I am afraid of breaking the rubber part if i use any more force on the connector..

    Has anybody had any experience with these "fantastic" connectors ?

    (Im almost seeing myself hacksawing the shi** out of the connectors..)

    FastFWD

  8. #8
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    Default

    Just carefully pry the steel rod out of the plastic retainer. I use a pry bar between the rod and shift arm. When you put it back, use a pair of channel locks to squeeze it through.

  9. #9
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    Default

    Thanks a bunch

    I was thinking of that, but i was afraid of breaking the bracket...
    But i will give it a try

    FastFWD

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by FastFWD View Post
    I was thinking of that, but i was afraid of breaking the bracket...
    Hence the "carefully" admonition.

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