Duramax Just Quit Running

[onlychild]

I was just ready to leave the drag strip last night after testing my race car. Got in, started the truck, and was ready to call my owner and let her know I was leaving. It was idling fine and the engine just quit as if I had turned off the key. We've got power and the starter turns the engine over just fine. It's just a no start.

This is a 2003 3500 DRW with 140k on the clock. About 30K ago I installed a set of injectors from JK. The truck is in good condition and I just replaced the headliner, has some leather replaced in the seats and I had the entire truck repainted (Florida sun just kills paint) as I plan on keeping it.

I have a couple of suspicions.

The bed was R&R'd to paint the front of it and the back of the cab. I'm wondering if a wire or hose pinched?

It has always just started right up. The past few days it's taken longer to start. I've heard some noise below and behind the drivers seat. Does this thing have a lift pump?

Yesterday on the way to the track a smokey ol' bubba truck passed me and I couold smell that but, that lingered longer than it should have.

I've got the idea that we may really have a minor issue though.

The truck is still at the track attached to my trailer and because I have to report for jury duty in the morning it may be a couple of days before I get it to a dealer.

Has anyone dealt with this before?

[cabletech]

Have you tried to pump the hand pump on the filter housing? There is no lift pump before the filter unless you have added one. If it starts after using the hand pump you likely have air getting into the fuel system. Also have you looked at all the fuses.

Jay

[onlychild]

Thanks, I didn't know there was a hand pump. Where is it? Didn't know there wasn't a lift pump either. I had one fail on my 6.5. When I get back to the truck I'll some of the stuff I couldn't do before the track closed the gates.

I'll check that when I get there.

I worked my butt off on my 6.5, did all the work and all the fixes, but, I've had this one 12 years and it' the very first time I've had trouble with it. Well, the seat heater malfunctioned on a 95 degree day but, that's it.

I'll take my code reader with me, too.

[DmaxMaverick]

The fuel priming pump is on top of the fuel filter unit. The cylindrical thing sticking up. Just press down. I suggest opening/removing the bleed screw and count the pumps until you get fuel. It's the plastic screw, inboard, on top of the filter unit. A nut driver is preferred over a screwdriver (it's plastic), and it doesn't have to be too tight, as it has an O-ring seal.. More than about 10-20 full pumps and it was dry enough to lose prime (the high pressure pump will not self-prime). Once fuel is at the top, close the bleeder and pump until it's hard (this primes the high pressure pump).

[EdHale]

My '06 LBZ has 190,000 on the clock and that plastic bleed screw scared me enough through the years I bought the aluminum one from JK. I assume he still sells it - great addition. IMHO

[DmaxMaverick]

My '06 LBZ has 190,000 on the clock and that plastic bleed screw scared me enough through the years I bought the aluminum one from JK. I assume he still sells it - great addition. IMHO

Mine is stainless steel (Lubrication Specialist). I gave my original plastic screw to a friend who cracked his while camping in the desert a few years ago (2003 model). I replaced the original plastic screw for the same reason long before then. It looked like something that could fail at any time, for a variety of reasons. If the bleeder doesn't seal, the engine doesn't run (in OEM configuration). Actual failures have been rare, but they have happened. If GM or Parker really needed to save 20 cents, they surely could have done it somewhere else.