Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: 1993 exchange for 1998 6.5 Turbo Diesel

  1. #1

    Unhappy 1993 exchange for 1998 6.5 Turbo Diesel

    We have this 1993 Chev HD 3/4 ton 4x4 6.5 Turbo Diesel extended cab the engine is has suffered enough with over 450,000 klm a new drivers side head and now a cracked cylinder. The truck is to beautiful and to much work into keeping it new to scrap, it has been like trying to put down an old dog for 5 months now and to repair the original engine $$$$$.$$. A 1998 6.5 Diesel engine has come our way at a cost we can't refuse is there some differences we should know before saying yes.
    Greatfull if someone could help.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    New Hampshire - Live Free or Die
    Posts
    6,058

    Default

    If you can get the oil cooler and lines from the '98 it'll be a cake walk.

    the '98 has bigger lines and fittings. Don't neck them down to fit the '93 as the '98 oil flow rate is higher. Also, '98 cooling parts will interfere with the mechanical pump.
    The Constitution needs to be re-read, not re-written!

    If you can't handle Dr. Seuss, how will you handle real life?

    Current oil burners: MB GLK250 BlueTEC, John Deere X758
    New ride: MB GLS450 - most stately
    Gone but not forgotten: '87 F350 7.3, '93 C2500 6.5, '95 K2500 6.5, '06 K2500HD 6.6, '90 MB 350SDL, Kubota 7510

  3. #3

    Default Oil coolant lines

    Thanks for the info
    We have heard similar info while trying to decide to repair the existing engine. We think there were some modifications on this engine from the factory as there is one big 4 core steel radiator in the engine compartment with two huge tanks one side transmission coolant the other side oil coolant. Do you think we should we just block the oil coolant holes on the rad and get a separate smaller one just for the oil alone? The existing rad is 19 months in use and was hard to find, almost had to draw pictures when we were ordering, it took two times to get the right one and was very expensive, could this be the newer style oil coolant lines you speak of.
    Thank you again

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,292

    Default

    If this were my choice, I would plug off the old cooler and install a set of after market lines/hoses and cooler.

    As mentioned dont restrict the flow.

    The factory lines do leave a lot to be desired but if you can find a good set your good to go.

    Use a new set of quick connectors in the block if you go with stock lines.

    The O ring seal in used ones will usually leak after you remove the lines and reinstall.

    The after market stuff usually uses JIC fittings.

    The ready made "KITS" usually use stainless braided lines but its not absolutely necessary. Pressure hose thats rated for oil and heat will be fine.

    Almost any parts store can fix you up with reusable fittings/hose.

    Best of luck on the project

    Robyn
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  5. #5

    Default Good Idea

    Great Ideas from both of you and has helped a lot wouldn't have known with out JohnC and Robyn exactly just is a few more $ and a tape measure.
    Thanks again

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •