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Thread: 6.5L temperature issues

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  1. #1
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    Quote Originally Posted by trbankii View Post
    I'm dealing with a similar issue with my '94 Yukon - low coolant light comes on with coolant at normal levels and no overheating issues. If I mess with the wires going to the sensor, it usually goes off but comes back on again in a day or two.

    I need to pull the recovery tank to see if I can get better access to the sensor and wires to see what is going on.
    It is weird. My low coolant light will come on after the gauge goes all the way to hot, then when it drops back to normal the light will pop on.

    I just bought a new thermostat gonna throw it in here in few minutes see if that will fix the issue.

    Also, going to do an oil change. The smoke coming from the dipstick worries me quite a bit.

  2. #2
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    Feb 2006
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    When the eng. is at full operating temp. and you've been driving it, do you hear any bubbling from the coolant reservoir after you shut it down?

  3. #3
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    It's easy to find out what's huffing out of your crankcase. Stick a thick/smooth piece of steel in the freezer for an hour (bar stock works well, but it can be just about anything, just needs to stay very cold for a while). Leave in the dipstick. Remove the oil filler cap. Start engine. Hold the chilled piece in the vapor stream and see what condenses onto it. Beware of the spinning fan. The feel and odor can also be very telling. Soot/smoke, oil, and coolant are unique.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
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  4. #4
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    What Maverick said

    Another thought came to mind....has the engine been "BURPED"

    With the engine off...open the air bleeder valve on top of the T stat housing and allow any air to escape and add coolant to the coolant tank until coolant flows out the bleeder valve.

    These engines have to be bled out due to the way the coolant fill tank is situated and plumbed into the system.

    The coolant tank feeds into the lower radiator hose and the radiator and upper part of the system can have an air bubble.


    Once the stat opens the coolant will flow, but the bubble is still in there and needs to be bled out.

    See what shakes...
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jle1208 View Post
    My low coolant light will come on after the gauge goes all the way to hot, then when it drops back to normal the light will pop on.
    Did you mean to say "pop off"? That sort of behavior sounds a lot like there's a huge air bubble in the cooling system that's interfering with normal circulation of coolant. How the air got there is the big concern...

    (Yeah, what she said...)
    The Constitution needs to be re-read, not re-written!

    If you can't handle Dr. Seuss, how will you handle real life?

    Current oil burners: MB GLK250 BlueTEC, John Deere X758
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  6. #6
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    Feb 2019
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    Ohio
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnC View Post
    Did you mean to say "pop off"? That sort of behavior sounds a lot like there's a huge air bubble in the cooling system that's interfering with normal circulation of coolant. How the air got there is the big concern...

    (Yeah, what she said...)
    I have figured out the temp issue. I replaced the T stay and the temp stays where it needs to be. However, the light for “low coolant” light will still come and go.

    As for the smoke in the dipstick, had a friend of mine check it out. Not really sure what valve he said it was called. But, it goes into the motor little white piece. He pulled hose out of the part by turbo and put covered the hole. The smoke went away from the dipstick. Opened it back up an smoke came back. He said either that valve is probably clogged or something. Or a ring is out. However, I’m not certain still. I haven’t pulled the valve to check yet will be doing that tomorrow.

    Also, if any of y’all have any tips on how to get alittle more power out of this rig would be appreciated.

  7. #7
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    The "GIZMO" by the turbo is the CDR VALVE
    Crankcase depression valve.

    This valve allows the intake airflow into the turbo to create a small low pressure in the crankcase.

    The valve regulates this low pressure to a specific level to allow blowby from combustion to be removed.

    Does the engine still have the factory air cleaner and plumbing connected ???

    Seeing a whispy trail of vapor out the dipstick or the oil fill cap if removed (at engine idle) is not that uncommon on a high mile engine.

    To get more power....

    4 inch free flowing exhaust.

    A better turbo

    A power chip or ECM flash (96 and later needs the ECM FLASHED)

    Our member John Kennedy can help with the power mods.
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
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    Ohio
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robyn View Post
    The "GIZMO" by the turbo is the CDR VALVE
    Crankcase depression valve.

    This valve allows the intake airflow into the turbo to create a small low pressure in the crankcase.

    The valve regulates this low pressure to a specific level to allow blowby from combustion to be removed.

    Does the engine still have the factory air cleaner and plumbing connected ???

    Seeing a whispy trail of vapor out the dipstick or the oil fill cap if removed (at engine idle) is not that uncommon on a high mile engine.

    To get more power....

    4 inch free flowing exhaust.

    A better turbo

    A power chip or ECM flash (96 and later needs the ECM FLASHED)

    Our member John Kennedy can help with the power mods.
    Yes that is the one! And I’m going to guess that this truck does have all factory everything. It has 114k miles on her. Was a 1 owner. Old man I bought it off of.

    I’m new too diesels as you can tell, so some of my questions about what things are called may sound dumb. Haha. I’m going to check the air filters and things today, I am also going to do the complete oil change.

  9. #9
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    Feb 2019
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    Ohio
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    Well, did the oil change today, as well as burped the coolant.

    Crazy that the piece there going into the motor by the turbo is just a plastic piece of pvc. Is it supposed to be like that? Cause someone said you should be able to shake it and hear a piece rattle or something.

    Oil was blacker than black, got it all changed out with a pretty good new filter.

    Now, just gonna do the small other little things to try to get this engine tip top. Would definitely like to get some more power, as I pull a lot of horse trailers and really what I got this truck for.

    Does anyone know the bolt size for the front driveshaft? I have to install it yet. Have the shaft just not the bolts.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Ohio
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    I attached pictures of the pvc valve. If someone can tell me why it is just a plastic piece of pvc. Just doesn’t seem right to me.

    It presses down into the motor right by turbo, then has a hose connected to it that goes to in front of the turbo before the air filter where the hose is pressed into. I will get another picture as to where exactly it goes if someone doesn’t know what I’m trying to explain.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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