pitman arm on the 6.5

[rapidoxidationman]

Hopefully I'm posting to the right forum...
The pitman arm from the steering box to the drag link on my steering system is loose on the drag link end, the end with the ball joint. Shouldn't be a big deal sez I, I've got a pitman arm puller for one end and a pickle fork for the other. Picked up the part at the local Napa store and dropped the splash shield to change it out... What's this? A cross member on the frame to hold that big ole diesel engine that leaves barely room to fit a box wrench on the steering stud nut, to say nothing of any way of using the puller to remove the arm from the box. Calling anyone with the Helms manuals: What does it say about this? A simple part replacement now looks like a serious job; maybe pulling the steering box mounting bolts? Any input will help.
Regards,
Rapid

[tom.mcinerney]

I replaced pitman & idler arms last year. Had same initial reaction you wrote. Remember Helm instructed to remove idler arm pivot/bracket to get access with puller, it worked. And i think had to remove steer box bolts as you guessed, though maybe not all. I'll try remember check book tomorrow, think that's it.

[LucasEnglish]

It only takes 15min to pull the hole stearing box. I pulled mine. A local shop told me after I was done you can remove some bolts and twist the box so you can get your puller in there.

[rjschoolcraft]

I pulled the whole box out. It wasn't that hard. Check your idler arm too. I replaced both at the same time. Both were very loose.

[damork]

I did the job a year ago and pulled the gear out as well. It is easier than it appears - bought the puller from NAPA as well. Get yourself some new orings where the steering hoses connect to the gear so you go back together without leaks.

I know some talk about replacing the drag link with the gear in the truck but I don't see how you can do it without damaging something else and taking more time anyway.

[jeffreydmet]

I have the helm manuals and you can forget what they say if yours is like mine. It doesn't take very long to pull the whole steering box off anyway. I could not find a puller that would hold up to the force of the arm coming off and it wasn't so that you could put it in a press. I had to take a cut off wheel on my die grinder and actually cut the pitman arm off. It was not much fun and I had to grind slightly in to the steering box shaft But I could not see any other way of getting it off since mine was so tight.

[LanduytG]

Like others i pulled the whole thing. it is much easier to do that than fight it in place.

Greg

[rapidoxidationman]

Thanks! I'll try to tackle it this weekend and what was said about the idler arm on the other end of the drag link makes sense, I'll look at that closely as well. Winter's coming soon here and I just spent too much money on a new set of winter shoes for the truck; I'd hate to grind them down too fast cuz the front end won't stay straight. This may seem like a silly question but is there enough slack in the P/S hoses on the steering box to leave them in place or do they have to come off as well? Might be a good idea to keep a quart or so of fluid handy...
Regards,
Rapid

[GMCfourX4]

Just loosen/remove the bolts holding the box to the frame, and take the pitman arm off with the hoses still connected. You only have to move it a small amount to get a puller on there. While you're at it, do the idler arm and tie-rods, and get her aligned, front end work is too dirty and crappy to have to go back under there after each part wears.

-Chris

[Randee of the Redwoods]

I just had a local shop down the road do it for me. I had originally bought the pitman arm at Advance Autoparts for about $32 with plans on doing it myself. Well, it didn't pan out. The local garage replaced it for me for a reasonable $144 and change.

[Jim H.]

Not just a diesel problem. I had to replace it on my previous Suburban 1/2 ton and had the same problems.