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Thread: School me on fifth wheel campers

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    Default School me on fifth wheel campers

    The time is nearing for us to sell the LQ horse trailer and purchase a fifth wheel camper..

    For those of you that know them, what are some things to be concerned about as far as the model or brand camper. Most of the time it will only be me and the boss, but at times a couple grand kids may be along.

    Questions from me are mostly in the structural end, like do slide outs leak, are the moving motors known to quit, you know, questions for someone that hasn't owned a larger newer camper..

    We are use to camping, our horse trailer is large and has everything from real wood inside to onan genset and is fully self contained, it is all aluminum and not a light weight goose neck, so I'm use to pulling a larger unit..

    Just want to hear things to consider other than price, and yes we would go the used route @ around 35 feet long or so... later we would be spending a lot of time in it when retired and we only want to purchase once...
    1993 Chevy K3500

    owner - Twisted Steel Performance

    porting, ceramic & powder coating

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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Granby, Missouri, USA
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    Default

    Models or brands really don't mean much in the RV industry. For the most part, all 5th wheels and travel trailers are built of the same materials using the same procedures. They have pretty much the same appliances and construction. The best thing is to find a floor plan that fits your needs, and then have an RV expert look it over to check the condition of the unit. Water is the number one enemy of an RV, and hidden water damage can rear its ugly head later on down the road.

    Your living quarters horse trailer is built 300% better than a typical RV. Most trailers use light materials on a flimsy frame in order to keep weight down. They will not last nearly as long as your all-aluminum horse trailer.

    I would not plan on being able to purchase one used RV and having it last the rest of your retired life. In reality, especially if full-timing, you will need to replace the RV every 5 to 7 years. The exception to this rule is to purchase a new rig, and store it indoors when not in use (that's what I do... my travel trailer does not sit outside unless we are using it). Of course, this won't work for long term/full time use.

    I have been in the RV business for 25 years. They are called recreational vehicles for a reason: they are designed for solely recreational use. As long as you have realistic expectations, you will have a blast. However, I have experience with way too many customers who can't understand why they aren't built to last. The real reason? Most folks wouldn't be able to afford a properly built rig, and most folks wouldn't have a big enough truck to tow a properly built rig because it would be too heavy.

    Yes, slide rooms can leak, yes, slide room motors can fail and leave you stranded. I would avoid any RV that uses a Schwintek "in-wall" slideout system. Hydraulic slide outs are best, followed next by the standard "through frame" systems that use a motor underneath the slide, followed third by the cable operated slides. Schwinteks are finicky and don't like to work if things aren't square (which is often in the case of an RV).

    When shopping for a used RV, there are two things I always recommend:

    1. Make sure the fridge works. A typical RV fridge can cost between $1800 to $3900 (depending on the model). So a bad fridge can turn a "good deal" into a bad deal pretty quickly.

    2. Inspect thoroughly for water leaks. If you find soft spots in the ceiling, walls, or floors, walk away. It's very expensive to repair water damage, and the damage you see typically means there is a lot more damage you can't see.

    If you can find a trailer that is built like your horse trailer, that would be the best solution!

    I still love camping and RVing, but I want people to have realistic expectations when shopping for a rig.

    I hope this helps.

    Casey
    1995 K1500 Tahoe 2 door, 6.5LTD, 4L80E, NP241, 3.42's, 285/75R16 BFG K02's; 1997 506 block; Kennedy OPS harness, gauges, Quick Heat plugs, and TD-Max chip; Dtech FSD on FSD Cooler; vacuum pump deleted, HX35 turbo, Turbo Master, 3.5" Kennedy exhaust, F code intake; dual t/stats, HO water pump, Champion radiator; Racor fuel filter

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Knoxville,Tennessee
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    Default

    If you can avoid anything on Lippert frames or axles. A good place to look would be on RV.net. Good people there and a vast amount of information.


    As far as fridge goes, there is a company out of Canada that sells refrigeration units so you replace the guts not the entire unit.



    And get an RV Repair manual, it will save you $$$ if your a DIYer.
    "The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government."
    -Patrick Henry


    A5150nut
    2006 K3500 D/A
    94 6.5 4x4 5spd Sold

  4. #4
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    Oct 2001
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    Granby, Missouri, USA
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by a5150nut View Post
    If you can avoid anything on Lippert frames or axles.
    That will be tough. I'd venture to guess that 90% of the towable market is built on Lippert frames. I think they get an undeserved bad reputation, however, due to their large market share.

    Casey
    1995 K1500 Tahoe 2 door, 6.5LTD, 4L80E, NP241, 3.42's, 285/75R16 BFG K02's; 1997 506 block; Kennedy OPS harness, gauges, Quick Heat plugs, and TD-Max chip; Dtech FSD on FSD Cooler; vacuum pump deleted, HX35 turbo, Turbo Master, 3.5" Kennedy exhaust, F code intake; dual t/stats, HO water pump, Champion radiator; Racor fuel filter

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    San Marcos, TX
    Posts
    128

    Default Northwood Manufacuring

    Arctic Fox, Nash and ORV fifth wheels frames are HD and built by Northwood inhouse. No lippert frames. Check them out.
    Former 2003 Chev. D/A CC, Snug Top shell, Prodigy, 2003 Arctic Fox 30U, Alternator mt. fuel filter.....basically stock truck.

    2012 Ram Megacab 3500, Snug Top, same trailer, stock truck

    GO DUCKS

    GOD BLESS THOSE WHO PROTECT AND SERVE!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    Pauline, SC
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    Default

    Thanks everyone, we have reconsidered this and after looking at a few that are only 2-3yrs old, I'm keeping the horse trailer, it isn't quite as roomy but is like new and as said is 300% better built.. Back in 89, it was the #2 trailer Featherlite made, real oak wood, etc, folks look at it and can't believe it's 30+ years old, so I'll forget about a "camper"...
    1993 Chevy K3500

    owner - Twisted Steel Performance

    porting, ceramic & powder coating

    like us on Facebook

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Granby, Missouri, USA
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sctrailrider View Post
    Thanks everyone, we have reconsidered this and after looking at a few that are only 2-3yrs old, I'm keeping the horse trailer, it isn't quite as roomy but is like new and as said is 300% better built.. Back in 89, it was the #2 trailer Featherlite made, real oak wood, etc, folks look at it and can't believe it's 30+ years old, so I'll forget about a "camper"...
    All-aluminum construction and solid oak.... excellent choice! It'll be hard to beat the quality. It is ironic, though, that they named the trailer 'Featherlite,' since it is far from light!

    Casey
    1995 K1500 Tahoe 2 door, 6.5LTD, 4L80E, NP241, 3.42's, 285/75R16 BFG K02's; 1997 506 block; Kennedy OPS harness, gauges, Quick Heat plugs, and TD-Max chip; Dtech FSD on FSD Cooler; vacuum pump deleted, HX35 turbo, Turbo Master, 3.5" Kennedy exhaust, F code intake; dual t/stats, HO water pump, Champion radiator; Racor fuel filter

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