Results 1 to 18 of 18

Thread: Rear Main Seal Replacement

Hybrid View

Previous Post Previous Post   Next Post Next Post
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Joliet, Illinois
    Posts
    29

    Default Rear Main Seal Replacement

    Well, on my 1983 C20 6.2 I seem to have developed a substantial rear main seal leak, oil pan gasket leak, or both.

    It's a two piece rear main and seems like I should be able to do it without moving the transmission or jacking up the engine.

    Just remove the inspection cover and maybe the starter, drop the oil pan, remove the oil pump and rear main cap, and so forth.

    Sound about right? Any pitfalls I should be aware of?

    I tried to search the topic in this forum but it returned a few thousand results.

    Any advice would be appreciated.

    Thanks
    1983 Chevrolet C20

    1923ish Ford Model T Touring

    2000 Lincoln Town Car

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,289

    Default

    Just about right.

    Same basic thing you would do on an early RAT OR MOUSE MOTOR...

    If YOU ARE LUCKY and the engine has a hard backed neoprene seal it's pretty easy to shove the old one out and the new one in.

    If you find the rope type seal it can be a bit more work...


    Good luck

    JUST AN FYI

    These engines use a high temp silicone goop on the pan rails, so do not be shocked if you do not find a gasket...

    Gaskets were not used on these engine on the pan and rocker covers... only the goop.
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Joliet, Illinois
    Posts
    29

    Default

    Hey thanks!

    So is it a good idea to use a gasket now, or just load it up with the high temp silicone?
    1983 Chevrolet C20

    1923ish Ford Model T Touring

    2000 Lincoln Town Car

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,574

    Arrow

    Quote Originally Posted by sdelaney View Post
    Hey thanks!

    So is it a good idea to use a gasket now, or just load it up with the high temp silicone?
    NO gaskets. They'll just leak, sooner or later. Use "The Right Stuff" on clean surfaces and be done with it.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,289

    Default

    "THE RIGHT STUFF" IS GREAT....A bit more $$$ than the standard hi temp black silicone.

    The key to making any of the "GOO IN A TUBE" work well is to be sure that all surfaces are clean and OIL FREE...

    Use a clean shop towel and wet it with BRAKEKLEEN...Wipe all surfaces and allow to dry...then apply the goop.
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Joliet, Illinois
    Posts
    29

    Default

    Thanks for all the info and advice. For now I'll file it away for later use.

    After contorting myself up under and on top I discovered that the leak was in fact coming from a pipe nipple that the PO used to install an after market oil pressure gauge (about 30 years ago based on the appearance of the gauge). The nipple had completely rusted through.

    An 89 cent brass plug solved that problem. Whew!

    Thanks again!
    1983 Chevrolet C20

    1923ish Ford Model T Touring

    2000 Lincoln Town Car

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2000
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    11,390

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •