IFS Boot Replacement?

[DA BIG ONE]

Well, I need a couple of IFS axle boots inner and outer drivers side, and have decided to do it myself. Tired of high priced shops that can't get it right the first, second, or third time,Yes, you read right!

I can only guess the shop I went to somehow damaged the boots by laying them down too hard onto a hard surface causing damage from within, or they never changed out the damaged ones, just cleaned em.

Can anyone direct me to "the best replacement boots", or?

I have to buy the clamp krimping tool too.

[Shad]

I replaced the outer RH on the suburban. I think my turbo oil return was leaking on it and finally ate through it. It wasn't too bad I replaced the sway-bar links as long as I was there, the only way was to cut the old ones off. Luckly I knew a guy with the crimp tool but I have heard of guys using a dull side cutter.
Good Luck!

[Shad]

Oh yea I used NAPA brand.

[charliepeterson]

For the amount of time and energy to get the half shaft out it's really not worth trying to save money by replacing only the boot. If sand and/or water got into the joint it will fail again. When you have it on the floor just replace the unit with a new or re-man unit and do the job once.

[CareyWeber]

Originally posted by charliepeterson:
For the amount of time and energy to get the half shaft out it's really not worth trying to save money by replacing only the boot. If sand and/or water got into the joint it will fail again. When you have it on the floor just replace the unit with a new or re-man unit and do the job once.

I agree with this. I had a 1990 gasser before my 6.5 and when I got it the boots were cracked and I replaced them and with in two years both sides outer joints failed and I did it all over again.

I would say that it your CV shafts have very low miles and you the boot just failed (less than 3K miles) then I might consider it.

On my current truck the left front got a pin hole in it at about 50K miles. I cleaned the grease off with carb cleaner and dabbed some silicone on it and it is still going strong now at +190K miles.

I guess my point is watch them carefully.

Carey

[DA BIG ONE]

The complete axle is close to new, it was replaced when I had a collision.

Everything was ok with it until I had the ARB airlocker installed, it was installed wrong according to ARB this is why it popped out of the differential. Took it back 3 times because of grease coming out at highway speed.

I will clean it, inspect it and decide for there.

Basically would like to know which boots are the best?

[DA BIG ONE]

Thanks guys, I went for the rebuilt unit $106. w/lifetime replacement. I can not believe I has spent so much $$$$ in the past for a shop to such work. Time? 15 mins out, 10 mins in.

I have a Volvo w/IRS and the axles are about $700. ea., so the axle for the burb cheap.

[DA BIG ONE]

Thanks guys, I went for the rebuilt unit $106. w/lifetime replacement. I can not believe I have spent so much $$$$ in the past for a shop to do such work. Time for me to do it? 15 mins out, 10 mins in.

I have a Volvo w/IRS and the axles are about $700. ea., so the axle for the burb cheap.

[StephenA]

Got a source on the rebuilds for $106?

[DA BIG ONE]

Originally posted by StephenA:
Got a source on the rebuilds for $106?

NAPA

[StephenA]

Originally posted by DA BIG ONE:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by StephenA:
Got a source on the rebuilds for $106?

NAPA </font>[/QUOTE]Perfect!

[DA BIG ONE]

I am going to do the pass side now, it does not need it but for the money I may as well have both done.......

[StephenA]

Keep us posted- hope it's just as easy as the driver's side