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Thread: Fuel Filter Change

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Hurst. TX
    Posts
    233

    Post

    I just finished changing my fuel filter and trans filter at 15000 miles. I have read a lot of the posts concerning the fuel filter change. I want to add my two cents worth. Most appear to be going through the fender to change the fuel filter. I changed the filter from the top in less than 30 minutes. I found the wire to be a nuisance since I have such big hands but conquered it by removing the wire from the clamp on the cylinder head. That clamp is just bend around the wire bundles including the filter water sensor wire. Once I got it out the clamp I used needle nose pliers to put just enough pressure on the connector lock and the connector separated very easily.

    Next I used a PLEWS 70-719 1/2" STRAP FILTER WRENCH. I pulled the strap all the way to the top of the filter and used a ratchet and extension. After taking up the slack it took two or three short turns on the ratchet and the filter was loose and I removed it by hand from there.

    I changed out the water sensor and to fix the big o-ring falling out problem that I have heard so much about I used blue Permatex gasket maker and put 4 SMALL spots on the filter and positioned the o-ring and sitted it. I then cleaned all exposed gasket maker from the filter and o-ring and installed the filter. It is somewhat awkward getting it in position but not real hard. I screwed it as far as it would go. I then put the strap wrench back on. Here is where you have to be REAL CAREFUL. After moving the stap all the way to the top I tilted the strap wrench bar slightly so that the filter housing would take the pressure and then turn the filter about 1/8 turn or less just to snug it. I could not get quite enough twist with my hand because of the awkward position. I opened the bleed screw and pump the filter full of fuel and bled the air out, cleaned up the mess and bingo it was done except for the startup leak check.


    I then changed the trans filter and darn near did not see the magnetic washer. It had fuzz on it. This is just normal wear that occurs in mechanical devices. If you find chips or flakes then it is time to start being concerned.

    Hope this helps someone else to ease the maintenance burden.
    TBC<br />2001 2500HD Duramax Ext cab short bed, Indigo blue, LS with leather; Edge Juice ver 4.61; 42 gal fuel tank toolbox combo, black Westin nerf bars, K&N Charger filter, Fumoto Drain Valve, GM underseat storage, Sirius Satellite Radio.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Sachse, Texas
    Posts
    589

    Post

    Thanks for the info Tom...I have been putting mine off, but I just need to do it! Where did you get your Allison filer?
    Steve (Member #6089)<br /><a href=\"mailto:smbrown819@yahoo.com\">smbrown819@ya hoo.com</a><br />2002 LT 2500HD 4WD Crewcab Pewter/Graphite DuraMax/Allison<br /><a href=\"http://www.monkey.net/steve\" target=\"_blank\">(Mods and Miscellaneous Pics...Updated 08/10/03)</a>

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Gilbert, AZ
    Posts
    189

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    I changed my fuel filter yesterday. I did it pretty much the way Tom did it except for the big O-ring. Using the fingers of both hands, I work in fuel as a lubricant and stretch the O-ring slightly at the same time. It's harder to describe than it is to do. It take a minute or so to lube and stretch the O-ring enough to stay in the grove as you install the new filter, but properly done, it will stay in the grove until the filter is snug.

    The first filter was cahnged out at 16,000 miles. When I openend it up, about 60% of the media was discolored (black). The second filter was installed at 35,500 miles and it had about 80% discoloration. I don't know if the media was actually plugged or just discolored, but it looks like I will need to change it out every 18-20,000 miles to be safe. At least I know that it's in the fuel and not just manufacturing residue.
    Larry<br /><br />2001 2500HD, D/A, regular cab LS, 4x4, Wish it was a 6 sp!<br />2001 1500, regular cab LS, 4.3L, 5sp, wife\'s car!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    Clearwater, Florida
    Posts
    301

    Post

    One thing to keep in mind is that the frequency of fuel filter changes should depend upon the amount of fuel used, not the number of miles driven. If the correct change interval is 12-14,000 miles for the guy who doesn't tow and gets 18 mpg, it drops to 8-9,000 miles for the guy who tows a lot and averages 12 mpg.

    [ 07-28-2002: Message edited by: pinehill ]</p>
    2001 2500HD D/A CC/SB 4x4<br />A.R.E. Z-series topper, CA 75-series boards, Bedrug, Fumoto valve, Amsoil air filter, Jan \'02 PCM updates,Transfer Flow 50 gal. crossbed aux. fuel tank, Bilstein shocks, 25 ft. Tahoe Transport toybox (9.6K loaded), Hensley hitch, Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller.

  5. #5
    Idle_Chatter Guest

    Question

    Well, I agree heartily that the filter should be changed out regularly and that should be in accordance with gallons filtered. But that implies a lot of math. (Fortunately, I have an Excel spreadsheet and DO a lot of math!) I just checked on my statistics and I changed out my factory fuel fuel filter at 15,552 miles and had burned/filtered 870.6 gallons of fuel. I'm currently at 28,500 miles and have burned/filtered 676.9 gallons of fuel. Estimating the additional fuel consumed to reach 30,000 (108.1 gallons) based on an average mpg of 18.5 I should have run about 785 gallons through this filter. I'm on a 7,500 oil and filter routine and plan to stick to a 15,000 fuel filter change on every other oil&filter. Looks like that's going to keep my fuel filters changing at an interval of less than 1,000 gallons and I'm comfortable with that! (Plus there's no math! Just a fuel filter every other oil filter!)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Hurst. TX
    Posts
    233

    Post

    Silver Bullet

    I got the trans filter at the local Chevrolet dealer as I did the fuel filter and cab filter. I am going to look elsewhere for the next ones. They are a little expensive at the dealer.

    The fuel filter didnot have any trash or discoloration that I could see. The trans filter had the fuzz but the fluid looked normal. I will probably stay with the manufacturer mileage on the fuel filter unless I have reason to think something is wrong. The trans filter is a different story. I will probably stick with the manufacturer mileage interval of 25,000 miles but the trans filter will probably be changed more often especially when I have been towing or expect to be towing and am close to the interval. I always like to go on the short interval for the trans and carefully watch what my driving has been or will be.

    The engine oil and filter I normally wiil follow the manufacturers interval except when my driving has been or will be such that warrants more frequent change. I have done 4 oil changes in 14,000 miles. The oil in the diesel tends to turn black quicker but that means that it is doing its job or cleaning the engine but if I am going on a towing trip I will change it more often.

    I have been around airplanes and vehicles too long not to pay attention and adjust accordingly. Makes them last longer without problems.
    TBC<br />2001 2500HD Duramax Ext cab short bed, Indigo blue, LS with leather; Edge Juice ver 4.61; 42 gal fuel tank toolbox combo, black Westin nerf bars, K&N Charger filter, Fumoto Drain Valve, GM underseat storage, Sirius Satellite Radio.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Posts
    94

    Post

    I just changed my fuel filter, too. I bought two Raycor filters from DIS for $21 each including shipping to Hawaii.

    I did not remove the inner fender. The wiring harness is a bit tight to get at. Can you remove the upper boost pipe clamp and just rotate the pipe out of the way?

    I tried the ziploc bag around the filter to catch the fuel and it was working until a small hole melted in the bag when it came into contact with the exhaust manifold. (It was still a bit warm). The fuel stripped the frame paint right to bare metal.

    I had no problem with the Raycor filter large seal remaining in place. I used a bit of 15W-40 motor oil to lube it along with the inner seal and the Water In Fuel sesnor seal. A strap wrench is definately the way to go.

    I did not have any spare fuel so I put the filter on empty and used the primer pump and about 20 strokes with the bleed screw removed. Be careful to cover the bleed screw hole; that fuel comes flying out of it. The engine fired right up and ran for about 15 seconds than died. I backed the bleed screw out a bit, gave it 10 more pumps and tightened it up. Truck fired right up and no problems.

    Other than the fuel stripping portions of my frame paint off, no problems. DIS is definately a quality company.

    Corey

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    Manitowoc, WI USA
    Posts
    362

    Post

    I agree with 'chatter about keeping the math to a minimum. However, there are so many different service intervals on any vehicle, and my memory is lousy, so I came up with a different solution. Since I log everything in the spreadsheet anyway, I rigged some of the cells at the top of the page to warn me of impending service procedures. Using 'IF' statements, I give it the mileage for the next interval for the fuel filter change (or GOF, or anything else). When the entered mileage exceeds that interval, bold red text appears, saying "FUEL FILTER CHANGE" (or "OIL CHANGE", "AIR FILTER SERVICE", etc.). Once I perform the procedure in question, I simply edit the cell to the next service interval. It sure beats depending on my memory.
    Nels
    Manitowoc WI
    2001 Chev 2500HD DMAX/Allison 4WD x-cab long box

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Hurst. TX
    Posts
    233

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    NELS

    Is it possible to get a copy of the spreadsheet you are using? If so can you send it to tbcobb@mindspring.com and if not tell me where to go get it.
    TBC<br />2001 2500HD Duramax Ext cab short bed, Indigo blue, LS with leather; Edge Juice ver 4.61; 42 gal fuel tank toolbox combo, black Westin nerf bars, K&N Charger filter, Fumoto Drain Valve, GM underseat storage, Sirius Satellite Radio.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    289

    Post

    I just replaced mine today at 6231 miles, which is about 2k after my transfer flow tank was installed. went through the fender. very easy. whole process prob. took 15 minutes. Next time will be faster. my filter was about 40% black on the bottom half, with a little sludge-like substance on the bottom. i do about 50% towing 8500lbs and 50% driving in city.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    illinois
    Posts
    517

    Post

    A trucker buddie of mine told me to always buy diesel fuel where the big trucks buy it..saying that at the smaller stations fuel might not be as fresh..could have water in it or something like that..Making the transferflow filler neck a must..
    2002 GMC...Dmax in Black of course..X-cab 4 by 4..<br />Goodmark Cowl Inducton Hood<br />Lund Screen front<br />Stainless nerf Bars<br />aux tank<br />Jardine 4\" Exhaust<br />and some more stuff

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Sachse, Texas
    Posts
    589

    Post

    HOLY COW!!! I called 3 stealerships and they wanted anywhere from $39-$50 for the extrenal tranny filter! I went down to Stewart and Stevenson here in Big D and picked up some $9 each! It pays to shop around!!!
    Steve (Member #6089)<br /><a href=\"mailto:smbrown819@yahoo.com\">smbrown819@ya hoo.com</a><br />2002 LT 2500HD 4WD Crewcab Pewter/Graphite DuraMax/Allison<br /><a href=\"http://www.monkey.net/steve\" target=\"_blank\">(Mods and Miscellaneous Pics...Updated 08/10/03)</a>

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Paterson, NJ, USA
    Posts
    7

    Post

    I've changed my fuel filter 3 times allready. Don't use spread sheets or mileage just look at performance when filter starts clogging up, performance stops and thats when I change.

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