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Thread: Odd timing question

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Klymptof View Post
    Was going off of the third post in this thread: https://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/th...g-a-6-5.12532/
    That being said, the IP cam gear dot is at top, or 12 o'clock. The IP pump gear dot should align at 6 o'clock or 12 oclock?
    The pump drive gear only goes on one way. When you try to set the pump drive gear wrong, the holes are gone. Line up the timing marks as Robyn's diagrams show, or follow the directions in the post you referenced. 6 one, half dozen the other. The first diagram shows the timing marks for setting cam timing. The reason for using the 12 O'clock (crank) and 6 O'clock (cam) is due to precision. If you use 12-12, you can be off by one tooth and may not see it, even when using a straight-edge (it's that close). The second diagram shows the pump drive gear timing. Set the crank-cam timing, rotate the crank 360, then set the pump driven gear timing (12-6, respectively).
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  2. #22
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    Ok, that is how I had set it. Reassembling right now so will update when I get done.
    Thank you again everyone for the help and patience.
    1998 Chevy Silverado K2500 6.5L TD (in peices)
    1998 GMC Sierra K1500 5.7L Vortec (seized engine, crate motor waiting to go in)
    2012 Mustang GT 5.0L (fair weather driver)

  3. #23
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    Got everything reassembled with the exception of the intake. Cycled the key a few times to get the lift pump to prime the fuel filter until I started getting fuel from the hose coming off the t-handle bleeder valve. Cranked it over a few times and no fire. Batteries seemed a little weak although they read 12v when I hooked the charger up after. Going to let them charge overnight and try again in the morning.
    1998 Chevy Silverado K2500 6.5L TD (in peices)
    1998 GMC Sierra K1500 5.7L Vortec (seized engine, crate motor waiting to go in)
    2012 Mustang GT 5.0L (fair weather driver)

  4. #24
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    If air was allowed to enter the IP then it will take some cranking to get the air out of the system and the thing to have good fuel pressure at the injectors.

    Did you remove the injector lines ???????


    If you did remove them then the task can be daunting.

    Best way to do this and save the batteries and starter is to yank out the glow plugs and spin the engine with zero compression until fuel blows out the glow plug holes.

    Priming this way saves batteries, starter and patience.

    Takes about 30 seconds of free spinning OR less and the beast will be blowing fuel mist out the glow plug holes.

    Good luck
    Last edited by Robyn; 11-16-2018 at 07:25.
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  5. #25
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    Yes, I had pulled all the injector lines so I could replace the valve cover gaskets since at least one of them was leaking. Have a few things to do today before I can get back to the truck, but will pull the glow plugs and let you know what happens.
    1998 Chevy Silverado K2500 6.5L TD (in peices)
    1998 GMC Sierra K1500 5.7L Vortec (seized engine, crate motor waiting to go in)
    2012 Mustang GT 5.0L (fair weather driver)

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Klymptof View Post
    Yes, I had pulled all the injector lines so I could replace the valve cover gaskets since at least one of them was leaking. Have a few things to do today before I can get back to the truck, but will pull the glow plugs and let you know what happens.
    While you still have things somewhat disassembled (less inconvenient), remove the VC gaskets you just replaced and toss them. Reseal the valve covers with RTV or The Right Stuff. Otherwise, they'll just leak again, likely sooner than later.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  7. #27
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    There is a trick to getting the covers OIL TIGHT.

    Clean off every spec of the old RTV and then clean the head and cover well with Brakcleen and a rag.

    Maker sure the cover flanges are FLAT WITH NO HUMPS WHERE THE BOLTS GO AND PULL THE COVERS OUT ON THE INNER SURFACE.

    Apply a good bead of RTV (HIGH TEMP...COLOR MAKES NO DIFFERENCE) GET RTV AROUND THE BOLTS WELL AND BE GENEROUS WITH THE RTV 1/4" THICK IS GREAT

    CAREFULLY set the cover on on the head and get all the bolts in and just barely snug (Finger snug with a socket and extension only)

    When the RTV mushes out a bit you are doing it right...

    Allow the RTV TO CURE OVERNIGHT and then tighten the bolts snug with a very short wrench (1/4 drive ratchet)

    BIG DEAL IS CLEAN HEAD FLANGE, CLEAN AND STRAIGHT COVER..

    Enough RTV to allow the RTV to sort of mush out when the cover is set onto the head flange.

    This technique will give you a good leak free seal that will last..


    Now...with the fuel lines free of fuel and full of air...the only easy way to restart is as I mentioned earlier.

    Cranking the engine with full compression just kills the batteries and the starter and takes a loooooooong time.

    The glow plugs on the Drivers side are easy.

    THE ONES ON THE PASSENGER SIDE can be accessed by removing the tire/wheel and going in over the frame through the access hole behind the rubber flap.

    #8 is a bitch...just leave it and it will be fine.

    As soon as you get most cylinders blowing fuel mist, just screw the plugs back in and it should fire up.

    It will be a tad rough at first, but will smooth out quickly.

    Have fun
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  8. #28
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    I did not go back and redo the valve cover gaskets. Will worry about them when They become a problem again.
    Pulled the glow plugs, cranked until fuel came from their ports, reinstalled, and it fired up. Yay!
    Buttoned everything up, repaired the broken vacuum line coming off the wastegate, filled it with coolant, and took it for a short run. Everything seems fine except I cant hear the turbo whine anymore. Wondering if I should pull it out and have a look at it.
    Thank you so much for the help and advice. Not sure how far I would have gotten without everyone's support, especially you, Robyn.
    1998 Chevy Silverado K2500 6.5L TD (in peices)
    1998 GMC Sierra K1500 5.7L Vortec (seized engine, crate motor waiting to go in)
    2012 Mustang GT 5.0L (fair weather driver)

  9. #29
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    You are very welcome...

    This was a joint venture, and several folks helped.

    Having been through several rebuilds on the 6.5 and having left a LOT of hide and blood along the way...hence a few of the little tricks emerged.

    An FYI

    While you had the Front wheel off and were looking in over the frame at the glow plugs..

    Doing an R&R on the starter begins at this same point.

    The wire connections and easy removal of the starter front support bracket all become sooooooooo much easier..

    The rear glow plug access is still a tad nasty and is best if done from under the rig by reaching up around the down pipe.

    Using some NEVER SEAZE on the glow plug threads and seat is a very good idea, especially if the rig is used in salt country.

    Snapping off a glow plug is an ugly mess to deal with.

    Glad all is well.

    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Klymptof View Post
    Everything seems fine except I cant hear the turbo whine anymore. Wondering if I should pull it out and have a look at it.
    Check vacuum point output first. Remove vacuum harness at the wastegate actuator and check vacuum on the orange tube. Should be 22 in hg minimum. If nothing there, check at the back of the vacuum pump. Same spec. If nothing, replace the vacuum pump.

    If vacuum is good reconnect the harness and check vacuum at turbocharger by removing the black tube from the wastegate actuator. Vacuum here will be regulated by the wastegate solenoid. At idle, it should be around 15 in hg or so. If you have nothing here, the solenoid is bad. Replace it.

    If vacuum is making it to the turbocharger, the next thing is to remove the actuator and make sure it isn't stuck or bound up. Also, check the wastegate flapper valve. Make sure it will turn freely in its bore. These have been known to wear and bind before, although it is less likely with a 1998 than with the 1995 and earlier models.

  11. #31
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    vacuum pump output...

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