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Thread: Getting my SM465 back into my 6.2L

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    Yukon Canada
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    1,612

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    Hi Delta
    As a GM guy i havn't seen a adapter like your new one.
    I would use some pipe cut to lenght and long bolts for a temp solution
    You could maybe use a piece of box tubing as well if it comes in the right size.
    Are your plans to replace it?
    And what was the reason for removing the tranny in the first place?
    Thomas
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  2. #22
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    Feb 2012
    Location
    Pauline, SC
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    618

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    It looks like the case is clocked down a lot from the pics?
    1993 Chevy K3500

    owner - Twisted Steel Performance

    porting, ceramic & powder coating

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  3. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
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    I haven't found out what exactly it goes to yet other than it looks like the 86-89 type. I was just thinking about using square pipe and and some nuts, but I do not have a welder. So I will use washers and a long blot if it lines up. I could see if I can find a 3 in rectangle or square tube and a 1/4" flat stock that would do it.


    If it works I really do not have a plan to replace if as I found new aluminum ones that are like 400 bucks.


    I remove the transmission as I bought the truck used, and had leaks everywhere, and I didn't get much out when I drained it. So I wanted to check out the transfer case and transmission. so out they came.



    That is how it I got it and it seems to be the only way to get the drive shaft to the front without hitting the transmission mount.


    If it isn;t right then I can not find any information or photos of the correct way as everyone pretty much has aftermarket parts and different transmissions and transfer cases.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
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    Kansas City, MO
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    Ok, So I got it in and made a 6 inch space out of steel tube, the clutch wouldn't engage, so I look at the adjuster and it looks pretty worn, so I adjusted it past the nut to see if that was it, heard a load thud and the ball on the bell housing snap some threads, so now it will not go back in.


    Time to find a new bell housing, so if the clutch isn't engaging but I can watch the fork move, I assume it is the adjuster rod. so now I need to pick that up as well, plus fluids for the transmission and transfer case. still looking at 200 plus to get these done, I just hope the clutch works when I get it back together. just wish payday would get here faster.


    anyway, if you guys have any other ideas to try after I get the new parts let me know. Also, thanks to everyone fore helping. I knew better than to tackle this project.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
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    Kansas City, MO
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    Quote Originally Posted by sctrailrider View Post
    It looks like the case is clocked down a lot from the pics?
    Do you have a stock photo for the 82 K2500. At this point I an not even sure this is the right crossmember. This was the only spot I could get the shaft not to rub and still shift the transfer case.

  6. #26
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    Feb 2012
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    Pauline, SC
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    No I don't.... I would think their would be a pic on the web somewhere...
    1993 Chevy K3500

    owner - Twisted Steel Performance

    porting, ceramic & powder coating

    like us on Facebook

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
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    All of the ones I see all look different from one another, I need to get my hand on a GMC printed shop book. I could do a lot with that. LMC trucks doesn't have one, but classic parts of America have a tubular "universal" cross-member. which is good as both are down the road from me.


    Edit, I have one now, downloaded it. One more stupid question as I am not a mechanic nor do I play one on TV. Putting the top cover on the transmission, what is the easiest way to do it? I heard or read somewhere that if you put it in Half in R it will slide in. but I would like a reference on how the gears in side should be lined up as well. but I can not really find a video or anything one it.
    Last edited by DeltaWolf; 05-30-2019 at 22:28.

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    Brighton, CO, USA
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    From what I remember, the other gears are in the neutral position, and reverse is engaged halfway. It's definitely a little tricky, make sure the other shifter forks will fall into the slots on the gear sliders as you lower it. Hope that helps. Joe.
    2006 Chevy K2500 LLY Duramax/Allison Crew Cab!
    1996 Chevy C2500 6.5 auto Ext. Cab LB

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
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    Kansas City, MO
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    Joe, that's what I had read, just didn't know how true it was, Once I get the clutch fixed I will try it to see if it is in correctly, the book was no help.

  10. #30
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    Oct 2017
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    Kansas City, MO
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    Ok, got it all back in and started, she moves...some what, it seems after giving he some pedal it is almost like the transmission lacks drive power, the motor revs but doesn't have any power. Any Ideas on where to start? I really prefer not to take anything back out unless i know 100% what the issue is.


    Could low fuild level in the transfer case or transmission do this?

  11. #31
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,572

    Arrow

    Does it roll/coast easy? Can you manually spin the drive shaft(s) while in neutral (tranny and xfer)? Does the engine drag in neutral, clutch out? If none of the above.....

    Start with the basics:

    Fuel filter(s).
    Fuel quality (including actual content).
    Fuel level in the tank (really).
    Air intrusion.
    Fuel lift pump.
    IP timing (HPCA not working, or IP just too retarded).

    If 4x4 is engaged, and the gears are wrong (front - rear mismatch, including tire size), it will bind the drivetrain.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  12. #32
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    Apr 2001
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    CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeltaWolf View Post
    Could low fuild level in the transfer case or transmission do this?
    No. Unless it/they are already toast, that is.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  13. #33
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    Oct 2017
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    Kansas City, MO
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    OK, So I drove it about 20 feet, it felt like something was binding. so I jacked the ass up and apparently I missed a couple or three bolts on the transfer case to the coupler. the fuel is oldish sitting in the truck for about a year or so. I think whatever it is, is between the transmission and transfer case. I am going to guess the transfer case is where the problem lies. the transmission I didn't seal good enough so I will have to redo that, and fill it back up. fun. I will get that done and see how it goes.

  14. #34
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    Oct 2017
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    Kansas City, MO
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    Ok, so fixed the leaks, filled the fulids, pulled out of the driveway to test everything, push the clutch in, *pop* the Bellcrank (Z-Bar) popped off the Bell housing pivot ball. I did replace the parts that were in there other thank the grease, was planning on doing that after taking it down the street 1/8 mile turning around. The parts list I used was the one from Classicparts.com (Classic parts of American) as they are right down the road.



    I just do not see how the grease is suppose to be held in by the pivot ball on the bell housing side. also there is some play side to side as I assume that is for frame/engine/transmission flex.



    Anyone else experience the z bar popping out of place when the clutch is pressed in?

  15. #35
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Yukon Canada
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    Hi
    I have a truck were that happened,the reason on mine was the frame was bent.
    I added a spacer to move the ball mounted to the frame closer to the transmission.Solved it for that truck.
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  16. #36
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    Oct 2017
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    Kansas City, MO
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    I was thinking I would have to do the same, How did you get your ball stud in, was one side threaded and the other a stud as well?

  17. #37
    Join Date
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    Mine was a 76 gas truck and it had the ball on the frame mounted to a bracket on the frame.
    The ball had a stud end so it was easy enough to add washers to move the ball closer to the trans.
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  18. #38
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    Oct 2017
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    Kansas City, MO
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yukon6.2 View Post
    Hi
    Can you post pictures of the two side by side?
    Have you thought about using a spacer to get the proper height?
    Sucks when stuff isn't right.
    i had a nightmare tranny change in my Topkick,it really sucked and took a bunch of time because the tranny came from a shop 1600 miles away,and the owner has a habit of forgetting about you unless you were in his face hassling him.

    So the Transfer case to tranny adapter I have I think cam from a 4x4 1500, I saw a photos of a 465 that came from a 1500 and it is the same one as mine, I got doopped on ebay again lol, but it is my fault, I will have to find another proper one later.

  19. #39
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
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    finally got her back up, now to just gain trust in her to not have her fail on me. Thank you all for the help, next I don't know.

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