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Thread: Help needed from Sweden

  1. #41
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    I have to ask before I do something potential stupid.

    Since my 1995 Astro is running like a tractor with what I think is a vacuum leakage. I can hear a high pitch sound right before the 700 automatic changes gears.

    Because of that I want to take out the Cheyenne and use it for daily drives to the store and to work, but I need to know If there is a risk to ruin something in the engine considering the pressure from the pump, and the fault code 18 ???

    I would be really bummed if I managed to ruin something after pumping money and work in to the truck.

  2. #42
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    The code is not a big worry...but the 10 psi is/could be a concern.
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  3. #43
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    The oil pressure sender/switch is mounted on a 90 deg fitting. It is seen just above the second from left engine stand attaching arm in this photo. The other one seen under the intake is associated with Kennedy Diesel's lift pump control harness. This port location is not available on blocks prior to 1996. This image is of a 2000 block going into a 1995 Suburban.

    As for your lift pump, it also looks like someone plumbed in an inline fuel filter ahead of the lift pump. If the in-tank strainer is in place, this filter is not necessary and makes it harder to pull fuel from the tank. However, since you say that this lift pump is making 10 psi, it must be pulling plenty.

    I would probably drive the truck as is without worrying too much about the lift pump over pressure situation for a short while, but would change back to the factory style pump as soon as possible. It has been running this way anyway.

    With DTC 18 set, the computer goes into back up fuel mode and you can expect "rough idle and poor performance". That can also lead to hard starting.

  4. #44
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    The DTC 18 code won't cause any damage. It will cause the pump to default timing, which is essentially harmless. It may not run as well during, so get that fixed at your soonest convenience.

    The fuel pressure isn't a concern, as long as it stays positive at higher demands. The original Stanadyne spec is 4-16 PSI, so no problem with 10. Typical OEM pumps run 4-6 PSI. Gasser fuel pumps generally drop pressure very quick once demand increases, which may be a greater concern. As long as it doesn't go into a suction state, it won't hurt anything. Maybe check the pressure once you get a load on it. I'd ditch all the gasser fuel filters, though. They don't flow #2 oil well, especially when it gets colder (Sweden may be in the tropics, but I wouldn't chance it....). Any properly rated filter assembly in the 10 micron neighborhood is much more adequate (visit your local tractor supply).
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  5. #45
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    Ohh my ....... I missed that the thread multiplied in to a second page. I will respond to all of you tomorrow, but now Im a little bummed and tired over a starter that desided to stop working.
    The copper connection for the plus cable was spinning, and it seems like it lost connection with the inside. It looks like I have to pick up the tools and get dirty again tomorrow.
    Best wishes from tropical ????? Sweden. Its snowing outside right now.

  6. #46
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    You can pretty much fix the starter yourself,if it is the non gear reduction/old style.

    The soliod on the old style starters can be taken apart carefully,cleaned and broken parts replaced.But you need replacement parts,which most old style GM starters can provide.
    I have not been inside a new style one yet.
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  7. #47
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    Im slowly sliding in to personal ruin with this truck.
    Its not cheap to fix old used cars like this, and the latest cost is a new starter and diesel pump.
    The data on the pump is 9.5 to 14 psi and the flow is 35 gph, and as far as I understand that would be good enough for my truck. I attached a photo of the new pump to this post, and it looks very similar to the pump that Robyn posted a pic of.

    The starter smells really bad of burnt electronics, and in the back of the solenoid its been hot enough for the soldering on one of the two copper cables inside, to melt. It may be possible to salvage, but Im tired and want to get the truck out of the garage, so I ordered a new one.

    Sooo, now I can check two moore things of the list, and if nothing else brakes or burning up the truck is ready to at least drive to work.
    Despite of the code 18 I will take it out and hope that the magic bottles from Wynn would do the trick.

    I beleve that Wynn is an American brand, so you probably heard about them. I dont know what you guys think of there snake oil for cars, but I ordered three different ones.
    Diesel injector cleaner
    Diesel system treatment
    Fuel Biocide, that is suppose to clean the sensor and fix the code 18 if possible.
    What do you think, money well spent or a total waste ???
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #48
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    Yessssssss,,,Old rigs can turn into a money $$$$$ pit...been there done that

    The pump in the pix looks like whats needed
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robyn View Post
    Yessssssss,,,Old rigs can turn into a money $$$$$ pit...been there done that

    The pump in the pix looks like whats needed
    But with the price of new trucks....
    I know that i would invest the money in a older truck if i needed a specific truck as apposed to spending 100K for one.The fact that i have enough parts to keep my old ones on the road till they take my license helps me sleep at night.
    I have never spent that kind of money on a truck that will make money for me,so i definitely will not spend that kind of $$$ on one that basically hauls my butt around.
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  10. #50
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    I got my new starter and mounted it today, and boy did it spin. My earlier hard starting does not feel like an issue anymoore since the motor is starting alot faster now.

    Unfortionally everything did not go smothly, as I should have expected.
    First under a short testrun the low coolant warning lit up, and when I got home the engine had dumped all of the new coolingfluid I just filled it up with, and the reason to that was the bottom hose that slipped of the connection pipe.

    I got the truck back into the garage, fixed the hose and refilled it with another batch of glycol and water, then I parked it outside on idle when it suddenly died. I tried to restart it again with no luck, popped the hood an discovered a dieselshower all over the engine from a hole in the hose used to evacuate the water from the diesel.

    I had a trying time to stop the leak with 4 hose clamps and one 8 mm bolt, so that hose really needs to be changed. I would do that right now if I knew how to get to the inlet side of the hose.
    It goes down under the manifold and disapear, so if anyone could tell me where to find the other end of the hose, and how to get to it, I would be a lot happier.

    I really want my new lift pump asap to. I took a combined testrun and getting a pizza, and when I left the pizzajoint and got out on the road home, the engine died, again and in the middle of the road. I jumped out and popped the hood again when I relized that it was no sound from the pump, back in to the truck, on with the pump and it started right away, so you could say that I dont want a switch on the panel for the pump, and I dont like cold pizza.

  11. #51
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    Yeah. Cold pizza is only good the next morning. With warm, flat beer (breakfast of champions....a long time ago).

    The hose that goes to the T valve up front starts at the bottom of the fuel manager (filter assembly) behind the intake. It is the water (bottom) drain for the filter. It gets full lift pump pressure, as long as the pump is running. Just replace that hose with new and it shouldn't give you any more problems.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  12. #52
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    Trick

    Remove the bolts on the fuel manager to get a bit of working room.

    Use a short piece of threaded rod and a couple clamps to connect the new hose to the old one at the front end of the engine.

    Remove the hose at the fuel manager and then pull the new one down under the manifold as you pull the old one out.

    I have had that same smelly shower before myself.

    My hose split at the T valve and I was able to clamp it off with a vice grips and at least get home.

    BIG MESS AND STINKS.

    When you replaced the starter, did you connect the front support that bolts from the starter to the side of the block ??

    Those MUST be on there or the starter WILL eventually snap one of the main bolts off OR BREAK THE BLOCK.
    The support can be accessed by removing the RH front tire/wheel and going in across the frame by removing the rubber weather flap.

    Sit on a bucket by the hub and easy to do. **** The Red bolt head is where the front bracket bolts on ****

    Here is some good info
    https://www.thedieselpageforums.com/...ad.php?t=43423
    Last edited by Robyn; 12-14-2018 at 17:15.
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  13. #53
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    Thanx to you booth, now I know what to do. If I had used a bit of brain power I should have been able to figure out where the other end of the hose went, but I get this strange pain in my head every time I try.

    Robyns trick with the hose will be useful, and the warning was priceless. When I was reading that, it hit me that I had to loosen the bolt that holds the bracket to the block, just to get the bolt to find the threads in the starter, BUT as expected I forgot to tighten the block bolt again, so that will be next on my long list.

    I took it out for a spin yesterday and it was running ok, the only thing that was off was that the engine was reving up and down when I put it in drive. It got better after a while so I suppose that it was cold.

    Another thing is that before I changed the pump you could hear the turbo spinning, but now thats almost gone. My guess is that the wastegate was always open before I got a working pump, and all pressure and noice got out via the exhaust, and now its not.

  14. #54
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    You are gaining on it.

    One thing at a time, do it right and you will not need to deal with it again for a long time.

    The thing with the engine reving up and down was likely due to AIR having gotten into the injector pump during the issue with the hose.

    Once the air was purged out the reving will quit...

    Keep us in the loop...
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  15. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robyn View Post
    You are gaining on it.

    One thing at a time, do it right and you will not need to deal with it again for a long time.

    The thing with the engine reving up and down was likely due to AIR having gotten into the injector pump during the issue with the hose.

    Once the air was purged out the reving will quit...

    Keep us in the loop...
    Yes I will, thanx.
    Anyway, about the engine reving up and down, if the air was purged out the truck should work normally after a spin, but it does not.

    When I went to the store today it was doing the same thing again when it was cold.

    The throttle is also extremely sensitive, especially when its cold.

    By the way, the bolt I forgot is now properly fasten so the new starter wont brake free from its place.
    Thank you for that, Robyn.

  16. #56
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    May be air in the line from the tank/pump

    Connect a clear plastic hose to the return line that heads back to the tank from the engine.

    Loop it up to where the wipers are by the windshield and then connect back to the other line.

    This will give you a view on what is going back to the tank.

    ANOTHER test is to put a clear tube in the feed line coming from the filter to the injection pump.

    Clamp well and run the engine.

    If you have any bubbles you need to find where the leak is...

    Between the tank sock and the lift pump inlet would be likely.

    Any air bubbles will drive these things nuts..
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  17. #57
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    Ahhhh, that may just be the problem. When I took the pic of the Edelbrock pump I noticed that the fuel line was wet on booth sides of the pump. I was going to fix that when I got the new pump.

    On the new pump there is threads, and on the small Edelbrock there are just clamps. Concidering my problems getting the water evac hose sealed, I should have thought of that possibility.

    Now I have a couple of new worries. When I was out yesterday and tested the 4x4, the oil pressure went from 50 percent to 25 percent on the meter. I checked the stick and the level was the same as the last time I looked.
    I bought oil but not yet a filter so Ive planned a change, but since Ive noticed that the present oil seems a little thin I have to ask what viskosity for all year use would be best, quality would also be good to know, synt, semisynt or just a mineral oil ??

    Another thing is if I floor it, the engine starts to run really bad on the final 25-30 percent of the throttle. It probably have something to do with the fault code 17 and 18 thats the last of the 8 codes I had when I began the rescue of my truck, but I wanted to check that with the braintrust on this forum anyway.

    It has fallen around two decimeter of snow tonight, so now Im taking the beast out for a spin with the four wheel drive connected.

  18. #58
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    Don't worry about codes or chase running issues until you get the fuel delivery in check. Any air getting into the system can cause any/all of what you're experiencing.

    Oil choice and performance is simple. Any x-40, synthetic or conventional, modern Diesel-rated oil (CF-4 and later) is sufficient. Avoid any x-30 wt. oils. 15w-40 conventional/mineral is the standard, while 0/5w-40 synthetic is recommended for less-tropic (really cold) environments. 10w-30 conventional, and 0/5/10w-30 synthetic oils, regardless of fuel compatibility, typically cause increased consumption between changes.

    Oil pressure is subjective, but consistent with traditions. Allow 10 PSI (or suitable conversion) per 1000 RPM's as a base line, under the worse of conditions. The 50% drop in pressure from a cold start to operating temp is quite typical. More is not necessarily better, as there are too many variables to quantify it. Also note, the instrument panel gages are notoriously inaccurate, and should only be used as a means to track trends. If you're concerned about it, install a quality mechanical gage. Spend your worries more on keeping the oil in the system, rather than what it's doing while it's there. Check, and continue to monitor, all external components of the lubrication system, most specifically the oil cooler and oil cooler lines. If they leak, address that earlier rather than later. Many quality aftermarket oil cooler line options are often preferred over (leak-prone) OEM lines. Don't try to save (too much) money on them.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  19. #59
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    Thanx a lot for your detailed input. I bought a new filter today, and got message that the new pump is on its way, so as soon as the pump arrives its time to let the truck back in to the warm garage. Its nothing to look forward to since I have to pass the truck sideways when its indoors.

    That also means that the Astro is my temporally car of choice, whitch lead to a small off topic question. Im pretty sure that the Astros problem is a vacuum leak someware.
    It sounds like the leak has something to do with the th 700 transmission, but when I had a look in the garage manual it dont seem to be any vacuum hose to the gearbox.
    On the 350 boxes its a vacuum clock on the gearbox itself if I remember correct, so any ideas of what it could be that delivers this high pitch noice.

  20. #60
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    The TH700R4 transmission has NO vacuum control, or vacuum connections. It's entirely mechanical/hydraulic/electric (not electronic).

    Consider yourself lucky. Your vacuum leak, if that's what it is, is making noise. Many/most do not. Find the noise. Something that can help is using aerosol carburetor cleaner (very sparingly). DO NOT USE ETHER OR STARTING FLUID!!! If you suspect a location of the leak, lightly spray the carburetor cleaner in the area (using the straw), or on the leak you suspect. The engine speed should immediately increase with the added fuel (vs. the leaking air). Be very careful when spraying around high heat sources (have a fire extinguisher handy). If you're highly prone to accident, perhaps have an ambulance close by (just kidding, but there are stories....). This is usually most effective immediately after a cold start before the coolant temp begins to increase much.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

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