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Thread: What have I done...

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
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    washington missouri
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    Default What have I done...

    Hey, newbie here, and new to this engine. I purchased a 1996 gmc k3500 with 220k miles. seems mostly ok.
    things ive noticed wrong with it


    slightly hard to start after sitting
    stumble/die at times
    gauge cluster is a mess (no tach, voltage gauge or check engine light)


    other than that and the codes, it seems alright.


    codes are
    p0113 iac high input
    p0216 injector/injection timing control circuit
    p0251 injection pump fuel metering control "a"
    p1810
    p1860
    p1870


    but i like to learn and dont mind time behind the wrench

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,282

    Default

    Hello and welcome to TDP

    Clear all the codes.

    MAKE SURE THE BATTERY CONNECTIONS AND VOLTAGE TO THE MAIN BUS ARE 14 VOLTS OPERATING.

    See what codes come back.
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    washington missouri
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    Default

    Ill start with that. Thanks! I noticed its locked out overdrive, but that goes with the 1800 codes

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Knoxville,Tennessee
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    2,639

    Default

    Also might check and clean all your ground connections. On my 94 first thing I did was use spay cleaner on weather pac connectors and add dielectric grease to them. Never had an electrical problem for all the time I owned it 96/2013
    "The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government."
    -Patrick Henry


    A5150nut
    2006 K3500 D/A
    94 6.5 4x4 5spd Sold

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    washington missouri
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    Default

    Cracked the crossover tube the other day, while making the repair, noticed a harness rubbing on the front driveshaft.

    Repaired the broken wire and tied it out of the way.


    Only code now is a p0216

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    washington missouri
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    On the p0216 code, I've replaced the stepper motor.

    Still here and hard to start.

    The timing is showing a requested 8.6? But only getting 2.6 to 4 4 or so
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
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    CA
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    The IP is probably indexed out of range. Loosen, rotate, tighten. A little at a time. Timing can only be PCM adjusted within a narrow range.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  8. #8
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    Feb 2020
    Location
    washington missouri
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    I could scream. The tensioner socket is broken. I can't drop the belt to pull the a/c and reach the pump bolts. But it looks as if the pump has been replaced.

    More tomorrow I guess

  9. #9
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    CA
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    You can use a socket to rotate the tensioner by the pulley bolt.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
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    washington missouri
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    Default

    I have loosened the pump, but the housing wont turn

  11. #11
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    CA
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    It's fairly rigid if you don't loosen the injector lines at the other end. It is recommended, but not specifically necessary if only moving a couple degrees. There's also (should be) a gasket between the IP flange and timing cover that can be sticky.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    washington missouri
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    I figured out the pump movement part. Now I seem to have a fuel leak. It's near the front. Injector lines are tight.

    My tractor guy, based off my explanation thinks its an internal weep or o ring failed on a plug

  13. #13
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    Feb 2020
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    washington missouri
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    housing cracked. new pump. ran fantastic for a few days. started her up, made it to the end of the block and it sounded like it ran out of fuel (its not. tank is full, filled 5 miles before home, and fuel guage works properly.) lift pump does need replaced (5 psi) but is moving fuel, rebled filter and lines. not getting fuel at injectors. Double checked fuel cutoff solenoid for operation, and fuel at that point, all good. unplugged optical sensor, still no fuel at injectors. at this point, my frustrations won and I went in for the night. sorry to the neighbor whos house its parked in front of.

  14. #14
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    Unless you have another reason to replace the lift pump, 5 PSI is fine. Check it again at idle, when you can. 4 PSI+ is all that's needed. A failed lift pump may fail to start, but shouldn't cause a stall. The IP has an internal transfer pump, and will continue to flow fuel if the LP fails (power may suffer, but it will run).

    Maybe revisit the PMD and/or harness. Check fuses. It sounds more electric/electronic than mechanical.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Ft. Wayne, In.
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    Default

    Any progress on your issue Mr. Wolf?
    Dave, N9LOV
    Member #242
    Dave's Diesels:
    Sold June, 07 '82 1/2 ton 4X4;340k miles
    '97 2 Dr Tahoe, Intercooled,
    Kennedy ECM, 4" Exhaust
    '02 GMC

  16. #16
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    Feb 2020
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    washington missouri
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    Yessir. Injection pump. The nut on the end of the shaft walked off. So the timing gear and drive piece on the pump spin, but the shaft does not.

    Anyone have a used pump for sale?

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2000
    Location
    Montana
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    11,382

    Arrow

    Quote Originally Posted by howlinwolf View Post
    Yessir. Injection pump. The nut on the end of the shaft walked off. So the timing gear and drive piece on the pump spin, but the shaft does not.

    Anyone have a used pump for sale?
    Might be worth checking the slack in the timing chain. Excessive slack can cause a whipping action in the timing stack, which introduces higher than designed limits in torque impulses that ultimately work against the injection pump drive gear... which can stress the connection between the IP shaft and the sprocket to a point of shearing the pin and losing time.

    Check chain wear/slack by removing the oil fill tube, then rock the engine back/forth while observing the IP sprocket and the engine's crankshaft damper. Anything at/above about 4 degrees total crank rotation before the IP gear moves requires a new timing set. For info's sake, new chain timing sets produce about 2-3 degrees slack.

    Jim

  18. #18
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    Feb 2020
    Location
    washington missouri
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    Awesome. I'll start there.

    Still need another pump

  19. #19
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    Feb 2020
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    washington missouri
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    I'm.... At a loss. Installed new pump. No fire. Thought... Timing gear jumped maybe?

    It seems in time. (Marks line up. Pulled upper cover and water pump. )

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    washington missouri
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    Default

    2 new batteries and it's trying to hit on one cylinder, giving a bit of a smoke show

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