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Thread: Help needed from Sweden

  1. #1
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    Exclamation Help needed from Sweden

    Hi there everybody. I bought me a -94 Cheyenne with a 6.5 TD a couple of days ago. The a-hole seller has been smart and removed the lightboulb behind the "service the engine soon" warning. Now I found out that the picup has no less than 7 codes that needs fixing. My problem is that I don’t have a clue to what the codes refer to, and how to fix them. Ok, I can read the list of codes in this post, but I don’t know what it is that needs fixing and how to do it, if you guys know what I mean. Ok, here are the codes, and now I hope for mercy from you dieselpower loving guys on this forum. 17. High resolution circuit fault. 18. Same as 17 I think. 32. EGR circuit fault. 33. EGR control pressure barometric sensor circuit high. 35. Injection pulse width error short duration. 45. EGR vent error 78. Turbocharger wastegate solenoid fault. I have invested some serious money buying this picup, and I’m holding both thumbs and toes that there is possible to save this engine without me fileing for personal bankruptcy. Hope for help. Regards from Michael in cold Sweden.
    Last edited by DmaxMaverick; 11-16-2018 at 15:30. Reason: Corrected formatting

  2. #2
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    Welcome aboard!

    I corrected your original post so the entire text would show. The quotations " you were using were "tilted", which fails to show any text that follows. This happens for a few non (US) standard characters (the quotes, in this case), and even some common characters on occasion. It will happen again if you use the same characters.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
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  3. #3
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    Arrow

    Now that's out of the way....


    Start off by checking the vacuum pump operation. At idle, it should pump smoothly and produce at least 22" hg (a new pump can be as much as 26") at the large line at the pump, and about 15" hg at the wastegate actuator. If either is less, or the vacuum is very uneven on a gage (bouncing needle), the pump is likely due for replacement. You could also have any number of leaks, failed EGR solenoid, and/or failed (or incorrectly plumbed) wastegate solenoid.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  4. #4
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    I agree, the first place to start is to check the vacuum pump. If you disconnect the vacuum harness at the waste gate solenoid, the black line should run to the turbo and the orange line should run to the pump. As Dmax said, you should see about 22" Hg when you connect your vacuum gage to the black line. If there is no or very little vacuum there, then check it at the back of the pump. It's a little hard to get to, but you should be able disconnect the orange tube from the larger tube that goes down behind the pump to the pump inlet. If no vacuum there, replace the pump. Don't use one of the AutoZone or other aftermarket pumps. They don't last. Use an AC-Delco pump. It's about $100 more expensive, but you won't be changing it again right away.

    If there is vacuum at the pump, check the vacuum harness for leaks. If no leaks, check the waste gate solenoid. It may be bad.

    Once you get the turbo working, the bad news is that you probably need a new injection pump. We can cover that later.

  5. #5
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    Default Oh, look at that.

    Now I noticed that my post was complete and got a couple of answers to.
    Thank you for that, I will try your suggestions and get back to you asap.

    I got a little worried when the injection pump was mentioned, but I will try not to jump ahead of that and do the vaccum check first.

    Like Arnold said, I will be back.
    Last edited by FunLight; 11-20-2018 at 05:10. Reason: Same as my last post.

  6. #6
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    Unhappy One found, six to go.

    I cant say that Im jumping of joy, but now I found what you guys suspected.
    The vaccumpump is totally dead, so now the hunt for a new one has started.

    I cant say that parts for US cars are imposible to find in Sweden, but I can guarantee that the parts for my chevy in this country, is at least twice as high as prices in the US for the same part, so this wont be without pain.

    Do you have any suggestions to what I can do while Im waiting for another vaccumpump ??
    There are 6 additional codes to put out, and I dont like to sit on my hands while Im waiting.

    Im also serching for a paper workshop manual for my chevy, preferably complet with the 6.5 L turbo diesel appendix. I have vaccumed ebay and just found one seller of cd manuals for my car, but Id like to have the paper one if possible.
    If you dont like to scroll up for what type of chevy manual Im looking for, its for a 1994 Cheyenne C/K 2500 6,5L Turbo Diesel.

    Thanx for your help so far.
    Mike from Sweden
    Last edited by FunLight; 11-24-2018 at 05:05. Reason: Formatting issues

  7. #7
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    Don't worry about the codes until you get the vacuum system right. Once the new pump is in and the system is working correctly, clear the codes and watch for new codes. Most, if not all, will not likely return. Address what happens, then. If you need something to do in the meanwhile, now is a good time to refresh (clean) as many electrical connections as you can locate, especially all the grounds.

    For REAL paper manuals, go to www.helminc.com . You'll find some more pain ($$) there, but they are exactly what you asked for. Your only other alternative is finding a used set, but they are scarce. Much less pain can be had at www.alldatadiy.com. It's also the real thing, but it's not a paper version.

    As an alternative to your current direction, depending on the constraints of your local emission system legal requirements, you can completely abandon the vacuum system and install a manual wastegate control. This will also eliminate the EGR function, but it removes the need for a vacuum pump. To do this, you'll need an upgrade ECM chip (or the computer will continue to complain), shorter belt, and a little elbow grease. The total cost to do this may be similar or less than just the cost of a vacuum pump in your area. I don't usually recommend this due to legal requirements in the US, but you may not be subject to the same.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
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    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  8. #8
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    Your EGR system is also vacuum operated, so you've covered more than one code. I think your others are injection pump related. Others who are more up on them will probably chime in. I'd suggest you try a heavy dose of a good fuel treatment for starters. Also, the '94 pumps were originally quite problematic, so you want to be sure yours has all the available updates installed.

    Should you end up needing a pump overhaul, you might want to look into converting from the electronic pump to a mechanical one, assuming your government would allow that.
    The Constitution needs to be re-read, not re-written!

    If you can't handle Dr. Seuss, how will you handle real life?

    Current oil burners: MB GLK250 BlueTEC, John Deere X758
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    Gone but not forgotten: '87 F350 7.3, '93 C2500 6.5, '95 K2500 6.5, '06 K2500HD 6.6, '90 MB 350SDL, Kubota 7510

  9. #9
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    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
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    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  10. #10
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    Default Fantastic.

    I have to say that all of you are fantastic. !!!! Robyns post resulted in one vacuumpump ordered and soon to be on its way. It was well over $150 cheeper on ebay than it was in Sweden, not counting in customs dreadful fees.

    I spent 2,5 hours today serching for that pump on ebay, but the fact is that I dont know what to look for regarding my picup. Chevrolet has a lot of models, and Im not sure what model and type describes my car in the check compatibility lists.

    It is a 1994 chevy cheyenne 6.5L c/k 2500, but that is not what it says in the auctions.
    There is silverados and what not, but strait up name, engine, year is not serchable anywere on the internet, if you know what I mean.

    If any of you could write down exactly what name and numbers to serch for in the future, I would kiss your feets to. Now I will go look for the manual bookplaces that DmaxMaveric recommended, and hopefully find me some books to consult in the future, even though it is more fun to ask the brain trust on this forum.

    Thanx, and Ill be back later.

  11. #11
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    Default Vacuum pump

    Hi. This is just a small comment of what I found. The pump was a challenge to remove, and even moore to get the belt disc to let go of the shaft.
    During this time I found out that the pump was working after all, the meter shows the 22 hg you pros here recommended.

    I dont know why there was no vacuum before when I started the engine, but I suppose there was a leak someware that I missed. The white plastic pipe from the pump to the solenoid could be the guilty part, because it cracked and was very brittle when I disconnected it from the fittings, so I replaced it with a new simular pipe.

    Im not sorry that I spent some cash for a new pump, this one is really ugly with a lot of rust all over and it would probably brake down soon anyway. Since Im not a picking lint from my bellybutton type of guy, Im changing the corroded locks i the doors wile Im waiting for the new pump, a challenge in it self.
    Have a nice day from Mike in Sweden

  12. #12
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    Default Glowplugs

    Hi again.
    While I wait for the pump from the US Im fiddling with the small stuff on the car.
    Since it wants to be difficult to start, I took care of the exiting task of removing the glowplugs and test them and the feeding current.

    The plugs seems to work just fine, but I have some worries about the feed.
    If I test direct on the batteries I get around 13-14 volts, but when I test the feed through the cables I get from 10,7 to 11,9 volts.
    Is that enough to work the plugs, and why dont they get the same current as the batteries can deliver ???

    When Im turning the key the glowlight works fine, but when the starter turns the engine, it will act like a petrol engine that hasnt been started for a long time. It ignites on a couple of cylinders first, and then the cylinders adds on one after another until it suddenly starts and all cylinders kick in.
    I hope you guys get my swenglish rambling and bad grammatics, but I bet your Swedish is just as bad. Lol.....

  13. #13
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    Test the plugs with a jumper cables to the battery.

    Clip the outer jacket to the Negative cable and then touch the spade to the plus cable.

    The glow plug should be red starting at the tip in only a few seconds.

    ****Do not glow more than 10 seconds or so****

    If the plugs do not glow or only glow in the center and or take a long time to get hot they are junk.

    60G plugs are the newest and best plugs, and will tolerate more abuse.

    What is in the engine???? (Should be numbers on the plugs near the hex portion)


    Sounds like several plugs are bad.

    Your grammar is just fine... I can follow what your saying
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
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  14. #14
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    Default Glowplugs

    Thanks for your answer Robyn, and I have done just what you propose to all plugs, and they all glow nicely in a few seconds.

    It was hard to see the markings on the plugs, but I did at least see the AC Delco name.
    I also think that they was, if not spanking new, at least not that old, and they all loosened without any trouble or brokened plugs.

    All the cables was also ok without any shield breakage or exposed wireing, so I dont know whats wrong, if anything.

    My only theory is that they dont get the full voltage and therefore dont get hot enough during the glowing time. I even tried to disconnect the temperature censor in the crossover pipe from the thermostat, just to see if the glowingtime was increased, witch it was not.

    I have another question that I hope someone recognice and know what to do with.
    When I drive the picup in around 55 mph, something starts to vibrate like when you drive on this painted warninglines on the roads. I dont know if you have these in the US, but here we have those as sidelines on the highways, designed to wake up any tired or sleepy driver.

    The only way to get this vibration to stop, is to slow down a little. At first I thought it was a bad joint or something, but the car has recently passed the yearly checkup all our cars has to go thru before its ok to drive it on our roads, and any unwanted movements in all joints would have been discovered and the owner would have been forced to fix it if he want to use it.

    Any moore ideas would be very welcome.
    Regards from Mike in a grey, wet, and semicold Sweden.

  15. #15
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    Poor starting can also be a result of the injectors being in bad shape.

    Low pop pressure and a sloppy stream rather than a nice fine cone of fuel mist is common as the injectors get a lot of miles on them.

    Pull the injectors out and get them tested.

    Having pop pressures that are very close to each other is important to keep cylinder to cylinder timing very close (makes for a much smoother running engine)

    The bad vibes you are feeling could be several things.

    A TIRE BALANCE ISSUE
    A TIRE WITH A BROKEN BELT INSIDE CAUSING A BULGE
    A BAD U JOINT ON THE DRIVE SHAFT

    I would look at tire balance first.
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
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  16. #16
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    I know we are putting off the other codes for now, but, you have several codes that indicate injection pump issues. These issues can cause hard starting, especially if the fuel solenoid is sticking open intermittently. If the pump is worn internally, it might not be generating adequate pressure at start up.

    As Robyn said, the first place to look for your vibration is wheel balance. Next, jack each wheel up and rotate the wheel. Look for bulges or knots or out-of-round spots. This is an indication of a tire coming apart inside and cause speed sensitive vibration.

  17. #17
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    Default Vibrations

    Thanks for your ansvers, but its not vibrations from the tires.
    Like I said, if you picture that the sidelines on the road, I cant show you the lines here because everything I write other than letters dissapear, but think of driving on horisontally painted sidelines a half inch thick and seven inches wide, and three inches apart.

    Like a stack of equals, as in two plus two equals, and paint equal letters in a row with thick paint and then drive over them.
    The whole car is vibrating and sounds like driving on a washingboard.

    I hope that you could picture what I try to describe with my really bad description.
    Anyway, Im sure that the tires is not the cause of the vibrations, and I could be wrong, but my cheyenne can not be the only picup truck with this vibrations, so I was hopeing that someone here could recognise the problem and have a solution for it.

    Anyway, thank you all for putting up with this Swedes weard rambling, and for your suggestions of fixes.

  18. #18
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    I am still thinking as Ron described...A TIRE THAT'S GOT A BULGE

    The type of bad vibes you are talking about takes a hefty problem to shake to this extent.

    A drive shaft vibration (bad u joint) USUALLY will be a far less violent thing.

    The one possibility would be a BENT DRIVE SHAFT...but this type of issue would normally shake even at lower speeds.

    One possibility could be a drive shaft that had a replacement yoke welded on and it was not placed in PHASE.

    A situation like this can shake pretty bad and will not show up at lower speeds as much.

    Now...

    A different possibility...
    Does the front end seem to wobble back and forth (Steering)

    An alignment issue can cause DEATH WOBBLE where the front wheels will hunt back and forth.

    This is usually caused by a TOE OUT condition. NORMAL TOE IS 0-1/16" or something of this nature.

    If the vibration seems to be and UP-DOWN thing, then I am still thinking TIRE/S
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by FunLight View Post
    The only way to get this vibration to stop, is to slow down a little.
    Does it get worse if you speed up?

  20. #20
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    Default Vibrations

    When I bought the car and was driving it home, I remember thinking that it was very nice to drive. With the big tires and a semiruff pattern on them, I was expecting a lot of tire noice and maybe a bit wobbly on the road.

    There was nothing of that, it was very easy to steer and run steady on the road up to ca 90 kmh, around 55 mph where it started to vibrate hard and made a loud noice of a stonecrusher.

    I noticed that it did not happened in exactly the same speed, but started around 53 up to 57 mph, and stopped directly if I eased up with the throttle, and came back again if I increased the gas.

    In between it run smootly without any vibrations or sounds, and the problem appears with a very distinct on and off feeling, and not increasing with the speed. It really feels and sounds like a mechanical problem, so I asked on this forum in hope that someone recogniced it from before.

    Its maybe a little off topic, but I want to tell you of a Swedish guy that had a big reportage in a Swedisk car magazine.
    He is programming the chip in 6.2 and 6.5 engines in the most amazing way, and shaves the time 0 to 100 kmh from 17.2 to 9.6 seconds in another old 1994 truck. Other advantages is lower milage and overall a nicer drivability.

    Im going to order a chip tomorrow, and it dont cost moore than 388 us dollar with the exchange course of today. A nice thing is that the customer do not need to send the box to him like a lot of other chipsellers, but the number on my chip is enough for him.

    If anyone is interested in this guy and want moore info about the chip, you can send me a pm and I will try to translate from the magazine, and if you want, help you to get your own chip.

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