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Thread: New Member, Old Truck

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Knoxville,Tennessee
    Posts
    2,639

    Default

    It doesn't freeze in Texas? I thought everywhere there did. I lived in Fort Worth for 3 years and enjoyed watching people that had no clue driving on ice. That and watching them crack up listening to KPLEX and the Hiney Wine commercials or Little Susy and her Car Aerobics.


    Yes cracks in the block or heads. I had a 383 once that I sold to a guy and I told him to test it first. He got it all bolted in his pickup and started to fill with fluids and they started running everywhere.
    "The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government."
    -Patrick Henry


    A5150nut
    2006 K3500 D/A
    94 6.5 4x4 5spd Sold

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    SE Texas
    Posts
    38

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    Dallas and North Texas are a different environment than SE Texas (Houston area but more coastal). It does, on occasion, reach 31.9 deg F here and pandemonium breaks out. But overall, it really doesn't freeze, and if we do get a light freeze, it doesn't last but for a few hours.

    The engine has always had anti-freeze in it, even if it's old. The anti-freeze that we got out didn't look nearly as bad as I thought it should have.

    I bought the book advertised by this site. I'm hoping it will arrive this week.

    We took the radiator to a shop in Houston but he said it would cost $600 to recore it so we bought a new aluminum one for $350. We are saving the original just in case we ever decided to get it restored.

    Quote Originally Posted by a5150nut View Post
    It doesn't freeze in Texas? I thought everywhere there did. I lived in Fort Worth for 3 years and enjoyed watching people that had no clue driving on ice. That and watching them crack up listening to KPLEX and the Hiney Wine commercials or Little Susy and her Car Aerobics.


    Yes cracks in the block or heads. I had a 383 once that I sold to a guy and I told him to test it first. He got it all bolted in his pickup and started to fill with fluids and they started running everywhere.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    SE Texas
    Posts
    38

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    So far we’ve got all the accessories out ( water pump, alternator, AC compressor, radiator, etc). Pulled the fuel tank last night. The lines from the fuel tank to the low pressure fuel pump are a mixture of steel and rubber. Going to clear those and change all the rubber.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    SE Texas
    Posts
    38

    Default

    Also we’re putting in a new fuel tank/filler hoses and hardware.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    SE Texas
    Posts
    38

    Default

    I found the plug to the block heater zip tied in its factory storage condition. Radiator is here too.

    A previous reply said it was a 16 gallon tank does anybody know if that’s right?

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    SE Texas
    Posts
    38

    Default

    All 8 glow plugs successfully removed! Water pump installed.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    SE Texas
    Posts
    38

    Default

    Sprayed a little mystery oil into the glow plug holes. Waited a few days and then turned the motor over by hand. Fuel tank is here but we have not received the new straps and bolt up hardware. We have replaced all the fuel lines that were rubber up to the fuel pump (except one piece that we will tackle soon).

    We do have a new fuel filter, but I thought I read that there were two filters?

    I thought the fuel system went like this: Tank-->Mechanical Pump-->fuel filter-->injector pump-->injectors-->return line-->fuel tank. The fuel lines get a little fuzzy at the back of the engine an I can't quite see where they go exactly but now maybe I think they go to the firewall filter first? Is that right? Where is the 2nd filter?

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,573

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    1983 models had 2 filters in OEM trim. Tank --> Primary --> Lift pump --> Secondary --> IP.

    If you have only one in the system, it's probably OK, especially if it's a later, more efficient type, and installed between the lift pump and injection pump. It has a simple job, and only has to do it. You can also upgrade any OEM filters to modern aftermarket (such as Racor) that uses more common (and much less expensive) filter elements, as well as some being more helpful with priming (some have pumps, which goes a long way to help the starting system). I regularly recommend this, as the OEM filters and parts are becoming more and more rare and costly. Even a Duramax filter would be a good option, compared to the original. Filter elements aren't cheap, but they are very effective and you can find them anywhere. It also has a priming pump, as well as a heater. You may be able to find the assembly in a wreck for cheap.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    SE Texas
    Posts
    38

    Default

    Which is the filter on the firewall? Primary or secondary?

    I'm a little confused on the fuel lines. After it leaves the fuel tank I traced them to the back of the engine compartment at which point they kind of snake around the block and I can't really see where they go exactly and they also cross with the other fuel lines. But it almost looks like it goes to the firewall filter then to the mechanical fuel pump. I haven't really gotten under there and looked real hard just looking from the top and wiggling the lines. Regardless the fuel lines are attached to the mechanical pump.

    Quote Originally Posted by DmaxMaverick View Post
    1983 models had 2 filters in OEM trim. Tank --> Primary --> Lift pump --> Secondary --> IP.

    If you have only one in the system, it's probably OK, especially if it's a later, more efficient type, and installed between the lift pump and injection pump. It has a simple job, and only has to do it. You can also upgrade any OEM filters to modern aftermarket (such as Racor) that uses more common (and much less expensive) filter elements, as well as some being more helpful with priming (some have pumps, which goes a long way to help the starting system). I regularly recommend this, as the OEM filters and parts are becoming more and more rare and costly. Even a Duramax filter would be a good option, compared to the original. Filter elements aren't cheap, but they are very effective and you can find them anywhere. It also has a priming pump, as well as a heater. You may be able to find the assembly in a wreck for cheap.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Sarasota
    Posts
    131

    Default

    On my old van there was a filter mounted below the cab, before the mechanical pump and then a 2nd one on top of the engine behind the intake manifold between the mechanical lift pump and the injector pump. The mounting locations will be different on a truck compared to my van, but if you have two, there should be a filter before and after the mechanical lift pump. If it only has one filter (either OEM or a conversion) it would be between the lift pump and the injector pump. My current van has an aftermarket Racor behind the manifold, between the lift and injector pumps. It is nice because it has a primer and made pumping up my fuel system after replacing my head a simple process. I recommend it as a very useful modification.

  11. #31
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    SE Texas
    Posts
    38

    Default

    Got a P/N for the Racor filter with a pump on it?

  12. #32
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    SE Texas
    Posts
    38

    Default

    Fuel tank installed finally. What a PITA.

    Replaced all fuel lines up to the injector pump.

    We spun the motor over with the gp out to see if we could get fuel to the ip. We disconnected the wire from the ip solenoid. We didn’t think about the oil cooler lines and after about 2-3 attempts had oil all over the floor. We will put a loop in the line today and try again.

  13. #33
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Yukon Canada
    Posts
    1,612

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheGoose View Post
    Fuel tank installed finally. What a PITA.

    Replaced all fuel lines up to the injector pump.

    We spun the motor over with the gp out to see if we could get fuel to the ip. We disconnected the wire from the ip solenoid. We didn’t think about the oil cooler lines and after about 2-3 attempts had oil all over the floor. We will put a loop in the line today and try again.

    You need 12V to the solenoid or it will remain closed
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  14. #34
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    SE Texas
    Posts
    38

    Default

    Danged if the motor didn't fire right up. Ran it about 20 seconds or so. Now re-connecting all the accessories and radiator parts.

    Q: What is the best coolant to use for this engine?

  15. #35
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Yukon Canada
    Posts
    1,612

    Default

    Good quality green stuff
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

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