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Thread: Just got my headers installed Now to turn up the pump?

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Hagerstown MD
    Posts
    11

    Default Just got my headers installed Now to turn up the pump?

    So just got exhaust work done. I installed Stan's headers and 2.5" dual exhaust with flow master 40s. Just driving home from shop I did not see much improvement outside of a quiet cab and nice sound. I hope that all of that will change after the pump is adjusted. I have looked up on youtube and found out how to turn it up but how much? some say 1/8 to a 1/4 of a turn? will the turn it up till it smokes then back it off work? If someone has swapped injectors to better match the headers what did ya go with? I also seem to have more white smoke than before is that a common problem with swapping headers I'm not sure how its related.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2000
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    11,393

    Arrow

    Did you do any performance testing with the truck in stock form so you can compare?

    Generally, a turbocharger install will benefit from a bump in fuel metering adjustment (generally about 1/8 turn, maybe a little more). Just a free-flowing exhaust will probably require less of a fuel increase.

    We did a lot of performance testing here in the late 1990s and early 2000s with the 6.2L diesel, both non-turbo and turbocharged. What we found is that if you did everything possible to improve performance, short of a turbo/supercharger, you can expect a performance increase approaching 10%. A turbocharger installation and fuel metering adjustment adds 40%+.

    In either case, I recommend installing an exhaust temperature gauge, which is great to help you adjust the fuel rate - keep it safe. Jim

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Ft. Wayne, In.
    Posts
    535

    Default

    I agree with MP on the exhaust temperature gauge.
    Please do this first, then you can fiddle with the pump.
    Not paying attention to the exhaust temp gets expensive fast.
    d
    Dave, N9LOV
    Member #242
    Dave's Diesels:
    Sold June, 07 '82 1/2 ton 4X4;340k miles
    '97 2 Dr Tahoe, Intercooled,
    Kennedy ECM, 4" Exhaust
    '02 GMC

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2000
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    11,393

    Arrow

    Because the original 6.2L piston crowns were not anodized, Gale Banks recommended that we consider 1100 degrees F (in the ex manifold temp) as the maximum EGT - for the time it takes to pull the longest grade. I know through experience that this is a safe exhaust temperature.

    Anecdotal... I had heard from a turbo 6.2L owner some years ago who pulled a trailer across the state of Texas - in the summer, and saw EGTs in the 1200 range all day long. He reported that he didn't hurt the engine.

    My experience with setting the fuel rate for a non-turbo 6.2L is that whenever I began seeing wisps of black smoke, I knew EGT was climbing. The darker the smoke became the higher I recorded for EGT. There is such a narrow window between OK and too hot, that I know that the use of an EGT gauge is the only way you can prevent damage and still push fueling/performance.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Granby, Missouri, USA
    Posts
    3,084

    Default

    From my experience, EGT's on a naturally aspirated engine tend to run much higher than a turbo model. I used to tow regularly with my '81 C20 that I swapped in a 6.2L N/A, with Lee Swanger exhaust mods that allowed full 2.5" dual exhaust from the factory manifolds back. I even towed my 5th wheel to the DP Rendezvous in Ohio back in 2001 with this rig. At the time, it was not unusual to see 1200* to 1300* EGT's while towing, with spikes to 1400* on long grades. When I first installed the Pyrometer, it scared the willies out of me, but I soon learned the engine was quite happy at those temps, and no damage seemed to result, even after several years of towing.

    I installed a turbo on the same engine with no other mods, and EGT's immediately dropped to a max of 1050* due to the turbo pushing more air through the cylinders.

    My opinion is that EGT's are not that critical on a N/A engine, due to lower cylinder pressures. I don't think you can add enough fuel on a N/A 6.2L to cause damage from EGT's. It's only when you add a turbo and increase fuel that problems start to arise. At least that's my opinion based on my experiences!

    Casey
    1995 K1500 Tahoe 2 door, 6.5LTD, 4L80E, NP241, 3.42's, 285/75R16 BFG K02's; 1997 506 block; Kennedy OPS harness, gauges, Quick Heat plugs, and TD-Max chip; Dtech FSD on FSD Cooler; vacuum pump deleted, HX35 turbo, Turbo Master, 3.5" Kennedy exhaust, F code intake; dual t/stats, HO water pump, Champion radiator; Racor fuel filter

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Hagerstown MD
    Posts
    11

    Default

    So I turned up the pump about 1/8th of a turn clock wise. There is no black smoke when you mash it. So far things are great. As for power seat of the pants tells me its more. takes about 18s to get to 60 mph. the only thing besides headers that are not stock is its got a J code intake W/O EGR. had a J code the whole time and never noticed it.

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