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Thread: Help needed from Sweden

  1. #21
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    Martinsville, IN
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    Default

    Beware.

  2. #22
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    Sweden. Viking Country
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    Default Of what

    Quote Originally Posted by ronniejoe View Post
    Beware.
    I dont understand, beware of what ??

  3. #23
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    Newberg Oregon
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    In regards to the bad vibes.

    Check the front CV joints and the rear drive shaft joints.
    Also check the front wheel bearings.

    A failing CV and or a bearing can make nasty noises.

    Jack the front wheels up.
    Grab the top of the tire and push in toward the frame.

    Any slop is not good.

    A bearing thats going away can make terrible noise and thumping noise.

    Big tires are tough on these trucks as the front bearings are not all the durable.

    I assume this rig as a 4x4
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  4. #24
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Robyn View Post
    In regards to the bad vibes.

    Check the front CV joints and the rear drive shaft joints.
    Also check the front wheel bearings.

    A failing CV and or a bearing can make nasty noises.

    Jack the front wheels up.
    Grab the top of the tire and push in toward the frame.

    Any slop is not good.

    A bearing thats going away can make terrible noise and thumping noise.

    Big tires are tough on these trucks as the front bearings are not all the durable.

    I assume this rig as a 4x4
    Jupp, its a quad drive. You got a point there Robyn, I will try what you suggest and see if any bearings or joints are moving in a non desired way. Personally so does it feel like a worn and failing crossjoint, or whatever you call it in english.

    Big tires is maybe mostly in my eyes since I never owned anything with larger tires before, this truck has 16 inch wheels and feels gigantic. My second car thats being replaced with this when Im done, is an ordinary Astro van with ordinary wheels.

    I dont know the original size of wheels to this truck, so I dont know if 16 inches is that big or not.
    By the way, what is the CV you write about, since I dont have any litt for this truck yet, Im not so sure of what the different parts are named.

    At Ronniejoe.
    I think you are on to something regarding the starting problems. I could be wrong, but should this truck have two diesel pumps ?? The seller was saying that one of the pumps did not work, so he bought a cheep pump and mounted it under the passenger side and made a power connection to a breaker on the panel. Could it be that this cheap pump is to small and dont have the muscle for reaching the right diesel pressure, and that could be the reason for the hard starting ???

  5. #25
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    Newberg Oregon
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    16 inch is a standard size for these rigs.

    Probably 245/75 x 16 or ???

    The CV joint is the universal joint in the boot by the front A arms where the axles come through to the wheel.


    The drive shaft universal joints or crosses are the on the drive lines.

    The thumping could very well be WHEEL BEARING going bad.
    These are a cartridge type ball bearing and when they fail the bearings can start to climb on each other and bind up.

    I have never seen one come totally apart, but they can get pretty noisy and make nasty thumps.

    The bearings are held in with 4 bolts from the back side of the assembly.

    DO NOT use a 12 point socket on these, as the bolts are very tight and the corners will round over.

    Use a 15 mm impact or a 6 point.

    I had to turn down an impact socket to get it to fit into the recess where the bolt heads are.

    Getting the assembly off is not hard, but takes a bit of work.

    The bearing and the rotor come off in one chunk.

    After you get the assembly off you can remove the lug studs and separate the rotor from the bearing flange.

    Just use a piece of brass plate and a good sized hammer and tap the lug studs out.

    As long as the studs are good just reuse them, same for the rotor.

    Remove the retaining bolts on the disk brake caliper and hang it up out of the way with a rope/wire or ??? to keep the hose from damage...no need to unhook the brake hose.
    Last edited by Robyn; 12-04-2018 at 09:23.
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by FunLight View Post
    At Ronniejoe.
    I think you are on to something regarding the starting problems. I could be wrong, but should this truck have two diesel pumps ?? The seller was saying that one of the pumps did not work, so he bought a cheep pump and mounted it under the passenger side and made a power connection to a breaker on the panel. Could it be that this cheap pump is to small and dont have the muscle for reaching the right diesel pressure, and that could be the reason for the hard starting ???
    The factory configuration for these trucks has an electric solenoid type lift pump mounted inside the frame rail under the driver's door. This pump pulls fuel out of the tank and supplies pressurized fuel through the filter to the inlet of the injection pump. This supply pressure should be about 4 psi.

    If this pump is not working, then the transfer pump inside the injection pump has to pull fuel all the way from the tank, through the filter with vacuum. This causes hard starting and can cause intermittent shut off by sucking air into the system. It is also hard on the injection pump internals.

    As for my beware comment, there are many charlatans out there who make outlandish claims about horsepower gains from programming changes. Most of these are bogus. I operate if not the highest output, one of the highest output 6.5s around and it takes more than a chip to get there.

    The reason that you don't have to send your computer in to be reprogrammed is that your truck is a 1994 OBD1 system. 1994 and 1995 trucks are OBD1 with a removable EPROM. This EPROM is where the calibration data is stored for the program and is all that needs to be changed to change fuel rate, boost, timing, etc. On 1996 and newer trucks, the control system is OBD2. This controller does not have a removable EPROM, so the whole computer must be sent in for reprogramming or must be exchanged to change calibrations.

  7. #27
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    Nov 2018
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    Sweden. Viking Country
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    Default All work no play

    Ok, here I am again. Ive been quiet a couple of days and trying to sort the combined brakelight and worklight in the back of the roof to work, but end up pulling my hair.
    However I will take a tour on my trusted roll board and check all bearings and joints, and see if there is any problems down under.

    There should not be any problems because like I think I mentioned erlier, the truck has been on the yearly checkup just weeks ago.
    To drive on the roads here and to not get a big fine and maybe even loose your license, the car has to do this top to bottom checkup yearly, and amongst a long list of tests they put the whole front and rear end to the test with a pneumatic twisting board.
    If there is any bad bearings or joints they will find it and tell you to fix it, and the last checkup on this one was ok, but I will double check anyway.

    Regarding the chip I hear you Ronniejoe, Im not easy to fool in any way, but with this chip there is a lot of data and a full two sides report in a well known Swedish magazine, and that would not be there if it was some sort of scam.
    However I ordered myself one of those chips, so If you guys want to know I could give you a report later when Ive got a chance to test it. That is if you are interested to know.
    Over and out, and now I will go back to my dear beaklight and cables with changing colors.

    Oohhhh, I forgot to report that the new vacuum pump finally arrived today, so in a short wile I will be able to start the truck up and see if there is any improvement and maybe a bit fewer codes to sort out.
    Last edited by FunLight; 12-07-2018 at 12:42. Reason: Bad memory

  8. #28
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    Default Magazine link

    http://www.worldkustom.com/november-...y-on-steroids/

    I hope this link works. I found out that you could choose english on the magazine site with the chip I ordered, so have a look and decide for your self if you need to beware.

  9. #29
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    Default

    Damed I hate electrical problems, you fix one and another pops up.

    However, I got the new pump in place and now the codes are all gone, exept for one.
    Now it flashes code 18, and the weird thing is that it just flashes 18 and nothing else, and do so indefinitly. I gave up watching it after it flashed the same code like 17 times.
    I thought that it should start with 12 three times, and then the fault code, and finish of with 12 again.

    One of Code 18 symptom could as far as I understand, be a hard start, and that sounds like my truck. There is a couple of tests I could do, but I read that debree in the diesel could be the cause.

    When I was dealing with the seller he said that the truck had been unused for a time, and the diesel in the tank smelled badly. After that he filled some fuel, and I had to put some in for my jurney home to, but theoreticly I guess that there could be some junk left in the system to mess with the sensor in the pump.

    Is my theory plausable or do I got it wrong, and is there anyone with a smart fix to the problem ??
    Last edited by FunLight; 12-08-2018 at 16:53. Reason: Bad english

  10. #30
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    Default Ronniejoe

    Now I pressure tested the external pump under the drivers seat, and its pumping the fuel with a pressure slightly over 10 psi. That takes care of the fuel pressure issues, or what do you think ?

    There is just one thing that bugs me. On my second ride, Chev Astro 1995 the pump works until the pressure is up, and then it stoppes until the pressure goes down when the engine starts, and then it starts again.

    The external pump does not stop until I cut of the power. I dont know much of fuel pumps, but could it be some internal pressure switch in some pumps, and none in this, equals a cheep pump ?

    I ordered a couple of diesel additives from Winn today, since the truck has been parked for a unnown amount of time, it could be some stuff growing in the tank, and I hope to flush those out with a biocide, and maybe clean the injectors at the same time.

  11. #31
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    The code 18 is "PUMP CAM REFERENCE PULSE ERROR"
    This signal is generated by the optical sensor in the Injection pump, and is very important.

    10 psi pressure is too high for the system....4-5 psi is the spec measured at the inlet to the injection pump.

    Has the electric pump on the frame been replaced by some other type ???

    The fuel pump should not run continuously unless the engine is running. (Safety thing)
    When the key is turned to START (Starter activated) the pump should operate and when the engine starts the pump should continue to run.

    The electric pump should not operate with key on/engine off...or if it does, only for a short time.

    PICTURE PLEASE
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robyn View Post
    The code 18 is "PUMP CAM REFERENCE PULSE ERROR"
    This signal is generated by the optical sensor in the Injection pump, and is very important.

    10 psi pressure is too high for the system....4-5 psi is the spec measured at the inlet to the injection pump.

    Has the electric pump on the frame been replaced by some other type ???

    The fuel pump should not run continuously unless the engine is running. (Safety thing)
    When the key is turned to START (Starter activated) the pump should operate and when the engine starts the pump should continue to run.

    The electric pump should not operate with key on/engine off...or if it does, only for a short time.


    PICTURE PLEASE
    Yup, I agree.
    First the optical sensor, that was the thingy I ment in my post. As far as I understand there is a chance that I can salvage the sensor with this expensive bio additive. Im thinking of letting the 10 psi empty the tank, and then fill it up with fresh diesel and this additive, and then hold my thumbs that it will clean up the sensor enough to work properly again.

    I read that this sensor costs mucho dineros, so if the chemicals would do the job........

    Ok, could I connect a pressure regulator on the line from the 10 psi pump, and that way restrict the fuel pressure to 4 psi ?? The pump is replaced by the previously owner, and he said that it was a cheap knockoff, and is started manually with a switch in the panel.

    On my Astro the pump start when I turn the key to power on, and turn itself off when it reaches the right pressure. I was thinking that I would connect the power from the key, and add something that turns the pump off as soon it reaches the right pressure, or is that an expensive and dumb way to go ?? I guess that a new correct pump for my truck is expensive, but a homemade solution could also be costly, so what to do. ??

    Oh, what do you want a picture of ?? Not my fair apperance I hope ??

  13. #33
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    The original fuel pump system used a relay in the box on the RH side of the firewall to activate the pump when the key is turned to CRANK. (LEFT HAND DRIVE RIGS)

    Once the oil pressure came up the oil pressure switch on the rear of the engine just about under the glow plug relay would power the fuel pump.

    YESSSSSSS, get the fuel pressure to 4-5 psi

    The pump also needs to be able to move about 30-40 gallons per hour.

    Cool fuel keeps the injection pump cool too, and hence the reason to move that much fuel
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  14. #34
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    I definitly feel lucky to get your help Robyn. Your well of knowledge of my engine seems bottomless, so thank you. Now enough with the praise.

    I will dive in and take a look at the pump in place, and yesterday I found what I think is the original pump. Its a tubelike thing with in and out pipes and a electrical connection. I did a ohm check and that was telling me that the pump was a gonner.
    Ill be back when I have moore info.

  15. #35
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    Thank you..

    Here is a link to a good picture of what the original pump should look like...

    https://usdieselparts.com/i-18878335...9-gm-6-5l.html
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  16. #36
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    Hi
    If it is the optical sensor that is bad you can change it yourself.
    I did change one on my truck and had no issues.
    I followed the directions that someone else had posted,it may have been Casey.
    i salvaged one from an old pump,and got lucky that it was still good.
    Thomas
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  17. #37
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    Default Pump

    Well, if the original pump look that way the broken pump I found is also a aftermarket copy, and not even a good one.

    Now I think I found the relays under the cover right next to the cooling fluid container, as Robyn mentioned. There is two relays there, one small with two wires, and a bigger one with five wires. I dont know witch one, but takes a chance with the bigger one and hope its the right one.

    If someone could explaine moore in detail how I will find the oil pressure switch that activates the pump I would be happier. Its a snake pit with cables and connections in between the engine and the firewall. Some previosly owner has been there and teared down everything without plugging it back in the holes the fastening plugs should be in.

    Im going down on my board to check the pump and cables now, and I really hope that they did not cut the original cables when they was connecting the aftermarket pump.
    As usual, Ill be back.

  18. #38
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    The oil pressure sender is to the right of center (looking in from the front of the engine bay.

    The switch screws into the top of the block near the rear of the head near the flange where the trans. bolts on.

    Almost directly under the glow plug controller

    Here is a piccy of the 6.5 .....THE BLACK ARROW IS POINTING AT THE OIL SENDING UNIT,

    I had the fitting wrapped with silver duct tape that can be seen where the arrow is pointing

    Normally there is a brass angled fitting that threads into the block and the switch threads into the adapter fitting..
    Attached Images Attached Images
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  19. #39
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    Default Fuel connections and pump

    I think there will be two pictres of the pump and the connections, hopefully
    Its a Edelbrock mini pump, but it still got a 10 psi pressure so its quite powerful concidering the size. Im a little depressed since I didnt find anything that looked like original cabels.

    Diving down under the truck includes some back pain, but I will have another look after taking some pain medz.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  20. #40
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    Here is another good rear shot of the 6.5.

    BLACK ARROW pointing at the oil pressure switch location
    Attached Images Attached Images
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

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