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Thread: Help needed from Sweden

  1. #61
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    Nov 2018
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    Yes, thanx Maverick.
    I will borrow the carlift in the next garage tomorrow and have a look. The reason that I suspected a vacuum leak close to the transmission was that the sound was coming from there,, I thought.

    I know that its hard to determine exactly from where a sound like this originates from, so I just have to try and have an open mind. I can however announce that the x4 seems to work fine, but Im not sure that all of the lamps on the side of the lever works.

    I also took a testdrive to see if the vibrations stopped. I found out that a cross on one shaft was moving in one direction. A previous grease monkey had missed that one of the bearing cups was not all the way in when he was mounting the cross in to its place. That made the cross movable at one direction, so I tighten it hoping that this was the reason for the vibrations, but no cigarr.

    I was driving in around 85 kmh, and when I pressed the throttle it started again. Im not able to drive faster than 90 kmh as it is now. I suppose that Autobahn in Germany is out of the question at this time. Bummer......

  2. #62
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    If the "cross" (U-joint - universal joint) was loose for any amount of driving, it needs to be replaced. When the cups are loose or improperly positioned in the yoke, the bearings (needles) move about laterally, get damaged, and end up in the end of the cup (often in small pieces, leaving fewer bearings in correct position to bear a load, not to mention damage to the cup's bearing surface). This leaves you with a drivetrain vibration, still. You may have other issues with the drivetrain, but the joint needs to be replaced, regardless.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  3. #63
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    Nov 2018
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    Hi guys, its the weird Swede again.
    Thought I forgot about you, nooooo chance.

    However, the pump arrived and I was lucky enough that the treads was the same on the new pump as they were on the old, so I just moved the coupling from old to new and presto.
    But right now Im plying around with the hoses that needed to be changed.

    I will also try out the tip I found for a couple of tests you could do to hopefully kick some life in the sensor before you separate yourself from moore cash for a new one. I have hope that it would do the trick, but I know better than expect anything with cars.

    BUT I have another problem that seems to be impossible, in Sweden anyway.
    Behind the heater unit it is three small bulbs delivering the light to the buttons. In my unit all three bulbs is fryed, and the hunt for new ones began.

    Unfortionally the hunt was without result here in Sweden. Ive called and sent email to anyone that might have these bulbs, but the answer I got was that they are outdated.
    Hopefully some of you guys got a tip to where there will be light, or maybe know of some trick or another bulb that fits.

    I hope you know witch bulb I mean, its the small glassbulb soldered in a plastic foot with a flat behind and a grove for a strait screwdriver. All I have found on the internet and here in Sweden is the plastic one with a butt that sticks out. That one wont fit because there is a component card that moore or less stands vertically on the flat behind of the bulbs.

    Well, no moore time left to torture you with my never ending posts. To my defense I think grammatically in Swedish and write in swenglish, and there a lot of corrections before anything flyes away to this nice forum, but the posts still feels way to long and full of a madmans rambling.

  4. #64
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    Nov 2018
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    Another short question.
    I found a suggestion that the noice filter thats connected to the optical sensor could be the problem and cause the code 17,18. The advise is to remove the filter and see if the problem goes away.

    What it dont say is, if the code dissapears and everything is right with the world and the truck runs perfect again, could I then forget about the filter and drive happily in to the sunset, or could that destroy something in the engine and I need to order a new noice filter asap and not use the truck without it ??????

  5. #65
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    The filter is there for a reason. If it is faulty, replace it.

  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by ronniejoe View Post
    The filter is there for a reason. If it is faulty, replace it.
    Ok, thanx for the explanation, good to know.

    Whats the ordinary fuel consumption I could expect with my truck ??
    I know its in some sort of safe mode with the code still there, and thats why the engine maybe burn moore fuel than normal.

    What I dont know is how much diesel a 6,5 TD in ok condition needs. My truck is like a camel before a desert crossing, it fills up the humps so fast that I can see the needle move.

    Another thing is the 4x4. Some of the time when I pull the stick to the 4 wheel position, it lights up and I can feel that its in. Next time when I do the same nothing happends, no light and I sometimes have to shift between D and R a couple of times until the front wheels joins the party. Is there something I can do to make it work everytime that you know about and would share with me ??

  7. #67
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    Nov 2018
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    Happy New Year to you all from Sweden.

    Youre probably all busy with family and friends, but I hope that someone with knowledge has the time and will to share it with me.

    I losened the optical sensor yesterday to clean it and hopefully get it to work. That did not happened as I should have expected.
    My question is if someone know what surface its suppose to have ? There was a center of metal and two greenish slots like plastic, but should they have a surface a bit ruff or should they be polished ??

    My sensor was a bit ruff, and the metal center had a lot of small pits like it has been oxidized.
    Im thinking of trying to polish the surface since Ive got nothing to loose, or is there another way to save the sensor ? I found a new one in the US, but it will cost me a bunch of money before Ive got the part in my hand.

  8. #68
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    Dec 2003
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    Happy New Year from the great white north.
    I cannot remember what my sensor looked like.
    I will try to remember to open up my pump at the shop today.
    Any chance you or someone else has a pump to salvage one out of?
    Thomas
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

  9. #69
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    Apr 2001
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    Newberg Oregon
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    The front end is engaged by the THERMAL ACTUATOR on the RH axle tube of the front diffy.

    Your may be getting tired.

    Many time the rig must be moved a bit to get the light to come on due to parts that must engage.

    There is a kit the has a cable and goes from the dash down to the diffy and manually engages the thing...


    These units work sweet. No issues due to electrical gizmos.....
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robyn View Post
    The front end is engaged by the THERMAL ACTUATOR on the RH axle tube of the front diffy.

    Your may be getting tired.

    Many time the rig must be moved a bit to get the light to come on due to parts that must engage.

    There is a kit the has a cable and goes from the dash down to the diffy and manually engages the thing...


    These units work sweet. No issues due to electrical gizmos.....
    Hi there Robyn.
    Well, I found a guy in Stockholm Sweden that own 3 defect 6,5 pumps with the optical sensor still in place. He posted one of them to me today, and he wants ca $60 to 65 for one, and if its defect he will send me another one.

    Anyway, if I understod you right the sensor is lit up when some other parts activates a electrical puls, and there is a manual cabel axessorie for sale that is mounted on the dash so I could send this puls myself from the drivers seat, and that way get it to work ??

    First of all, how do I know whats broken in the first place, Is the sensor defect or does it not get any signal ?
    If I want to test it I have to fabricate a lid for the hole if I take out the sensor, and I need a long wire connection for the sensor if I want it cloes enough to the driver seat to see if it will light up, or not.

  11. #71
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    The activation of the front differential works like this..

    Lever placed in 4x4
    Lever places the transfer case in gear to allow 4x4
    An electrical switch is activated by the lever also.
    12 volts is applied to the THERMAL ACTUATOR ON THE FRONT RH diffy axle tube.
    The thermal actuator heats up internally and pushes a rod into the unit to engage the drive coupling.

    The mechanical cable type system simply replaces the thermal actuator with a manual cable and linkage...

    https://www.googleadservices.com/pag..._-4x4-posi-lok
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  12. #72
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    Aaahhhh, now I get it.
    Robyn, youre talking about my earlier post about my diff and the front wheels lack of engagement sometimes.

    My last posts was about the optical sensor, and thats why I had some problems understanding what you meant.
    Anyway, your tip is good and definitly relevant for me further down the road, so thanx.

  13. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by FunLight View Post
    Aaahhhh, now I get it.
    Robyn, youre talking about my earlier post about my diff and the front wheels lack of engagement sometimes.

    My last posts was about the optical sensor, and thats why I had some problems understanding what you meant.
    Anyway, your tip is good and definitly relevant for me further down the road, so thanx.
    Mechanical front diff engagement isn't your only other option. You can also "upgrade" the thermal system to the later electric motor system. It works like the door locks, rather than relying on a heating coil and thermocouple. The thermal system is prone to slow engagement when it's really cold. Heavy lube, contamination and age causes slow/no engagement when the temps are below freezing. The electric motor system is much more positive and predictable.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  14. #74
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    1995 and later had the electric servo motor and as Maverick mentioned were better.

    The posilok is almost fool proof and does not rely on any electrical switches or electrical components whatsoever.

    If I needed a rig in very nasty conditions I would go for the cable actuator..

    I have never been a fan of the electrically or vacuum 4x4 actuators.

    When the weather gets nasty and 4x4 is an absolute must have, the last thing you need is a magic box to fail and leave you stranded..

    The newer rigs with either The push button or twist knob selectors that control the transfer case are in my estimation a bridge too far.

    My personal idea is "KEEP IT SIMPLE" Twist the hubs in, pull the lever into 4x4 and go....

    The electronics are USUALLY fine, but they are not going to fail on a nice warm summer afternoon sitting in the garage.

    When they fail will likely be on a cold dark stormy night when the snow is up to the bumper and it's COLDER THAN SIN.....
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  15. #75
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    Well, I dont know your snow situation in the winter, but I live in Gavle in the middle of Sweden, and the last winters here has been moderate. When I moved here 18 years ago I bought a Polaris snowmobile, and sold it again after two winters moore or less without any snow.

    The last time anyone needed a 4x4 truck here was between 4-7 december 1998 when Gavle was hit by a blizzard and the snowdepth increased from 1 cm to 198 cm in these 4 days.

    I guess that Robyn in Oregon has snow enough in the winter, but Maverick in California, if I read CA right, probably drive mostly in mud or sand maybe.

    I guess that the reason to my trannys reluctans is the temperature thats below zero, not much below but enough.

  16. #76
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    Where we live is at around 1200 feet elevation (366 meters) and we can get Snow here and usually have some each winter.

    The last bad winter was 2008 with about 4 feet (1.3 meters approx)

    It was cold too with temps in the single digits F (About -15 C) The last few winters have been far less nasty...

    Last year we had about 12 inches (approx 30 cm)


    We have had winters with very cold temps.... (-17 C) but this is not the normal.

    Normally we see rain and low 40's F and the occasional drop into the low to mid 20's F

    Where we are we are right in the lower edge of the cloud deck, so it gets sloppy.
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  17. #77
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    I base my dislike of a lot of the fancy electronics on the 4x4 to have a rig that I can depend on when it counts.

    When we get 3 weeks of nasty windy driving rain and everything is soaking wet, then the temp plummets into the below freezing area overnight and it dumps snow on us, I want things to work.

    The last thing I want is to crawl into the truck and not have the parts I need most work.

    A 4x4 without a working front end is really useless, and this is not the time I want to crawl under the beast with tools in hand....
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  18. #78
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    I agree with you not wanting to make repairs on a cold and wet vehicle. About the temperature in your home area, I think that you are lucky, this winter is really weard here with some days below zero, and the next day it will rain.

    A ordinary winter here use to have snow and everything between -5 to -25 degrees C.
    23 to-13 degrees F.
    My lowest reading happened when I was a young boy and visiting my mother in Solleftea in moore nothern parts of Sweden.
    My brother and I had to go outside on the 31 of december, and feel what is was like to be out in -50 degrees C. -58 degrees F.

    Another thing that popped up in my head. Is there any electronic speed or rev limiter when the truck is in the safe mode due to the faulty optical sensor ????

  19. #79
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    Not sure about the rev limiter, but others will likely chime in.

    Yessssssssssssss... I have been in -50 F weather WITH WIND

    Not pleasant at all...
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  20. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robyn View Post
    Not sure about the rev limiter, but others will likely chime in.

    Yessssssssssssss... I have been in -50 F weather WITH WIND

    Not pleasant at all...
    Aww it's not that bad
    Our Ranger Patrol camped in wall tents for 5 days where the daytime temps were-58C. We were required to get out snow machines running everyday and preform our Army duties.As Rangers we don't get outfitted by the Army,they give us some cloths ,guns,bullets and rations,but all our gear is personal kit
    It was an awesome 5 days,we were 20 miles from the highway on lake where there is an old Airforce plane sunk in WW2,it was on the route the US used to ferry planes to Russia
    25 of us from our town,another 25 came across country to join us,then we packed a runway for the Army Brass to fly in.Had a shoot in -56C that was interesting.It was so cold that if you wanted to load the clips for the C7's you were allowed to go full auto for the complete clip.
    The only ones that had problems with the cold were the Army Brass.
    I guess they didn't listen to the Rangers as we were training them for the cold.That is our mission all the time is to train the regular Army how to function in the cold.
    90 Chev 3500 c/c 4x4,6.2na,400 auto,4:10 gears.DSG Timing gears,main girdle, isspro tach, pyro,boost,oil and trany temp.Dual Tstats, High volume peninsular pump,on shelf, Custom turbo and intercooler 85%complete. Change of plans for the dually, it's going to get a Cummins. Both trucks are Blue 90 4x4 crews

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