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Thread: 1995 K2500 clutch

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Festus, MO.
    Posts
    173

    Default 1995 K2500 clutch

    So I'm going to be into this clutch soon and was wondering if there is any advantage to changing the external slave cylinder to the 96-up internal slave?

    Big Green

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Knoxville,Tennessee
    Posts
    2,639

    Default

    Don't know about the upgrade but I do know before you go moving things around remove the clutch line from the clutch master or you will end up braking it. Remove roll pin in top of line and remove line first thing. Any excess pressure on line will crack the plastic master cylinder.
    "The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government."
    -Patrick Henry


    A5150nut
    2006 K3500 D/A
    94 6.5 4x4 5spd Sold

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    South Central Pennsylvania, USA
    Posts
    2,697

    Default

    All that plastic is a real pain. I'd like to figure out a way to swap in metal components without too much hassle.
    '94 GMC 6.5TD K1500 4L80E 2-Door Yukon SLE 221K
    '93 Chevrolet 6.5TD K2500HD NV4500 Std. Cab Longbed 187K
    '85 Toyota 22R RN60 4x4 Std. Cab Shortbed 178K (Currently retired for rebuild)
    Diesel Page Member #2423

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Festus, MO.
    Posts
    173

    Default

    Well the thoughts of a later model swap went out the window yesterday.

    Pulling my 3 horse gooseneck up a Ozark Mountian hillside in 5th gear and 50% throttle the tach suddenly hit the rev limiter. Backed off and got it to grab and limped it home. Fortunately it wasn't that far away.

    So all new Luc clutch, flywheel, fork, pivot ball, rear main seal will be here Monday.

    Suspect the rear main the be a contributing factor in all this as well as it has been leaking for some time.

    Big Green

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