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Thread: Help needed from Sweden

  1. #81
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Sweden. Viking Country
    Posts
    44

    Default

    And I thought that my minus 50 C was something special, or like the tuff ones that lives up north in Sweden says, at minus 50 C they have to dig out the long sleeved shirts because its a minor draft outside, but the moonshine is perfectly chilled.

    However, I raised the question about a possible rev limiter as long as the code 18 remaines. Is it possible that there is a electronic cutout at 85-90 kmh that makes the vibrations I mentioned in previous posts ??

    Another issue appeared yesterday. I was driving on a strait road and tried to speed it up to 90, when the whole truck jumped and it felt and sounded like I was about to drop something from the undercarriage. It appeared again once, but nothing later on. Ive been rolling around under the truck and looked for anything that could explain the vibrations, but everything seems bolted on right.

    Then my third issue for today. I was checking down the fuel tank and discovered that someone drilled a hole strait through the lid. My question is if that is bad in any way, or if I could ignore it and not have buy a new lid, anytime soon anyway ??

    BTW I called the guy in Stockholm and asked if he sent the used optical sensor yet, because I should have had it yesterday, and I found out that he forgot about it but will send it today.

    I get soooo tired sometimes, now I wont get it before this weekend, moore like monday if he dont forget it a second time.... angry face.

  2. #82
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Sweden. Viking Country
    Posts
    44

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    Good news ...... Yesterday I got the sensor Ive been waiting for, and when it was in its place the tc dissapeared by itself, I thought that I had to press the brake and throttle to get rid of the fc ??

    Anyway, its not all perfect. When I was going out on a testdrive a new tc popped up.
    This time it was 34, and I know that it is important to get the new sensor in the same place as the old one. I thought that I was very careful and managed to hit the right spot, but I dont know.

    The code 43 dissapeared after a while, but even though the starting is instant now, I think the engine could work better and not missfire when I give the throttle a kick.
    I think that there is a way to fine tune the ignition, but have no clue on how to do that and hope to get som help here.
    I dont have any special tools or gadgets exept a thingy for checking the vaccum, a stroboscope and possibility to borrow a kit for checking the fuel pressure.

    Please help.

  3. #83
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Sweden. Viking Country
    Posts
    44

    Default Whats wrong with my solenoid

    My solenoid to the wastegate is powerless. I check the power without the solenoid, I get 12v, but when I connect the power to the solenoid, there is zero volt.

    I still dont have any litt on the truck so I could use some advise in what to do and possibly get a hint on where I can find the powersource for the w.solenoid

  4. #84
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Sweden. Viking Country
    Posts
    44

    Default No boost

    Hi again guys. Ive been quiet for a while now, occupied with fixing the problems with the truck.
    Anyway, yesterday a new confusing thing appeared. Ive been out driving around and was going to drive the truck in to the garage. I pressed the throttle to half and nothing happened.
    The rpm did not climb for at least 5 seconds, no pull from the transmission until the rpm started to climb, and then I got all of it and had to push the brakes down.

    It took me 4-5 tryes just to get the truck in the garage without smashing throu the other wall.
    It seems to be something wrong with the turbo. The theory is that the turbo dont spin as fast as it should and therefore acting as a plug for the exhaust.

    I have a turboboost instrument on the dash, and when I rev the engine the boost needle goes to minus instead of plus, and instead of making a overpressure in the intake, it makes a underpressure and starve the engine for air.

    When I remove the turbo and installed the air filter and exhaust housing like on a ordinaire suction engine, the car worked better than it even did with the turbo before this latest problem.

    I removed the turbo and picked it apart, just to find, nothing.

    As far as anyone can se and feel, there is nothing wrong with the turbo, but what is wrong then ??
    As you can see, It is a weard problem and I need som help from you guys.

  5. #85
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Newberg Oregon
    Posts
    12,282

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    Reving the engine will not make boost as the flow of hot gas is very limited.

    The engine must be UNDER LOAD to make boost.

    Make sure the turbine wheel is free to turn.

    Remove the air inlet hose on the turbo and make sure turbine spins freely.

    Even if the turbo was stuck it will not cause the symptoms you describe.

    The engine RPM should react to the throttle regardless of what the turbo is doing.

    Do you have any CHECK ENGINE CODES...OR SERVICE THROTTLE SOON LIGHT
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  6. #86
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Sweden. Viking Country
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    Default Robyn

    Quote Originally Posted by Robyn View Post
    Reving the engine will not make boost as the flow of hot gas is very limited.

    The engine must be UNDER LOAD to make boost.
    Ok makes sense, but previously revings without load moved the needle up on the plusside of the boost meter.


    Make sure the turbine wheel is free to turn.
    It is very free.


    Remove the air inlet hose on the turbo and make sure turbine spins freely.
    Done, and it is spinning freely, without the usual spinning turbo sound though.


    Even if the turbo was stuck it will not cause the symptoms you describe.

    The engine RPM should react to the throttle regardless of what the turbo is doing.
    Yes, my hypothesis was that a stuck or slow turbo might reduce the flow of exhaust gases, and therefore make the engine slow to rev up. BUT that was just one of my desperate ideas and probably a wrong one to.

    Do you have any CHECK ENGINE CODES...OR SERVICE THROTTLE SOON LIGHT
    Yes, that was the first thing I did, and there was the same as usual, a code 34 thats a non functioning stepper motor on the diesel pump. No throttle service light.

    As I wrote, I took away the turbo and changed the engine to a ordinary suction type with a air filter on the intake, plugged turbo exhaust housing and connected to the ordinary exhaust pipe.
    I then took a drive around the block just to test it, and the truck was driving really nice when it got all the oxygen it needed.
    Thats why the idea that the turbo maybe was slowing down the intake air was borne.

  7. #87
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Wild Steer Butte, Alberta
    Posts
    1

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    Hi Mike. So sorry you are having so many issues with your truck. I have faced many of the same problems as you have, in the 20 years that I have had my two 6.5 diesels. One big plus for me was when I bought the dignostic package from Enghs Motor, right there in Sweden. You can get the laptop computer hookup and download the program, then see all kinds of things going on with your codes and injection pump. After I hooked up my computer, I found out my stepper motor was not working, so I bought one or two parts pumps off Ebay and used the parts to fix mine. You get the shutoff solenoid and the fuel sensor light too. I paid about Can$100 each for the pumps. When my 94 one ton vacuum pump quit working, a diesel mechanic said to move the drive belt from the inside of the pulley, to the outside and it has worked well since then. I also greased the cam inside the pump. I have put several starters on, as well as alternators. Make sure your harmonic balancer is good, with not much flexing of the rubber, or it will break the crank. I have had issues with cracked blocks as well, but fixed that with a Hummvee takeout from Ted's Trucks and Stuff. You might have better luck with yours in the long run. Some over here in Alberta, Canada have gone over 600,000 km with regular service.
    Last edited by Stromsky; 05-10-2019 at 21:50.
    1994 K3500 Chev 6.5 TD, 4L80E, 4:10.
    1994 2500 Chev 6.5 TD Suburban, needs engine and trans work.
    1996 Newmar Mountain Aire motorhome, 8.3 Cummins TD, with 3 cyl.
    Kubota diesel geny.

  8. #88
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Sweden. Viking Country
    Posts
    44

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Stromsky View Post
    Hi Mike. So sorry you are having so many issues with your truck. I have faced many of the same problems as you have, in the 20 years that I have had my two 6.5 diesels. One big plus for me was when I bought the dignostic package from Enghs Motor, right there in Sweden. You can get the laptop computer hookup and download the program, then see all kinds of things going on with your codes and injection pump. After I hooked up my computer, I found out my stepper motor was not working, so I bought one or two parts pumps off Ebay and used the parts to fix mine. You get the shutoff solenoid and the fuel sensor light too. I paid about Can$100 each for the pumps. When my 94 one ton vacuum pump quit working, a diesel mechanic said to move the drive belt from the inside of the pulley, to the outside and it has worked well since then. I also greased the cam inside the pump. I have put several starters on, as well as alternators. Make sure your harmonic balancer is good, with not much flexing of the rubber, or it will break the crank. I have had issues with cracked blocks as well, but fixed that with a Hummvee takeout from Ted's Trucks and Stuff. You might have better luck with yours in the long run. Some over here in Alberta, Canada have gone over 600,000 km with regular service.
    Hi there Canada.
    Yeah, I know about Enghs Motor, there located in circa 80 km from me, and I have there chip i my truck. Ive been thinking of buying the software and cable and I probably need it, but Im not sure that its worth almost $200 for something I maybe use just once.

    Lets split this up so I dont miss anything.
    1.Could you please tell me moore of this belt on the outside thing, and why would I do that ?
    2. Ive been looking for a new stepper motor for my ip but not found any, and since that the axel thats suppose to move doesnt move, Im not sure that it would help anyway.
    3. My harmonic balancer, sealer, and the inner wheel is brand new, but yesterday I discovered that the harmonic balancer is wobbling. When I checked it it seems to being loose in the joint between the rubber and outer ring, so I suppose that its a defect one and I need to change it.
    4. So far Ive spended like $ 2-2,500 in different parts, but Ive killed a lot of codes and the engine works pretty good. Now its everything under the floor left, but thats done in an afternoon.... (not)

  9. #89
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Hodges, SC
    Posts
    7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by FunLight View Post
    Hi there Canada.
    Yeah, I know about Enghs Motor, there located in circa 80 km from me, and I have there chip i my truck. Ive been thinking of buying the software and cable and I probably need it, but Im not sure that its worth almost $200 for something I maybe use just once.

    Lets split this up so I dont miss anything.
    1.Could you please tell me moore of this belt on the outside thing, and why would I do that ?
    2. Ive been looking for a new stepper motor for my ip but not found any, and since that the axel thats suppose to move doesnt move, Im not sure that it would help anyway.
    3. My harmonic balancer, sealer, and the inner wheel is brand new, but yesterday I discovered that the harmonic balancer is wobbling. When I checked it it seems to being loose in the joint between the rubber and outer ring, so I suppose that its a defect one and I need to change it.
    4. So far Ive spended like $ 2-2,500 in different parts, but Ive killed a lot of codes and the engine works pretty good. Now its everything under the floor left, but thats done in an afternoon.... (not)
    If your harmonic balancer is wobbling then you seriously need to change it out as soon as possible. Probably shouldn’t even drive it until it gets changed because it just ain’t worth the risk of a broken crank.
    2000 6.5 Chevrolet K3500 Longbed 4 Door, 4L80E, Turbo Master, Gooseneck Hitch, 300,000 miles original engine

  10. #90
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
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    Sweden. Viking Country
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaryd View Post
    If your harmonic balancer is wobbling then you seriously need to change it out as soon as possible. Probably shouldn’t even drive it until it gets changed because it just ain’t worth the risk of a broken crank.
    The outer ring where the belt rides on my balancer was moving sideways so it started to wobbling. I dont know why it could move at all, but the seller agreed that it must be some kind of fabrication error and changed it without diskussion.

    However, this truck will be my ruin. As soon as I fix one thing the next one pops up right away.
    It have been stalled now and then, but yesterday it decided to give up and the trip home from the store that ordinary takes a couple of minutes was taking 40 minutes. The truck stalled after 5-10 seconds, and would not start again for at least a couple of minutes.

    So, 10 sec drive and two minutes waiting, 10 sec drive and wait again.
    My truck was very cheep during those 40 minutes, so after a serch on the forum I found out that it should be a faulty PMD, and 5 minutes later I had around 400 dollar less on my account, and a new PMD kit was ordered.

    Its amazing what we do for our trucks.

  11. #91
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Martinsville, IN
    Posts
    3,163

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    Don't be confused by the two components mounted on the front end of the crank shaft. One is the harmonic balancer (or torsional damper), the other is the accessory drive pulley.

    The damper is critical. It is mounted closest to the timing cover. These can fail when the rubber damper ring ages.

    The pulley, mounted to the front of the balancer, also has rubber damping. This is to increase belt life. These can fail when the outer rim separates from the rubber. The rim will then rotate relative to the hub. There are spokes with metal snubbers that will continue to drive the belt, but will make a loud racket. Failure of the pulley does not cause any problems for the crankshaft as so many people incorrectly say.

    What you describe is failure of the pulley, not the harmonic balancer.

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