Enthusiast
I am going to be replacing the shoes on my truck, I read a couple post but I am still a little foggy on the axle part. Do you have to take the axles out? It seemed to me in a couple of post that that was not the case. I have never dealt with a full floating rear differential before so any help would be great.
Bbudus
94' GMC K2500HD, Heath chip, -1.94, Turbo-Master, AFE Cold Air Intake, Bosch High Flow Injectors, 3" Exhaust all the way back, 4.5" chrome tip(exhaust sounds sweet), Heath Turbo Down Pipe, Heath Crossover, IssPro gauges, Three Pod Piller, 98' Cooling Mods, DMax Fan, High output water pump, DSG Oil Cooler, Heath PMD kit, Light kit with high output bulbs(very bright...finally)
Newbie
No, you don't. Just adjust the shoes in to clear the ridge on the drum.
I was one who said you had to before, but I have since learned...
Enthusiast
You need to pull the axle and nut and bearing to change them on my truck. I think the Subs are the only ones that you can slide the drums off without pulling the axle shafts
1998 6.5 2500 4X4 dynatrac pro 60, ARB, 35"BFG's
06 D Max Express 5"MBRP EFI live
Enthusiast
On my full-floating 14bolt you have to remove the axles to get the drums off. The drums are retained to the hubs with the wheel studs. To remove the drums you have to remove the hubs. To remove the hubs you have to remove the axles to get to the bearings and the bearing retaining/preload nut. Do a little research and you will find it is not a difficult task but the parts are heavy and the process is time consuming. Good luck, RT
93 C2500HD, ExCab, 6.5TD, 5speed, 3.42's, Isspro gauges, Banks/BD exhaust, DSG Geardrive, GM 8 with Turbomaster boost controller, advanced/turned up pump.
Enthusiast
Yep, I had to remove the axles. Sounds worse than it is. Pretty easy. Unfortunatly for me once the hub and drum were off I found that I had no rear breaks. There was some life left on the shoes but they were cracked, the cylinder was leaking, and the adjuster was rusted and locked to the shoes. There is some ridging on the drum but not bad. That is only the drivers side
So, I am going to replace everything. I had noticed that I had not heard the anti-lock going under hard breaking, now I know why.
Thanks for your replies, they helped.
Bbudus
94' GMC K2500HD, Heath chip, -1.94, Turbo-Master, AFE Cold Air Intake, Bosch High Flow Injectors, 3" Exhaust all the way back, 4.5" chrome tip(exhaust sounds sweet), Heath Turbo Down Pipe, Heath Crossover, IssPro gauges, Three Pod Piller, 98' Cooling Mods, DMax Fan, High output water pump, DSG Oil Cooler, Heath PMD kit, Light kit with high output bulbs(very bright...finally)
Enthusiast
Ok, so I decided I has better check the wheel bearings and cones while I was in there. How in the world do you get the outside retaining ring out Out of the drum?I can get it to compress, but I can't pull it out, I want to throw it but with it's buddy the drum and it's a little heavy.
Any suggestions? Help me before I have a corinary.
Bbudus
94' GMC K2500HD, Heath chip, -1.94, Turbo-Master, AFE Cold Air Intake, Bosch High Flow Injectors, 3" Exhaust all the way back, 4.5" chrome tip(exhaust sounds sweet), Heath Turbo Down Pipe, Heath Crossover, IssPro gauges, Three Pod Piller, 98' Cooling Mods, DMax Fan, High output water pump, DSG Oil Cooler, Heath PMD kit, Light kit with high output bulbs(very bright...finally)
Enthusiast
Hello there, link below is 14 bolt full floater bible by off roading geru Bill Avista!
See: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ble/index.html
99 GMC SUB, 2500, 4x4, 6.5 TD (F) #H32 enhanced blk, Phaser timing set, B&D IC, 3" ATS exh, K&N w/prefilter, 4WD NVG 246, 4L80E kevlar Transgo off road/tow mods/B&M supercooler, 14 FF MagTec w/locker 3.42:1, 9.25" IFS frt/diff 3.42:1 w/ARB locker, AutoMeter Boost & pre-turbo pyro meter, 12,000 lb hydro winch, Warn classic bumper w/brushguard & diesel scoop, Max E-torq Stage 3, hi pop inj, oil bypass sys, on board air comp for front ARB locker & tire inflation, DynaView driving/auto-cornering lts, DZ nerfs, A/T 285/75/16 SilentArmor 3750 lb rated on 3750 lb rated Alcoa, 3 IP drivers 2 r spares.
Enthusiast
Can only speak for my suburban 99 2500, and I do not have to pull axles to remove the drums. Just have to beat them to death.
Dave
99 sub 2500, 326,000mi, 4:10, 265-75-16 rubber, remote Dtech fsd and turbo master from Heath Isspro pyrometer and boost gauge-Kennedy, 1.94 TDCO, 3" custom bent exh.
07 Suburban,08 LMM, Allison 6 speed.
Enthusiast
earlier '90's stuff was like the old days and wheel bearings must be removed as well as hub/axles to remove drum. Later models like '97 or '98 drums slip off while hub,bearings,and axles stay on truck if you desire. That outer bearing/race setup is different isn't it? All the GM 14 bolt 10 1/2 rear ends I've seen use that stlye. Wacky. Good Luck
93 K2500 6.5 NEW VENTURE 5 SP
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