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Thread: Full floater axle brakes? How tough?

  1. #1
    RT Guest

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    Hello All,
    I bought my truck with 118K on it. Now it has 221K on it and I have never serviced the rear brakes. I have removed the little inspection ports on the backing plates several times and there is plenty of brake lining material left on the shoes. I know the rear brakes work as they are touchy first thing in the morning when its raining or real humid and the parking brake works great too. I have also flushed the brake fluid on an annual basis since I got the truck. Lube has been changed twice too. Should I be concerned about the rear brakes? I admit the full-floater HD rear axle intimidates me as I have never taken one apart. What special tools do I need to pull the drums and is there any other tips to pulling one of these axles apart for brake service? Thanks, RT

  2. #2
    MikeC Guest

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    RT,

    Did mine on my 96 Burban about 2 yrs ago. At that time the truck had 95K on it. The brakes were still about 2/3 there when compared to the new shoes. Reason for the brake job was a leaking axle seal. Probably still would not be done as braking was smooth and decent for the year truck.

    My drums were separable from the hub but others seem to have found the pieces to be one. I pulled the axles and the took the bearing nut of to get the hubs loose with the drums but after close inspection the seam was rusty and hard to see.

    Steps, IIRC, are to put the truck on stands, pull wheels and tires, drain diff, pull drums OR pull axles and then remove drums & hubs as one, and then do your brake job.

    If you have done brakes before it should then become apparent for you.

    **NOTE** the 3/4 ton diesels got 1 ton drums and shoes. If you get the parts first get the 3 1/2" x 13" shoes, not the 2 1/2" x 13 some will try to sell you.

    I'm sure others will chime in (and shoot me full of holes) but this should get your info started.

    Mike

  3. #3
    DA BIG ONE Guest

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    All the GM 14 bolt FF info you need to know, and then some!

    http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ble/index.html

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2000
    Location
    Arlington,MA U.S.
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    The 3/4 ton trucks got the 13x2.5 inch wide shoes and the burb got tyhe 13x3.5 inch shoe. The burbs also got the slide off drums and the trucks got the pull the hub type.
    1998 6.5 2500 4X4 dynatrac pro 60, ARB, 35"BFG's
    06 D Max Express 5"MBRP EFI live

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
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    13,576

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    Originally posted by Joey D:
    The 3/4 ton trucks got the 13x2.5 inch wide shoes and the burb got tyhe 13x3.5 inch shoe. The burbs also got the slide off drums and the trucks got the pull the hub type.
    Hmmmm....

    The 2500HD (8600 GVW) should have 3.5" drums. Not sure of the 2500LD (7200 GVW), but could very well have 2.5".
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2000
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    Arlington,MA U.S.
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    My truck has the smaller ones and from looking at the parts computer at the dealer they all do. You would think making one setup would be cheaper to GM but a penny saved is a penny earned.
    1998 6.5 2500 4X4 dynatrac pro 60, ARB, 35"BFG's
    06 D Max Express 5"MBRP EFI live

  7. #7
    NH2112 Guest

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    14-bolt semi-floaters use 13"x3.5" brakes, 14-bolt full-floaters on HD 3/4 tons use 13"x2.5" brakes in my experience. I think 4WD SRW 1-tons use the 2.5" wide brakes too, and duallies use 3.5" wide shoes.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2000
    Location
    Arlington,MA U.S.
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    My 96 3500 sw used the 3.5's and my brothers 97 with the semi floater used the 2.5 in wide.
    This confirms GM used what was in stock at the time
    1998 6.5 2500 4X4 dynatrac pro 60, ARB, 35"BFG's
    06 D Max Express 5"MBRP EFI live

  9. #9
    Hansh Guest

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    Not much harder than a car. Parts are just bigger and heavier, sometimes makes it easier. You don't break those big bolts easily.

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