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Thread: Fuel Leak 6.5 TD HELP

  1. #21
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    Okay guys, I looked at the nipples and the return lines and nothing! I'm going insane! I have attached a photo of the leak and the best I could do about the color. Maybe this helps because if not, I'm taking it to a shop
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #22
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    Holey socks! That's not just a leak. You have a fuel line rupture, somewhere. Likely a line that crosses over the bell housing before it gets to the engine valley area. They can corrode or rub through. The wet starter is a casualty due to the sheer volume, but not where it's coming from. That much fuel flow shouldn't be at all difficult to run down. It's gushing out of somewhere.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  3. #23
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    As Maverick mentioned.."Fuel feed line"

    The fuel line comes up the Drivers side frame rail to the lift pump.... then jumps over to the top of the bell housing and snakes up to the FILTER MANAGER UNIT.

    The lines are steel part way and then have a rubber section that connects to the filter unit.

    Either the rubber part has ruptured or the steel line has rotted through

    What ever the case the line is the pressure line from the lift pump that's leaking that much fuel.

    Trying to get a new factory steel/rubber line in there is a nasty job due to the close proximity of the tranny in the body tunnel.

    Get the Filter off the engine and out of the way...
    Plug the rubber hose that feed it (Fuel delivery) and then run the pump..

    Get some serious light into the area so you can see where the leak is.

    If the rubber has a hole close to the filter nipple area you may be able to simply cut it off and add an extension with a double barb and a fresh piece of hose..

    If the leak is farther down then the easiest plan is to abandon the old line and run a good heavy duty hose from the lift pump up into the engine bay and then to the filter unit...

    Cut off the line about 4 inches in front of the lift pump and then using a brass ferrule type fitting ....attach the fitting and tighten it well.

    Remove the fitting leaving the ferrule in place... Slide the rubber fuel line over the ferrule and clamp with a stainless clamp.


    Tie the new line off well as it ascends up the frame into the engine bay. (Use zip ties)

    Make sure the line does not rub on sharp things or touch the exhaust manifold.

    Once you get the new line connected to the filter... remove the fuel line from the top of the IP and then activate the lift pump.

    Allow fuel pump to purge all air from the line until fuel is air free at the IP fitting (Catch in a coke cup/can or ??)

    Connect and secure line.... good to go....


    Starting should be easy and NO LEAK.
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  4. #24
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    Ok so I know it has been a few weeks but I am looking at redoing the supply line. However, I am having trouble finding it. The drivers side rail has three lines. Obviously one is for the brakes but there are 2 others. Which one is the supply that I need to snip and reroute?

  5. #25
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    The line that connects to the fuel lift pump is the supply. The other fuel line is the return to the tank.
    1985 Blazer 6.2
    2001 GMC 2500HD D/A
    dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com

  6. #26
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    Alright I did the line swap and.... the leak is still there!

  7. #27
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    Don't give up. This will give you great satisfaction when you do find it. You'll also know a lot more about your truck by the time you find it. Is there a possibility there is a leak in the filter housing and it's finding a way to the back of the valley? I don't know. Robyn, DMax? Any more ideas? Hang in there Bully!
    d
    Dave, N9LOV
    Member #242
    Dave's Diesels:
    Sold June, 07 '82 1/2 ton 4X4;340k miles
    '97 2 Dr Tahoe, Intercooled,
    Kennedy ECM, 4" Exhaust
    '02 GMC

  8. #28
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    You swapped the supply line from the tank to the fuel filter? Or swapped another line? What general location are you having a leak?
    '94 GMC 6.5TD K1500 4L80E 2-Door Yukon SLE 221K
    '93 Chevrolet 6.5TD K2500HD NV4500 Std. Cab Longbed 187K
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    Diesel Page Member #2423

  9. #29
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    I swapped the fuel supply line from the lift pump to the Fuel Filter housing. I have also already replaced the Filter Housing with a brand new one. There is no viable leaks on the side around the return lines nor from the top along the back that I can see. It is somewhere over the bell housing. I don't know if there is any sort of gasket or anything back there but I have no idea anymore. I have checked everything that youtubers suggest as well.

  10. #30
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    Have you replaced the rubber water drain line that goes from the filter housing forward to the water drain valve near the front top of the engine.

    That fuel looks to be coming out of the bell housing drain hole.

    If you replaced the fuel delivery hose up from the lift pump on the frame...that takes care of the delivery side.

    What about the fuel hose from the filter to the top of the injection pump ?????

    That much fuel is a huge leak....and there are only a few places that can leak that much.

    Check the drain line to the front and the delivery line to the IP...


    Either one of these hoses can leak into the valley and then run out the weep hole in the rear of the valley...then it drains out on the ground.

    Also check the fuel shut off solenoid on top of the IP...these can leak as well.
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  11. #31
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    All 3 lines going to the fuel filter housing have been replaced. I am able to pick up the housing when it's running and no fuel is leaking from it and it also doesnt look like it's running through the valley wherever it is

  12. #32
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    One last line.

    On the Passenger side under intake is the fuel return line.
    This line runs the full length of the engine.

    The return lines from the injectors and the IP fuel return connect to this line (Steel)

    This is the main fuel return line to the tank

    The steel line connects to a rubber hose that then connects to steel above the bell housing (Much the same as the fuel delivery line you replaced already)

    The fuel return moves a lot of fuel...hence the large leak

    The connection is right behind the oil pump drive unit.
    Likely the hose is cracked.

    There is a hose clamp that holds the hose to the steel tube..

    Never seen one of these leak...very low pressure.

    The steel tube is fastened to the rear intake bolt with a tab...If the hose is not the issue the tab may have broken off the tube...

    See picture
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Robyn; 10-20-2019 at 16:03.
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  13. #33
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    I'm a little puzzled as to how this problem can drag out so long. If it's not leaking in the valley then it pretty much has to be one of the two lines running up over the bell housing. Doesn't it?
    The Constitution needs to be re-read, not re-written!

    If you can't handle Dr. Seuss, how will you handle real life?

    Current oil burners: MB GLK250 BlueTEC, John Deere X758
    New ride: MB GLS450 - most stately
    Gone but not forgotten: '87 F350 7.3, '93 C2500 6.5, '95 K2500 6.5, '06 K2500HD 6.6, '90 MB 350SDL, Kubota 7510

  14. #34
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    He showed a piccy with the fuel drizzling down over the starter..

    Has to be the return line.

    Easy fix...
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  15. #35
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    3 1/2 months and 35 posts later...
    The Constitution needs to be re-read, not re-written!

    If you can't handle Dr. Seuss, how will you handle real life?

    Current oil burners: MB GLK250 BlueTEC, John Deere X758
    New ride: MB GLS450 - most stately
    Gone but not forgotten: '87 F350 7.3, '93 C2500 6.5, '95 K2500 6.5, '06 K2500HD 6.6, '90 MB 350SDL, Kubota 7510

  16. #36
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    This is probably not a vehicle he needs to get by. I know I only get around to working on my "extra" vehicles when all other required jobs are complete. Yea, it's a long time, but I get it! Been there!
    Dave
    Dave, N9LOV
    Member #242
    Dave's Diesels:
    Sold June, 07 '82 1/2 ton 4X4;340k miles
    '97 2 Dr Tahoe, Intercooled,
    Kennedy ECM, 4" Exhaust
    '02 GMC

  17. #37
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    DieselDavy is right. This is not my primary vehicle so it hasnt been that important to fix.

    Along with the fuel leak issue, I have been replacing the entire suspension, removing the bed to grind frame and rust proof it, redoing the entire interior, and I just started grinding under the cab.

    35 posts yes, but a lot of them are saying the same thing twice or that they agree with someone, a few of me saying "still leaking" after trying a suggestion, and me saying I already tried it. Plus, the leak isn't visible except by the puddles underneath it so ive been blindly trying fixes.

    Yes it seems simple, but this is the 9th thing to try along with the other projects within this truck.

    I really appreciate everyone's help and all of the good ideas to try. The weekends are really the only time I get to try and get stuff done on it so I will let you know if it fixes it when I get a chance. THANK YOU ALL!

  18. #38
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    If it's not leaking in the valley then it can only be one of the two lines leading up over the bell housing. Anywhere else is plainly visible, and wouldn't drip off the bell housing. There are two short rubber lines right where the bell housing mates to the engine block. That is where I would look first. If they have already been replaced, then it must be in the hard lines leading up to them.
    Last edited by JohnC; 10-22-2019 at 13:08.
    The Constitution needs to be re-read, not re-written!

    If you can't handle Dr. Seuss, how will you handle real life?

    Current oil burners: MB GLK250 BlueTEC, John Deere X758
    New ride: MB GLS450 - most stately
    Gone but not forgotten: '87 F350 7.3, '93 C2500 6.5, '95 K2500 6.5, '06 K2500HD 6.6, '90 MB 350SDL, Kubota 7510

  19. #39
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    I posted the picture of the steel return line where it makes the 90 degree turn at the rear of the engine aft of the intake.

    The rubber return line comes off the steel line that also comes up the bell housing.

    Your leak has to be from that line.

    Either the rubber hose portion or the line itself.

    That is the only line we have not explored

    From the factory both the lines that come up the rear of the engine pass through a sheet metal clip that fastens to one of the top bell housing bolts.

    This bolt is a stud top with a locking type nut that holds the hoses secure.

    Many times over the passing years the tranny gets yanked out/engine removed.....and depending on the mechanics tending to details the hose retainer gets left off..

    These can be/are A PITA to deal with and are often left off.

    Left loose these hoses can and will chafe on the bell housing...

    Heat and time will also result in the hoses cracking and degrading....hence the leak...
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
    (1) 1997 Astro
    (1) 2005 Suburban (Papa Smurf)
    THIS IS BOW TIE COUNTRY

  20. #40
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    We were wrong! It is not fuel! So I replaced all of the lines and it changed nothing. So I said screw it and continued the restoring efforts of the truck. As I was in the process of upgrading the cooling system, I had to take off the radiator. As soon as I took off the first hose, the leak started all on its own. As in me taking off the hose introduced air into the system and let it leak out! Now to trace those lines and see what is going on. Sorry it has been so long, I have had a tough time finding time to work on the truck.

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