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2500HD/3500 HD Trucks & Drivetrain Discussion Forum for the 2001 & newer 2500HD/3500 Trucks, Transmissions & Drivetrain |
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#1
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I have a 2009 Chevy 2500HD 4X4 that is an occasional driver, now used mostly for towing either my 5th wheels or boat. I had noticed last year while towing that it was taking me longer to stop than in the past. I also noticed that without a trailer it was taking me longer to stop. I did a complete brake job with new rotors and pads, flushed the brake fluid and re-bled - no difference. Checked the system and no leaks viable an no puddles anywhere.
I decided to purchase a high performance brake kit from Summit thinking that would help the problem. $500 dollars later no difference in braking. Looking for any ideas anyone has as to where to look next.
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2009 Chevy 2500HD Duramax/Allison Crew Cab Long Box |
#2
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What you describe doesn't sound like "brake fade". Brake fade happens when the service brakes are heated excessively due to continued heavy use, such as descending a grade, causing them to be gradually less effective. This is a normal condition, often predictable, and is avoided by experienced drivers.
When you say "takes longer to stop", do you mean braking distance is increased, relative to brake pedal pressure? What happens with full brake application when slowing (standing on the pedal, fully to the floor)? Does the ABS activate? How many full brake applications remain after the engine is shut off? The hydroboost and/or power steering system(s) may be weakening. Causes, in no specific order, may include low pump output pressure, failed/contaminated power steering fluid, a failed hydroboost unit. A failed proportioning valve may also be preventing sufficient fluid pressure to the rear brakes, but appears much less common on late model trucks.
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1985 Blazer 6.2 2001 GMC 2500HD D/A 2014 Chevy Cruze Diesel - Fabulous car, no problems at all, but sold Nov. 2016 @ 55K miles. dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com |
#3
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This happens when either towing or not towing. The pedal seems 'softer' (more travel) than it use to be, even though I have replaced disk and pads and flushed and re-bled the brakes. Braking distance is increased and it takes more pressure on the pedal to achieve the same results. I have not stood on the pedal or engaged the ABS so I cannot comment on that. I have not checked how many brake applications can be applied after the engine is shut off. I assume you mean pressing the pedal until it gets too hard to push.
Question: what does the power steering pump have to do with it (dummy question)?
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2009 Chevy 2500HD Duramax/Allison Crew Cab Long Box |
#4
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The 2010 and prior model brakes just do not inspire confidence. 2011+ got larger rotors etc. They have also taken the slack/slop/sponginess out of the pedal. Possibly related to the stabiltrak system?
One suggestion that I can make that will not break the bank is Hawk Super Duty Ferrocarbon pads. I put a set of these on a F250 and it really stops nice yet predictable. Have not yet tried the GM application. Stay away from the fancy ceramic stuff. Make sure the caliper pistons and slides work freely. When the brakes are working well with nice aggressive pads you should be able to get the ABS to activate/chatter a bit under exceptionally hard stops at highway speeds. I should also note that I did a Duraburb with EBC Orange stuff and they worked exceptionally well, but are VERY expensive.
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Kennedy Diesel-owner More than just a salesman-I use and test the products that I sell on a daily basis! Superflow Lie Detector in house 2002 Chev K2500HD D/A CC Long LT 11.77@ 124mph at 7700# fuel only-e.t. needs help 2005 Chev K3500SRW D/A CC Long LT(SOLD) 2007 Chev K2500 Classic EC Short LT (Sold) 2012 GMC K3500SRW D/A CC Long LTZ Happy Birthday to me! Built 1 working day after my birthday and delivered 7 days later. 2016 GMC K3500SRW D/A CC short LTZ Custom tuning in house using EFI Live tuning software! |
#5
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Casey
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1995 K1500 Tahoe 2 door, 6.5LTD, NP241, 4L80E, 3.42's, 285/75R16 BFG K02's; Kennedy OPS harness, gauges, and TD-Max chip; Dtech FSD on FSD Cooler; vacuum pump deleted, Turbo Master, 3.5" Kennedy exhaust, F code intake, '97 air box; dual t/stats, HO water pump, Champion radiator; Racor fuel filter; 352K miles and running strong! |
#6
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ABS engagement should vibrate/pulse the pedal, but should not push it back toward you at steady foot pressure. If it does, the hydroboost unit has failed. Quote:
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1985 Blazer 6.2 2001 GMC 2500HD D/A 2014 Chevy Cruze Diesel - Fabulous car, no problems at all, but sold Nov. 2016 @ 55K miles. dmaxmaverick@thedieselpage.com |
#7
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Were the brakes bled using a computer to activate the ABS module during bleeding? If not, my money is on an air bubble or equivalent in the lines that normal bleeding didn't touch.
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'85 Mercedes Benz 300D, for when I want to be stately. '05 Mercedes E320 CDI, for when I want to be even statelier. '05 Chevy K2500 ext cab long box DMax: Everything my '03 was and so much more! There's no point being a pessimist - it wouldn't work anyway. |
#8
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Thank you for all the replies. I did check it over again last night and I did notice some wetness around the place where the brake arm passes through the file wall. No puddling, but there is a fair size ring of wetness around it. The PS pump fluid was down slightly. I was not able to drive it to see if the ABS engaged during a 'heavy footed' stop.
rapidoxidationman: No the brakes were not bled using a computer to activate ABS. Wasn't aware that was needed. The behavior of the brakes was the same after bleeding as it was before though.
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2009 Chevy 2500HD Duramax/Allison Crew Cab Long Box |
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