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Thread: Radiator: OEM or All Aluminum?

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
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    Granby, Missouri, USA
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    Default Radiator: OEM or All Aluminum?

    It's time to for some maintenance and upgrades on my 1995 Tahoe. After 330,000 miles, I'm sure the radiator could stand to be replaced to help improve cooling before a long road trip this summer.

    Which will offer the best cooling performance? Stock OEM-style aluminum/plastic combo, or aftermarket all-aluminum? Or is the only benefit a more rugged construction?

    I found this 3-row all aluminum radiator online:

    https://www.radiatorexpress.com/prod...aia_id=1053425

    I currently have the dual thermostat housing installed, but will also be finally installing the HO water pump.

    Any other recommendations?

    Casey
    1995 K1500 Tahoe 2 door, 6.5LTD, 4L80E, NP241, 3.42's, 285/75R16 BFG K02's; 1997 506 block; Kennedy OPS harness, gauges, Quick Heat plugs, and TD-Max chip; Dtech FSD on FSD Cooler; vacuum pump deleted, HX35 turbo, Turbo Master, 3.5" Kennedy exhaust, F code intake; dual t/stats, HO water pump, Champion radiator; Racor fuel filter

  2. #2
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    Newberg Oregon
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    VISTEON makes a stock OEM type replacement that is very good.

    MANY of the replacement units have an EPOXIED core (Tubes are set in the head plates with epoxy) and these are crap.

    The Visteon has aluminum brazed tubes with the crimped on plastic tanks.

    These are as good as OEM.

    Getting an all aluminum unit is not a bad deal.
    (1) 1995 Suburban 2500 4x4
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  3. #3
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    Pauline, SC
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    A all aluminum that has a thermal dispersant coating would be the best, I do have a thermal dispersant coating that doesn't require oven curing also.

    The thermal dispersant provides 30% more cooling over bare aluminum or metal and that's been proven.

    I have a few radiators on the way to me now for coating produced by Champion Cooling inc, https://www.championcooling.com/

    We are in the process of coating & testing/proving the coatings, they offer a nice solid aluminum for a good price.
    1993 Chevy K3500

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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2000
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    Montana
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    The OEM aluminum radiators with plastic end-tanks can be serviced. The end tanks can be removed, the core cleaned and then new end-tanks re-installed (the plastic gets brittle with time and heat). Scott Boelman, an early author here had this done on his 1994 6.5TD. There were several inches of sediment in the bottom of each tank.

    Following a thorough flush, I recommend switching to Dex-Cool if your vehicle is pre-1996 (1996 and post got Dex). Dex is a lifetime coolant. The inside of a 16 year old cooling system still looked like new when I replaced the water pump in my 2001 Duramax.

    Dr. Lee switched the green coolant to Dex in his 1984 and I switched my 6.5TD Power Project as well. Both had an all brass/copper/soldered radiator. The 6.5PP ran to +300K miles while we had it without a cooling system service - on the original water pump.

  5. #5
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    Feeniks, Aridzona
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    2 fat rows cools better than 3 or 4 narrow rows.

    Copper/brass cools better than aluminum, but only if fins are brazed to tubes and not soldered with lead.

    Aluminum with 2 fat rows and brazed fins will outcool an old school 4 core brass/copper, but a 2 fat row brazed copper will outcool the aluminum.

    Confused yet?

    Get an aluminum with 2 fat rows that is brazed and not epoxied and don't worry about plastic or aluminum tanks and you will be happy.
    1987 Jeep Grand Wagoneer...new 6.5 in process...diamond block, 18:1's, other goodies...


  6. #6
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    Oct 2001
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeepSJ View Post

    Get an aluminum with 2 fat rows that is brazed and not epoxied and don't worry about plastic or aluminum tanks and you will be happy.

    This one and the one sctrailrider linked to are both 3-row aluminum:

    https://www.radiatorexpress.com/prod...aia_id=1053425

    Thoughts on that particular product?

    Casey
    1995 K1500 Tahoe 2 door, 6.5LTD, 4L80E, NP241, 3.42's, 285/75R16 BFG K02's; 1997 506 block; Kennedy OPS harness, gauges, Quick Heat plugs, and TD-Max chip; Dtech FSD on FSD Cooler; vacuum pump deleted, HX35 turbo, Turbo Master, 3.5" Kennedy exhaust, F code intake; dual t/stats, HO water pump, Champion radiator; Racor fuel filter

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by More Power View Post
    The OEM aluminum radiators with plastic end-tanks can be serviced. The end tanks can be removed, the core cleaned and then new end-tanks re-installed (the plastic gets brittle with time and heat). Scott Boelman, an early author here had this done on his 1994 6.5TD. There were several inches of sediment in the bottom of each tank.
    I would normally go this route, as that is what I have done with previous vehicles, but I am not aware of any radiator shops left in my area. They have all closed up shop.

    I've actually run Fleet Charge in my rigs for quite some time now. It's an over-the-road diesel coolant used in fleet vehicles. It's pink, for what it's worth.

    Casey
    1995 K1500 Tahoe 2 door, 6.5LTD, 4L80E, NP241, 3.42's, 285/75R16 BFG K02's; 1997 506 block; Kennedy OPS harness, gauges, Quick Heat plugs, and TD-Max chip; Dtech FSD on FSD Cooler; vacuum pump deleted, HX35 turbo, Turbo Master, 3.5" Kennedy exhaust, F code intake; dual t/stats, HO water pump, Champion radiator; Racor fuel filter

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