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Thread: C to J Intake

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    47

    Default C to J Intake

    Good morning/afternoon/evening fellow members. I need a gentle nudge in the right direction yet again.

    I have searched TDP for swap information on my intake. So far I have acquired enough information to become very dangerous to my engine. I am planning on swapping the “C” intake from my truck (signature below) for a 1982 “J” dual plane intake acquired from a fellow TDP member. The intake is in transit and the 1981-93 Fel-Pro J code gasket is coming from Summit Racing. I will power wash the engine prior to disassembly and take off the 16 bolts holding down the intake per the DP Trouble shooting Guide, squirt and scrape the old gasket (after covering up any open holes), put on the new gasket, seat the “J” intake, and tighten down the 16 bolts in the order outlined in TDP R&R guide. The EGR will be attached to the old intake so it’s gone at that point. I read about EGR solenoids (plural) and was wondering where they were located and proper removal. In addition, the EPR valve located on the driver’s side exhaust needs to be open. How do I verify this? If I have to remove it, could I just block the area off?

    My goal is to strip this fine machine down to its basic elements. Keep It Simple Stupid.

    In addition, I put about 600lb of river rocks in the bed last night and the truck had more power than when I drive it empty. I believe I like this diesel thing. Fuel is now up to $3.49 while supreme gasoline was at $2.89

    Haus.
    1984 C1500 6.2L N/A "J", 60G's, Standyne FM100 Fuel Filter with manual priming pump, Dr. Lee Battery Terminal's, TH700R4, rear axle 3.08, MT28 Starter (12/07), custom 3" single exhaust w/ flow through muffler (04/08).
    "Here Daddy, wear this..."CLICK' and the rest is history.

    If it sounds like a bag of ball peen hammers, I want it!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2000
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    11,382

    Default

    No sealants are used on the intake gaskets, so they should come off without a lot of scraping. Stuffing rags into each intake runner would be a good idea if you'll be doing more work with the intake removed.

    With dual exhaust, you may need to install an exhaust crossover pipe close the engine, to balance the exhaust pulses leaving the engine. This is important for both power and a reduction in noise, and any exhaust shop could do it for you. The old "C" intake contained an exhaust flowpath through it - side to side for the EGR operation, which acts like a exhaust balance pipe. Without it, you'll likely need to add an exhaust crossover pipe to maintain power and reduce exhaust noise.

    The EPR (Exhaust Pressure Regulator) valve located below the driver's side exhaust manifold is spring-loaded in the open position, so without vacuum, it'll stay open. You can leave it or remove it (knock the butterfly valve out) for a little better flow. 6.2 owners have done it both ways.

    Incidentally, some 6.2 owners have tossed the driver's side exhaust manifold entirely, and in its place installed a 6.5TD driver's side manifold. It looks like a mirror image of the one you have now on the passenger side. It flows better and makes it a little easier to attach a free-flowing exhaust system on that side.

    Good luck!

    Jim

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    47

    Default Parts in transit.

    Another quick response with much needed information. Thank you

    The "new to me" intake couldn't look better. I am waiting on the Fel-Pro gasket from Summit and warmer weather.

    I found out when I purchased the truck that I would need a new radiator and plans were in the works for this spring...it rained a beautiful white plume of anti-freeze Saturday and I am now the proud new owner of a NAPA 1,000,000 mile radiator, just sitting on my bench seat waiting to be installed. I bet hauling river rocks helped shake loose some of the bloom that held the original radiator together. While I was in there taking stuff out, I decided to change out the thermostat so I snapped bolt #1 off the coolant crossover and bolt #2 went flying when the housing snapped into three pieces. New thermostat-meet busted crossover that is now out of production. Trouble? Nope, just another day in paradise.

    More fun times to come when the gasket gets here.

    Haus.
    1984 C1500 6.2L N/A "J", 60G's, Standyne FM100 Fuel Filter with manual priming pump, Dr. Lee Battery Terminal's, TH700R4, rear axle 3.08, MT28 Starter (12/07), custom 3" single exhaust w/ flow through muffler (04/08).
    "Here Daddy, wear this..."CLICK' and the rest is history.

    If it sounds like a bag of ball peen hammers, I want it!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    47

    Default Help with 16th bolt on the crossover.

    It's rally time for the intake. I have 15 of the 16 bolts removed and can't figure out how to get to the 16th one. I bet it's some kind of specialty tool but I need some guidance on how to get to the bolt. It is the one on the back left underneath the vacuum pod. I removed two bolts (on the pod itself) thinking that I could manipulate it out of the way but all it did was jam things up even worse. Help please...

    Haus.
    1984 C1500 6.2L N/A "J", 60G's, Standyne FM100 Fuel Filter with manual priming pump, Dr. Lee Battery Terminal's, TH700R4, rear axle 3.08, MT28 Starter (12/07), custom 3" single exhaust w/ flow through muffler (04/08).
    "Here Daddy, wear this..."CLICK' and the rest is history.

    If it sounds like a bag of ball peen hammers, I want it!

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