AMG/GEP 6.5 blocks

[Kennedy]

Best of luck, but knowing the source you'll need it. Be sure the installer gives you good warranty. For just short of $6k including round trip freight you can have the real deal brand new long block.

There is just SOOO much crap out there these days it really makes a guy question involvement in the 6.5 any more.

I just sold one of our 6.5's to a guy who shortly after installing blew his top claiming the engine was junk and knocked. Come to find out he had Ebay "marine" injectors form a whorehouse in FL. That pretty much summed up the REAL issue...

[THEFERMANATOR]

I just sold one of our 6.5's to a guy who shortly after installing blew his top claiming the engine was junk and knocked. Come to find out he had Ebay "marine" injectors form a whorehouse in FL. That pretty much summed up the REAL issue...

And said shop ALWAYS blames the engine and says they NEVER have problems with there products.

[pwood]

Hello my 1884 k5 6.2 N/A 700r is dying. I can get a 599 6.5 N/A long block here in Australia for $8500 or a 6.5 N/A optimizer 2010 shipped from USA for $6800, very expensive to play here.

Will the optimizer transplant be able to use my DB2 pump, C code injectors, J code manifold, exhaust manifold, and will this set up produce the excellent fuel
economy that my 6.2 did, diesel cost $1.50 lt here. Chasing fuel economy, but i imagine with the same fuel flow rate, it would have more power, fresh motor an all.

[Robyn]

The DB2 pump will fit fine.

You may run into a slight issue with the injector lines.

The old 6.2 engines used a slightly different angle on the injectors and the fuel lines area tad different length.

If you use a set of lines from a 92-93 6.5 that had the DB2 pump, your good to go.

The later 6.2's used the fine thread injectors, just be sure yours are the shorter ones.

Other than that, you can use all your 6.2 accessories.

If the engine comes with a water pump, be aware, the 6.5 water pumps are designed to be used with the serp belt and turn opposite direction from the 6.2 v belt drive pumps

The intake and all that stuff will bolt right on. Same with the exhaust manifolds.
Water crossover will fit too.

Be aware that the later 6.5 stuff (AMG) have metric bellhousing bolts.
The GM part number on the bolts is 15724226 get 6 or 7 of them (a spare is nice) These have a stud top but can be used in all six locations.

These are very close to the 3/8-16 bolts that were used on the earlier engines and will fit the tranny holes fine.

The bolts in the side of the block where the motor mounts bolt on are also metric on the new blocks. Those you can likely get locally.

Your starter and the "tail hook" will all fit.

The new blocks have a couple extra oil pressure taps. One up front on the RH side for the turbo and one in the valley under the intake and one in the rear of the block thatis in the normal location for the Oil pressure switch.

The oil cooler ports are 1/2" pipe thread instead of the 3/8" pipe thread.

You can use the little 3/8 to 1/2 "Thin" adapters to allow your fittings to work. Or, if you have a remote cooler thats plumbed in with braided hose and JIC fitings just use the fittings with the 1/2' pipe thread.

Your vacuum pump/oil pump drive will work fine from the old engine.

Depending, the RH valve cover may have a CDR port.

You can just plug it and use yor original Oil filler tube and CDR from the old engine. (Breather)

The air filter will work too.


Pretty much a bolt in part for part swap (Almost)

The issues with the injector lines is going to be the same with the 599 engine too.

Now power will be good, the mileage may fall of a little bit due to the AMG engines having larger precup/ports

With a good set of C injectors and the IP set up well, it should do fine for ya.

Good luck and if we can add anything else, just let us know

Missy

[Robyn]

The DB2 pump will fit fine.

You may run into a slight issue with the injector lines.

The old 6.2 engines used a slightly different angle on the injectors and the fuel lines area tad different length.

If you use a set of lines from a 92-93 6.5 that had the DB2 pump, your good to go.

The later 6.2's used the fine thread injectors, just be sure yours are the shorter ones.

Other than that, you can use all your 6.2 accessories.

If the engine comes with a water pump, be aware, the 6.5 water pumps are designed to be used with the serp belt and turn opposite direction from the 6.2 v belt drive pumps

The intake and all that stuff will bolt right on. Same with the exhaust manifolds.
Water crossover will fit too.

Be aware that the later 6.5 stuff (AMG) have metric bellhousing bolts.
The GM part number on the bolts is 15724226 get 6 or 7 of them (a spare is nice) These have a stud top but can be used in all six locations.

These are very close to the 3/8-16 bolts that were used on the earlier engines and will fit the tranny holes fine.

The bolts in the side of the block where the motor mounts bolt on are also metric on the new blocks. Those you can likely get locally.

Your starter and the "tail hook" will all fit.

The new blocks have a couple extra oil pressure taps. One up front on the RH side for the turbo and one in the valley under the intake and one in the rear of the block thatis in the normal location for the Oil pressure switch.

The oil cooler ports are 1/2" pipe thread instead of the 3/8" pipe thread.

You can use the little 3/8 to 1/2 "Thin" adapters to allow your fittings to work. Or, if you have a remote cooler thats plumbed in with braided hose and JIC fitings just use the fittings with the 1/2' pipe thread.

Your vacuum pump/oil pump drive will work fine from the old engine.

Depending, the RH valve cover may have a CDR port.

You can just plug it and use yor original Oil filler tube and CDR from the old engine. (Breather)

The air filter will work too.


Pretty much a bolt in part for part swap (Almost)

The issues with the injector lines is going to be the same with the 599 engine too.

Now power will be good, the mileage may fall of a little bit due to the AMG engines having larger precup/ports

With a good set of C injectors and the IP set up well, it should do fine for ya.

Good luck and if we can add anything else, just let us know

Missy

[JohnC]

You can use the little 3/8 to 1/2 "Thin" adapters to allow your fittings to work.

The late engines have a higher capacity oil pump to accommodate the oil cooler nozzles for the pistons. Because of the way the oil cooler is plumbed, I would recommend you go with 1/2" fittings and lines all the way to accommodate the additional flow. The oil cooler bypass is a pressure relief, not a temperature control, and less capacity at the cooler translates into a permanent restriction in the oil system. You may even want to consider a cooler with bigger fittings, too.

[Robyn]

Interestingly enough, all the internal passages of the block are the same size as the early squirt blocks with the 3/8" pipe threaded ports.

My 95 truck had a 96 squirt block (early 506) and it had the 3/8 ports.

As soon as you go into the block past the fitting, the passages are the same as the early ones.

The cooler bypass and the filter bypass are the same on all the blocks as are the inner passage plugs.

The whole cooler plumbing change is a bit of an enigma, as the block is still the narrow point.

I have seen several of the late blocks hooked up with the early coolers and using the early style lines with no ill effects.

If you have the option to use a cooler with larger ports, I would do it.

My fresh AMG Block for the DaHooooley is getting the early lines and fittings as I already bought new ones prior to getting the late block.

I am thinking that in very cold climates where the oil can get like MUD, that the larger cooler/lines would be better.

I ran a high cap oil pump on a none squirt block for a year with no apparent adverse effects. Just makes a BUTTLOAD of oil pressure.

80 PSI down the road and Idles at 40 hot.

Other than in Cold weather, it was great. In low temps the pressure would peg the gauge.

IMHO in a moderate climate, I would not worry at all.