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  #11  
Old 10-06-2019, 06:51 AM
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I agree on the injectors.

Old injectors lose several things over time/miles

Pop pressure drops as does the quality of the spray pattern.

Likely you have some injectors that are popping at way too low of a pressure and are squirting a pee stream instead of a nice fine mist in a cone pattern.

Give JOHN KENNEDY A SHOUT


What I do is have a local shop that does topnotch work build me a set, and on an older rig I usually set the pop pressure towards the lower end of spec to avoid issues that can arise from an injector pump that has seen many miles and it's pressure ability may be a tad lower than optimal..

This CAN help with hot no start issues due to internal leaks in the plungers.

STAY AWAY from ebay on this stuff....

Good luck
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  #12  
Old 10-07-2019, 09:38 PM
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Hey thanks for all the help and advice!

I put in a set of Delphi injectors and . . . WOW!

I must have really needed them because the truck runs so much smoother and seems much more responsive.

Actually, I put in seven of them. The last one, on the driver's side by the firewall, I couldn't get to with my socket because the shift linkage is in the way.

Is there any trick to doing that that doesn't involve removing the shift linkage?
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  #13  
Old 10-08-2019, 06:57 AM
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Missy Good Wench ( Moderator)
 
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Did you try moving the selector to the low position or ??? to get the arm out of the way ?????


I do't remember having any issues with these.

LARGE BOX END WRENCH ???
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  #14  
Old 10-08-2019, 08:05 AM
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Lol,

After I wrote the last post it occurred to me that I should try that! I guess sometimes it's easy to overlook the obvious when you're in the middle of something.
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  #15  
Old 10-08-2019, 08:14 AM
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Missy Good Wench ( Moderator)
 
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OK

We will assume then that you got the last one out OK ???
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  #16  
Old 10-08-2019, 10:43 AM
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Not yet, but I went out and looked under there with the shift lever pulled down and yes, I'll be able to get that out no problem.

Now, after having put in the 7 new injectors performance is great. No smoke on overnight cold start at all.

BUT . . . the was a truckload of air in the IP return line this morning. Started right up though, no problem, no sputtering or stumbling. But the air was there. Hmmmmm . . .

I torqued the injectors to 50lb's. I guess I'll go back through and redo the fuel lines. Maybe I didn't tighten one or all of them enough.
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  #17  
Old 10-09-2019, 03:29 AM
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If the driveability is good, it is likely that the bubbles are from the return side. With the age of the vehicle and replacing the injectors, I'd check the return lines at the injectors and replace them if necessary.
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  #18  
Old 10-09-2019, 12:14 PM
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Thanks!

When I did the injectors I also put in all new return lines sheathed in cloth of some kind (fancy!)

I'll check the fitment on those too.
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  #19  
Old 10-09-2019, 12:35 PM
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If the return lines are leaking air in, they will certainly leak fuel out. It takes a bit of running to purge all the air out of the injectors and return circuit, but it shouldn't be much (essentially the amount of air in the lines), and it shouldn't take too long. If the engine was ran only minutes to an hour, there may still be air in the return from the injector and return line replacement. Otherwise, air coming out of the IP, is air that got into it. If you have no external fuel leaks, and the lift pump is working and healthy, then look for a leak between the lift pump and tank sender unit, or the sender unit itself.

The mechanical fuel lift pump has a weep hole at the bottom of the pod. When the pump fails, it will leak fuel from there. If fuel is leaking from the weep hole, the pump has failed due to the ruptured diaphragm. This is often misdiagnosed as a loose line at the pump (and folks overtighten the nut until it strips or breaks). If it has failed, it may still pump enough fuel to keep an engine running well, at least for the moment, but may also allow air into the system (the fuel leaking out is traded for air leaking in).
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