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Duramax 6600 Welcome to the Internet's first Duramax 6600 diesel discussion forum for the LB7, LLY, LBZ, LMM, LML, LGH & L5P RPO code engines. Tips on performance, fuel economy, troubleshooting and more.

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  #21  
Old 12-30-2011, 10:35 AM
Kennedy Kennedy is offline
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Default Clean Slate

A little late for this but: One point I should have brought up earlier is that I prefer to power wash/degrease the engine thoroughly prior to beginning. Also up in the fender wells as you will be sticking your head up in there frequently. Having a clean engine minimizes the amount of crap that can fall in the engine while open and makes life much easier.

I put a dab of duct tape over the vent disc on the FICM to keep water out and then jet spray warnings are not so much an issue.
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More than just a salesman-I use and test the products that I sell on a daily basis!
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2002 Chev K2500HD D/A CC Long LT 11.77@ 124mph at 7700# fuel only-e.t. needs help
2005 Chev K3500SRW D/A CC Long LT(SOLD)
2007 Chev K2500 Classic EC Short LT (Sold)
2012 GMC K3500SRW D/A CC Long LTZ Happy Birthday to me! Built 1 working day after my birthday and delivered 7 days later.
2016 GMC K3500SRW D/A CC short LTZ

Custom tuning in house using EFI Live tuning software!
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  #22  
Old 12-30-2011, 06:45 PM
rapidoxidationman rapidoxidationman is offline
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A point well taken, and in fact you did mention that in an e-mail or one of your earlier posts to my threads... I suppose the only reason I didn't do so is that a wash would only have cleaned what is visible with a whole engine, and it turns out that there's SO much more to these engines than meets the eye when you open the hood. I'll be spending plenty of time in front of the parts washer prior to reassembly. Picking up a couple of organic vapor cartridges for my respirator is on the list for tomorrow.

And now to today's writeup. They say the third day is the hardest, and today's work tends to reinforce that truism.
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'85 Mercedes Benz 300D, for when I want to be stately.
'05 Mercedes E320 CDI, for when I want to be even statelier.
'05 Chevy K2500 ext cab long box DMax: Everything my '03 was and so much more!

There's no point being a pessimist - it wouldn't work anyway.

Last edited by rapidoxidationman; 12-30-2011 at 07:41 PM.
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  #23  
Old 12-30-2011, 07:01 PM
rapidoxidationman rapidoxidationman is offline
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I spent too much time last night worrying about what to do with the turbocharger. Thank you Mr. Kennedy for telling me in another thread to not remove the turbo - I'm taking it that the intake manifolds can be removed still attached to the head and will test that theory by just removing the center piece of the intake manifold.

I started the day by removing the "unknown" plug from a bracket that is attached to the front of the left fuel rail and dropped it out of the way on the front of the engine.

Pay attention to where the wire harness for this is routed between the water pipe from the back of the engine... That'll likely come in handy when the water pump comes out.

Next out were the left fuel rail to injector hard lines and the fuel rail. Easy stuff:

then the right side fuel injector hard lines and rail, but first the coolant line to the turbo had to come out


along with all the brackets and bolts that hold it in place up to the rubber 90 degree angle

then the hard lines and fuel rail were easily removed. The following pic was taken before I removed the coolant line I talked about above.

and the bracket on the front of the right valve cover

and the glow plug controller bracket bolts were easy to access with the fuel rail out of the way on the back of the left valve cover
__________________
'85 Mercedes Benz 300D, for when I want to be stately.
'05 Mercedes E320 CDI, for when I want to be even statelier.
'05 Chevy K2500 ext cab long box DMax: Everything my '03 was and so much more!

There's no point being a pessimist - it wouldn't work anyway.

Last edited by rapidoxidationman; 12-30-2011 at 07:42 PM.
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  #24  
Old 12-30-2011, 07:22 PM
rapidoxidationman rapidoxidationman is offline
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Then it was time to remove the injectors. Alldata says you have to use a certain tool to remove them (J-46594 if memory serves), but I found that gently prying under the holddown bracket would easily pop the injectors out... Except for #3. I suspect that's where the coolant leak is, cuz that injector is NOT coming loose and I am embarassed to admit I cracked the valve cover in my attempts to remove it. Ya know what? The lower valve cover costs less than the injector removal tool. If I can get the injector out without trashing it I'll still be ahead of the game, and the new cover will be here Thursday. 7 out of 8 ain't bad, and it is the first REAL roadblock I've run into this whole project.

I cracked the valve cover under the steel pad that the injector clamp rests on. It wasn't completely unexpected; I was definitely subjecting the cover to stress forces it was not designed to accomodate...

The injector still needs to come out though. Anybody got suggestions on how to overcome the forces holding it in? I'm suspecting the injector tip is held in place by coke built up from coolant being fried in the cylinder... I may have to pony up the cost for a new injector ($425 at the dealer) if it won't come out gracefully.

Moving on...

I spent the rest of the afternoon getting the exhaust manifolds out of the way. This was not nearly as easy as it should be. The left manifold required the removal of the left exhaust pipe heat shield (still got a 10mm socket dropped somewhere back there, likely sitting on top of the transmission bell housing - I'll find it when I get the heads off) and disconnecting the steering column linkage so I could pull the manifold off the studs. The right manifold was easier, but I had to leave the manifold/head gasket in place because I didn't want to remove the oil dipstick tube. No biggie, just another note on the pages of paper I've got to help me put this engine back into working order.

Tomorrow will be spent doing two things: Cleaning all the parts I've taken off so far, and maybe visiting a tool store to pick up a decent set of 12 point sockets. I had to borrow a 12mm 12 point socket from one of the mechanics at the shop I'm using space from today to get the exhaust manifold/pipe bolts out. I hate borrowing tools... I owe him a rack of snob beer now
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'85 Mercedes Benz 300D, for when I want to be stately.
'05 Mercedes E320 CDI, for when I want to be even statelier.
'05 Chevy K2500 ext cab long box DMax: Everything my '03 was and so much more!

There's no point being a pessimist - it wouldn't work anyway.
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  #25  
Old 12-31-2011, 11:06 AM
NutNbutGMC NutNbutGMC is offline
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Good post. I envy you wrenching guys that know how to tackle these projects.

I often diss a machine from time to time but it's mainly because I can't work on them..

Looks good from here...

Thanks for the pictures and writeup.

.
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  #26  
Old 01-09-2012, 10:14 AM
Kennedy Kennedy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rapidoxidationman View Post
A point well taken, and in fact you did mention that in an e-mail or one of your earlier posts to my threads... I suppose the only reason I didn't do so is that a wash would only have cleaned what is visible with a whole engine, and it turns out that there's SO much more to these engines than meets the eye when you open the hood. I'll be spending plenty of time in front of the parts washer prior to reassembly. Picking up a couple of organic vapor cartridges for my respirator is on the list for tomorrow.
You'd be surprised what a difference a good power washing will do. Warm water and a gun with a short flexible nozzle works best like thay have at most coin ops.

I see you are a glove guy. I've just become one myself. For years I have battled skin issues and tried to glove up when working on rough stuff as my hands would cut easily due to condition. Well i recently had a flare up andwent to a dermatologist. Found out it's the metals that are getting me due to allergic contact dernatitis built up over years of prolonged exposure. Primarily Potassium Dichromate which also can come from leather gloves. Anyhow, it's gotten pretty bad to a point where I need to glove up. I cheated a couple days ago and changed the oil on my tractor w/o gloves. Bad idea...
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Kennedy Diesel-owner
More than just a salesman-I use and test the products that I sell on a daily basis!
Superflow Lie Detector in house
2002 Chev K2500HD D/A CC Long LT 11.77@ 124mph at 7700# fuel only-e.t. needs help
2005 Chev K3500SRW D/A CC Long LT(SOLD)
2007 Chev K2500 Classic EC Short LT (Sold)
2012 GMC K3500SRW D/A CC Long LTZ Happy Birthday to me! Built 1 working day after my birthday and delivered 7 days later.
2016 GMC K3500SRW D/A CC short LTZ

Custom tuning in house using EFI Live tuning software!
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  #27  
Old 01-09-2012, 08:38 PM
rapidoxidationman rapidoxidationman is offline
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I got the truck finished last night and it is home now - not without shaking out a small issue today. Somehow during installation the water pump pipe at the back end of the driver's side lost its O-ring. I'm thinking that somehow between maneuvering it back and forth while connecting it to the water pump the O-ring worked itself loose and now has a new home somewhere in the water jacket. It isn't in the fitting that the pipe slides into, and I'm darn sure not tearing down the whole engine to find it... Of course nobody had one in stock, but Ace Hardware had one that fit (1-7/8" O.D, 1-3/4" I.D.) and the engine is holding water now. Took about 4 hours of wrenching to solve that, plus lots of phone calls and running around to get a $0.94 part.

I've got a couple more days to write up (and I will) but not tonight (I'm enjoying a nice cold Alaskan Amber and trying to chill a bit) or tomorrow (gotta update the Valley of the Tetons Library's 10 year plan with a couple other board members). Before the end of the week, promise.

Kennedy, thank you so much for fielding my questions about removing turbos, testing injectors, initial startups after tearing it down, et al. You were super helpful and the project could not have gone as smoothly without your input. BTW, this was about a 100 glove project and I'm willing to bet had I not changed them 50 times my hands would be hammered.
__________________
'85 Mercedes Benz 300D, for when I want to be stately.
'05 Mercedes E320 CDI, for when I want to be even statelier.
'05 Chevy K2500 ext cab long box DMax: Everything my '03 was and so much more!

There's no point being a pessimist - it wouldn't work anyway.
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  #28  
Old 06-14-2012, 06:55 PM
Kennedy Kennedy is offline
Long Distance Crew Chief for BMDMAX
 
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Loyal WI US
Posts: 10,663
Default

Did I miss something or did you maybe skip a key step in skim cutting the heads?
__________________
Kennedy Diesel-owner
More than just a salesman-I use and test the products that I sell on a daily basis!
Superflow Lie Detector in house
2002 Chev K2500HD D/A CC Long LT 11.77@ 124mph at 7700# fuel only-e.t. needs help
2005 Chev K3500SRW D/A CC Long LT(SOLD)
2007 Chev K2500 Classic EC Short LT (Sold)
2012 GMC K3500SRW D/A CC Long LTZ Happy Birthday to me! Built 1 working day after my birthday and delivered 7 days later.
2016 GMC K3500SRW D/A CC short LTZ

Custom tuning in house using EFI Live tuning software!
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  #29  
Old 06-14-2012, 07:25 PM
rapidoxidationman rapidoxidationman is offline
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The gasket(s) failed after 6 months of use. The biggest load the engine had on it was towing my daughter's subaru on a car hauler for about 500 miles about 2 months ago. Had zero issues until this Tuesday, when the temp spiked for about 10 seconds.

While the heads were removed I had them disassembled and cleaned and flattened with the valves and seats reground as well as installing new valve guides and seals. Extra $700 ish...

I'm kind of at a loss as to what happened; I don't hammer the truck except for the occasional full throttle pass (and usually see about 17-18mpg because of it in the summer).

John, what are your thoughts on reusing those ARP studs? Possibility? Bad idea? Are they made for just that purpose?

I'll be starting the teardown tomorrow
__________________
'85 Mercedes Benz 300D, for when I want to be stately.
'05 Mercedes E320 CDI, for when I want to be even statelier.
'05 Chevy K2500 ext cab long box DMax: Everything my '03 was and so much more!

There's no point being a pessimist - it wouldn't work anyway.
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  #30  
Old 06-14-2012, 07:48 PM
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DmaxMaverick DmaxMaverick is offline
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Arrow

Ah, now I remember....

That was a well documented practice run. Now for the real thing....

Good luck!
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